So, you want a 2.4 in your car.... here's some info.

[TurbododgePirate]

So, you looked at the Hybrid swap, but don't want to do all the fabrication to put a 16V head on a 8V block. It looks like swapping the entire 16V 2.4 would be easier, right? Well... Maybe. Maybe not.

16V non-srt motors.

The 16V block 1997 to 2001 doesn't have a lot of changes. Nice and strong. But, there are some changes you will need to make to it.

The main bearings will have to be changed. The stock 2.4 NA bearings can't stand up to the punishment. You'll need SRT bearings. MAIN BEARING 5012582AA $6.90 (4 REQUIRED)

Rods and pistons: SRT4 rods and pistons and bearings are cheap and you can get the Rings as well. ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED),PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED),RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
Or, you can use a T2 rod form a 2.5L 1989+ Turbo dodge and a custom forged piston. With stock Clevite 77 bearings.

Water and oil pump? Well, there are people out there running the NA oil and water pump with no issues at all. But, you can choose to upgrade. If you do you'll need a SRT oil pump, water pump, hydraulic tensioner and other odds and ends. Want them? Here they are:

Tensionser: 4781570AB
- bolt: 6101763
- bolt: 6506019AA
Water Pump:4884159AA
- bolt: 6503255 (x 4)
Idler Pulley: 04781569AB
Oil Pump Pickup/Screen: 4792304AC
Oil Pan: 4777991AA
Oil Pump: 4777955AA
Oil Pan Gasket: 4777994AA
Oil Filter Connector: 4777998AA
Oil Filter Connector Gasket: 4884000AA
Oil Filter Connector Screw: 6102041AA (x 3)
Front Seal (for oil pump): 4667198

The tensioner upgrade package part number for the PT is 5114069AA. It includes the tensioner, both covers, and some screws. It will make it so you have the plastic covers that cover and protect the timing belt. Cost from Fenton dodge is $127

4884159AA $46.15 SRT4 Water pump
5114072AA $113.30 Complete Tensioner upgrade


The head? Well, the head should be specific to your block, although all DOHC heads from 1997 to 1999 should be basically the same.

The mounts For the passengers side you'll need a special adapter bracket made to place the 2.4 in the 2.0 neon engien compartment. It is made by toomanyneons on www.neons.org. They are $78 Paypal shipped bwsemail@gmail.com See them here http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=169980/
The drivers side depends on the tranny. Currently you can use a TD 413 mount on the neon 413 based tranny as I understand it. The 5 speed neon NVT tranny mount is a work in progress, I'll update when I know more. As is the front motor mount.

Intake Manifolds You can use just about any stock 2.0 or 2.4 intake manifold. My suggestion, Lonewolf Performance.

Transmissions Yes, you can install the cable operated NVT350 1995-1999 neon 5 speed in either 3.55 FD or 3.94 FD. Yes, you can install a TD 520,523,555,568 tranny with some modification. Yes, you can install a srt4 tranny, but you also have to install a hydraulic clutch system.

Axles Stock large splined axles should do to begin with.

Engine management Your choice.


That's all for now folks! ~~Heath

[GLHS592]

Great information!

Rods and pistons: SRT4 rods and pistons and bearings are cheap and you can get the Rings as well. ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED),PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED),RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
Or, you can use a T2 rod form a 2.5L 1989+ Turbo dodge and a custom forged piston. With stock Clevite 77 bearings.

Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.

[TurbododgePirate]

Great information!



Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.

Turbo 2 rods or 1989 and up.

[87csx2.4]

Great information!



Do the rods have to be 1989 and up? What about 1987 and up turbo 2 rods? I thought the turbo rods were all the same after 1986.

Hey how do you get the pic of your car and sig.in your post's.

[Mario]

Is it cheaper to pick up a 2.4 Longblock and modify it for a turbo set-up or would it be cheaper to purchase an SRT-4 2.4 Longblock. I have been seeing quite a few SRT long blocks going for $2,0000.

[GLHSKEN]

Is it cheaper to pick up a 2.4 Longblock and modify it for a turbo set-up or would it be cheaper to purchase an SRT-4 2.4 Longblock. I have been seeing quite a few SRT long blocks going for $2,0000.

I believe the pistons and rods are pretty cheap.. (comparitively) from dodge..

[Dave]

I believe the pistons and rods are pretty cheap.. (comparitively) from dodge..

About $250 for the rods and pistons. I know, I came very, very close to buying them until pops called off the project.

How much are SRT 4 heads going for these days?

Also is what I hear true? That a stock 2.4 head will indeed flow better than a fully ported Steve Menagon 8v head?

Anyways sounds like the 2.4 swaps are fairly cheap.

What kind of engine managment is everybody running?

[altered7151]

Does the early 2.4 head bolt up to a newer (05) block? I have a 97 head here in the garage, and just scored a 8k mile 2.4 short block that needs bearings. If the head would bolt up it save me some time and cash.

[TurbododgePirate]

Does the early 2.4 head bolt up to a newer (05) block? I have a 97 head here in the garage, and just scored a 8k mile 2.4 short block that needs bearings. If the head would bolt up it save me some time and cash.

