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Thread: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

  1. #41
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    you should price a NEW Powermaster-III ABS master cylinder for an '89-'90 Turbo Grand Prix from GM (only place a new one is available). believe me, you would be very happy to pay Prior Reman $600+ after finding out what GM wants for a new one

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  2. #42
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    True enough but I bet the ratio is backyarders, 80%, licensed 20%. Maybe you could take a course on brakes, thats all it would take.
    I've done enough brake jobs w/o issue, I think I'm about as self cetified as you can get, LOL

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  3. #43
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboSedan View Post
    you should price a NEW Powermaster-III ABS master cylinder for an '89-'90 Turbo Grand Prix from GM (only place a new one is available). believe me, you would be very happy to pay Prior Reman $600+ after finding out what GM wants for a new one

    -----------------------------
    Joshua Mitchell
    '91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
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    I used to rebuild them for the saggy brake pedal, we NEVER touched the bores.

    Quote Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance View Post
    I've done enough brake jobs w/o issue, I think I'm about as self cetified as you can get, LOL
    It was aimed at the general public. Some guys shouldn't even pickup a wrench, but they have other skills,
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  4. #44
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    It was aimed at the general public. Some guys shouldn't even pickup a wrench, but they have other skills,
    Gotcha... when you quoyed me and used the word 'you' I didnt see it as a public message

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  5. #45
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    So NEW Cardone = good.

    My '84 SC needs all new components and Cardone seems to be the most widely available and competitive in pricing. Good info, thanks guys.

  6. #46
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    I agree on using a new one. My reman gave out at about 300 miles in the rampage at a stop light. I will never use a reman again. EVER. To much time and money invested to throw it all away in a few seconds.

  7. #47
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    i agree. lost money on doing multiple replacements. damn things just kept leaking fluid. new one worked great first time around.

  8. #48
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Stupid reman MC failed on me last week after 6 months and 5k miles!! Thank god I wasn't in a "must stop" situation or I would be starting a major "for sale" parts thread. Gonna put the new unit on tomorrow.

  9. #49
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Sorry to hear but glad your here to tell the tale.
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  10. #50
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Yep. Remans go without warning. A new one will give hints that it is dying.

    Somebody should contact NTSB about outlawing remans. We can all refer TV stations to this thread and start a campaign.

  11. #51
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    I also have to agree with this thread. Not to mention the countless people who ive lied to actually telling them we dont have the reman mc on hand (napa) without the boss around of course hah.

    As well as the people who dont properly bench bleed them and wonder why its not working right.

  12. #52
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    there still going to do it, its like the morans that think compression fittings are ok for brake lines you can petition all you want but your wasting your breath... people will buy the reman because it available, company will continue selling reman cause there cash cows...

    best we can is take the thread to heart and remember, saving $4.50 isnt worth loosing you life, or you kids life...

    i actually asked an old customer if they would call me when they got on the road so i can stay off. all he wanted to buy was a $2 comp fitting and a $3 piece of brake line... LAZY!!!!

    oh how bout hose and clamps, for a " just to get me home " brake line fix... yeah that wont happen...

  13. #53
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by 22shelby View Post
    oh how bout hose and clamps, for a " just to get me home " brake line fix... yeah that wont happen...
    Im only quoting this one because the other points speak for themselves.

    The first time someone actually asked me for a piece of fuel line and some hose clamps to patch thier brake line I actually laughed and I completely thought they were joking. After looking at them and realized they were serious I was like 'oh for real? Yeah...thats not a good idea. 1. because when you put it on and it works for that little bit to get you home, you'll think its fine and you wont change it until you have a problem. And 2. you have a cool dog and I wouldnt want anything to happen to that little guy.' Seriously I love his dog