Bolt up yes, but there are issues when it comes to the oiling passages. The 05 block has a change, not 100% of what it is right now. Plus the exhaust passages are different. Get a newer head 2001+

[altered7151]

Bolt up yes, but there are issues when it comes to the oiling passages. The 05 block has a change, not 100% of what it is right now. Plus the exhaust passages are different. Get a newer head 2001+

Aye Aye captain! Guess I'll keep an eye out for a later model head.

[Dietro]

I smell a sticky coming in this thread's future!

[Frank]

Actually this will be a good FAQ. However lets give it a week for more to come!

[GLHS592]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.

[TurbododgePirate]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.

Sure. To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount. I have heard both. I also understand that you STILL need to space the mount over a bit.

If using a 520/555/523/568, I would assume you could use the stock mount. But I'll let someone who knows answer that if they can. ~~Heath

[GLHS592]

Sure. To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount. I have heard both. I also understand that you STILL need to space the mount over a bit.

If using a 520/555/523/568, I would assume you could use the stock mount. But I'll let someone who knows answer that if they can. ~~Heath

When using a 520/555/523/568, I'm assuming you can use the factory bobble strut and driver's side motor mount. I'd think a front mount could be fabbed up from the 2.4 (motor side) and 2.2 (body side) mounts. Am I thinking right?

I'll go check out the adapter you linked us to. I might have a few questions after that.

[David Bohrer]

Turbododgepirate wroteth:

To my knowledge the $75 adapter is the one we need to fit the motor in a K based, or L body car. Just like a neon. I have yet to determine wether you use a Stratus mount, or a neon mount

That adapter is to be used with the Stratus mount. That is when it is done in a Neon. The even cheaper option is to get a piece of steel 4"x8"x1/4" and bend a 90* 3/4" lip on the short side.Drill all needed holes and Voila'! $2 adapter!

Altered wrote:

Aye Aye captain! Guess I'll keep an eye out for a later model head.

All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:

Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and block on the front drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head I THINK.

Try to stick with 2.4l heads since they have equal head bolt lengths and do not have the shorter outer "four" as seen on the 2.0 DOHC heads-Edit-its the block that causes the need for shorter bolts, not the head-there identical

I have done all of these and have had no ill effects due to the eliminated oil drain.

I am sure I will edit and add to this. But, it is almost a hi-jack and we might need to start another thread on head modifications.

Daveb.

[altered7151]

Turbododgepirate wroteth:

That adapter is to be used with the Stratus mount. That is when it is done in a Neon. The even cheaper option is to get a piece of steel 4"x8"x1/4" and bend a 90* 3/4" lip on the short side.Drill all needed holes and Voila'! $2 adapter!

Altered wrote:

All the 2.0 and 2.4 DOHC heads have the same bolt pattern and will interchange some with mods though.

Here is the general rule of thumb for 2.4 litres:

Pre-2001 heads will bolt up to a pre-2001 block with no issue.

Use of a 2002+ head on a pre-2001 block will require either welding and red-drilling of front oil drain on the cylinder head. OR installing of freeze plugs to the head and block on the front drain to eliminate the passage. A diesel shop will have them. Early Cummins turbo freeze plugs for the head I THINK.

Try to stick with 2.4l heads since they have equal head bolt lengths and do not have the shorter outer "four" as seen on the 2.0 DOHC heads-Edit-its the block that causes the need for shorter bolts, not the head-there identical

I have done all of these and have had no ill effects due to the eliminated oil drain.

I am sure I will edit and add to this. But, it is almost a hi-jack and we might need to start another thread on head modifications.

Daveb.

I think your title should be changed to "Resident 420A Expert" So what of a pre 2001 head on a +2001 block? Same oil passage concern as the late head on early block?

[r00tcause]

Also, you discussed motor mount options in a Neon. Can somebody explain the mounts needed for a K-based or L-based swap with a 520/555/523/568? I've heard conflicting stories.

If you use a 568/etc then you will need to creat an "l bracket" to bolt it to the block because one of the bolts does not line up with the 2.4 As far as mounting it to your car, it would mount like normal. Stock trans mout and bobble strut.

Also, some forget this so I will mention. If you use a 2.4 N/A block you will have to drill an oil return hole for the turbo and you will need to add an oil distribution block. (you can grab one from a td and add it to the backside of the block where there is an oil port)

[TurbododgePirate]

Wow, David Really know his stuff! Thanks for the additions. If this becomes a sticky in the future, do you mind me copying the info?

Thanks everybody for helping fill in the gaps. Hopefully someday soon I'll be able to make a larger more complete post as a permanent sticky. Well.... that and have a running 2.4L car.

[David Bohrer]

Guys I must recant something i said. The 2.0 DOHC and the 2.4 DOHC heads are identical!!!!!! The perimiter four BOLTS are shorter because of the block's construction!

I will manually edit my post.

My apologies for the shortsight.

It won't let me edit!!!!! Bah.

Seven posts to my name and I just branded my self an idiot.


Dave B.

Fixed for you,