  14. #54
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Very interesting thread, and I'm so glad I read all this! Thank you Simon once again. I am restoring an 86 Daytona Turbo Z. I was trained the basics in brakes in my high school votech program. For the first time, now as a teacher myself, I wanted to attempt the brakes, however, I asked a fellow teacher, who's father is a master mechanic, and he grew up working in his father's shop, to help and guide me in the process. THe pedal went almost to the floor. The car had been sitting for several years, so since there was no fluid leaking, we figured a MC would do the trick.
    Now, I don't recall off the top of my head if I bought rebuilt or new---I'd have to pull the receipt. I also replaced one pass side rear wheel cylinder (again not sure if rebuilt or new)
    After having to splice the rear pass line at the wheel cylinder, with proper double flare fittings, I was able to get good brakes.
    I did notice the front calipers were hanging up, but still drivable nonetheless.
    The car sat for another week. Today I went to drive it, and in backing out of the driveway, the pedal went to the floor again. I checked my spliced fitting, and all the wheels, without pulling anything apart--or even taking the wheels off. No fluid that I could see. The fluid in the MC is a little low---like 1/4", but still there. Could this be a bad MC? Could the other wheel cylinder be leaking fluid in the drum and I can't see it? Could bad hanging up calipers do this?

    My teacher friend showed me that we installed the MC, and while I pumped the brake pedal, he would use his fingers over the line openings, to not allow air to suck back in, and said this works just as well as bench bleeding. Is that true?

    Thanks,
    Lee

    ---------- Post added at 05:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:58 PM ----------

    OK, the MC was a new unit, Cardone from Advance Auto. Wheel Cyl was a (Believe to be new) Tru-Torque for just under $10--only option they had at Advance.
    I have a MC from my parts car, should I try that one? Or am I just wasting my time? Money is not an issue, I just want to have a safe vehicle, and I'm not looking to cheap out here at all. Just need advice on doing it right
    THanks,
    Lee

  15. #55
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    if the master cylinder is gone, theres a good chance that oil will be in the vacuum lines.

  16. #56
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Thats an interesting thought. I should also mention I did not bleed the front calipers, because even after much PB blaster, the bleed screw seems too tight and I'm thinking it will sheer off.
    But, I did get two new calipers with the car, so I think I'll just install them, and re-bleed all the brakes, and go from there.

  17. #57
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee'sdaytona View Post
    Thats an interesting thought. I should also mention I did not bleed the front calipers, because even after much PB blaster, the bleed screw seems too tight and I'm thinking it will sheer off.
    But, I did get two new calipers with the car, so I think I'll just install them, and re-bleed all the brakes, and go from there.
    an old trick to help get those stuck bleeders out, is to whack them with a hammer on the top. this will help loosen the bleeder free of rust/corrosion and give you a much better chance at getting it out with out shearing the top off

  18. #58
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    I'll give that a try just for kicks. I will most likely swap out the calipers anyway, since I have new ones sitting in a box that came with the car. But I have nothing to lose, so I'll try it as a learning experience if nothing else.
    -Lee

  19. #59
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    s.u.r,e makes a great bleeder remover tool but if you only do caliper once a year it cheaper to buy reman.just did a abs to rear hose brake line today on a 2001 gm2500hd 4 wheel drive truck if anyone has done that style they really suck . the bleeder won,t no open and i just bled them at the hoses came out good i was suprized, was a oled plow truck and the guy didnot have anymoney lol i hate the plow guys they never have any money to fix there trucks but make sure they charge top dollar when ever they plow. and always want a deal on your work

  20. #60
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Never Buy A Rebuilt Master Cylinder-please!!!!!!!

    If the pedal goes to the floor, the M/C is bad, period,

    Air will cause a mushy pedal but WILL NOT cause the pedal to drop like a rock. I would also replace both wheel cylinders, best to do them in pairs as if one failed, the other isn't far behind.

    My teacher friend showed me that we installed the MC, and while I pumped the brake pedal, he would use his fingers over the line openings, to not allow air to suck back in, and said this works just as well as bench bleeding. Is that true?
    It can but won't be as fast and effective as bench bleeding. I've had some master's literally take an hour or more to bleed.



    Quote Originally Posted by Lee'sdaytona View Post
    Thats an interesting thought. I should also mention I did not bleed the front calipers, because even after much PB blaster, the bleed screw seems too tight and I'm thinking it will sheer off.
    But, I did get two new calipers with the car, so I think I'll just install them, and re-bleed all the brakes, and go from there.
    Unless you introduced a boat load of air, then you'll be fine. We almost never do a 4 wheel bleed when replacing one, as when you properly bleed the M/C on the car, you bleed out the air you've introduced.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

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