91 R/T Rear Axle Alignment Issues

[jckrieger]

Hey guys, I was taking the Auto-X tires off my 91 RT and noticed the rear axle isn't sitting centered under the car. The driver's side hub is pushed in the wheelwell 1" further than the passenger side. Everything under the car appears to be in original shape, so if you guys have any idea if there is an adjustment, please let me know. I wouldn't doubt there could be a factory defect, as my 89 Daytona Shelby had the holes drilled in the wrong places in its original K frame.

If there is no adjustment, does anyone have the short rear track bar for sale? I'm thinking mine could be .5" too short, causing the axle to sit too close to one side. Let me know what you guys think, as I'd like to get the wheels all lined up before I try to get it aligned at a shop.

[turbovanman²]

Is it lowered? if so, thats why.

CSRACER sells adjustable track bars, I also think FWD does also.

[jckrieger]

The car is 100% stock, and the rear springs/suspension parts appear to be in good shape. I'll look into that adjustable track bar.

[BadAssPerformance]

Chris Still's is a nice piece. What os the hole to hole dim on your Clark? I'll go measure my Z.. BRB,...

EDIT: Daytona is 45.5" hole to hole, how long is yours?

[jckrieger]

My R/T and CSX are both about 45 3/8" +/- 1/8". I'm starting to wonder if I have an improperly machined spindle or something.

[BadAssPerformance]

Yeah, something else is F'ed.

Take a few more measurements to compare DS to PS, like trailing arm bushing mount C/L and end of the twist beam (axle) and end of the spindle to the same part, like the floor pan to rocker seam, or top cednter of the wheel well lip.

[jckrieger]

I'll go to town with measurements after the movie tonight and see what is out of spec. I'm betting it's either the bar that goes from the body to the axle, or a spindle/hub problem. I remember the drum and disc spindles are offset about .5" or so..

[turbovanman²]

I'll go to town with measurements after the movie tonight and see what is out of spec. I'm betting it's either the bar that goes from the body to the axle, or a spindle/hub problem. I remember the drum and disc spindles are offset about .5" or so..

There the same, Minivans are longer by 1/2",

[Directconnection]

There the same, Minivans are longer by 1/2",

different year rear axles vary in length. Center of pivot bushing to center of axle (internal swaybar) is 19" on 1990 G and P bodies. 1989 G bodies are 18-1/2"

Axle widths on G bodies are 5/8" wider than P bodies.

But, this isn't his problem.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I don't think the axle width is specific to one car or the other. It's what sway bar you got. If you got a solid big sway bar in the axle then you get a wider track, if you get the puny hollow bar then you get the narrow track. Also you get crappy bushings. Just did a hollow bar to solid bar axle swap today in my new yorker. The bushings in the hollow bar you can flex all over the place with 1 finger. The bushings in the big bar axle are stiffer than Johnny's "Race" rear poly bushings. I know. I have a set I put in my ShelbyZ. Mistake, should of kept the stock ones.

[Directconnection]

I don't think the axle width is specific to one car or the other. It's what sway bar you got. If you got a solid big sway bar in the axle then you get a wider track, if you get the puny hollow bar then you get the narrow track. Also you get crappy bushings. Just did a hollow bar to solid bar axle swap today in my new yorker. The bushings in the hollow bar you can flex all over the place with 1 finger. The bushings in the big bar axle are stiffer than Johnny's "Race" rear poly bushings. I know. I have a set I put in my ShelbyZ. Mistake, should of kept the stock ones.

In my opinion... I think it is body specific when it comes to track width, but you may be on to something about the bushings. I will say, the ones that were in the G-body axle with solid bar are not stiffer than the "street" bushings I got yesterday from polybushings.com. But... they certainly came out much tougher than the ones from my p-body axle.

On the p-body axle... they pressed right out on our shop press with no issue. The g-body ones were a major PITA. I had the inner sleeve completely pressed OUT to the other side and when i released pressure, it came right back. I ended up drilling and then burning them out. Didn't know about Spiva's reccomendation of just heating the outer shell and then pressing them out.

[GLHNSLHT2]

according to my FSM's all the rear tracks are the same for non-lbody cars. Although we know the big sway bar axles are wider. Just like the GLH and SC's got a rear track width increase as well for performance. So I stick to the track width is specific to the type of sway bar you get.

As far as the bushings maybe he stiffend them up. But I tried his street versions and they were like goooo. I have video somewhere. I ripped them out and had him ship me the race versions. They're ok but the rubber one's in my axles are still stiffer than the one's I got. I won't be burning out anymore of the bushings in the big sway bar axle. Although for the little sway bar axles they're a good upgrade.

[turbovanman²]

different year rear axles vary in length. Center of pivot bushing to center of axle (internal swaybar) is 19" on 1990 G and P bodies. 1989 G bodies are 18-1/2"

Axle widths on G bodies are 5/8" wider than P bodies.

But, this isn't his problem.

He said the drum/disc spindles are different, IE 1/2 shorter/longer, there not. They are the same except minivans, which are 1/2" longer,

[jckrieger]

He said the drum/disc spindles are different, IE 1/2 shorter/longer, there not. They are the same except minivans, which are 1/2" longer,

I remember switching hubs/spindles around on my old 83 Shelby Charger and it was either the hub or the spindle that was slightly shorter when comparing the drum/disc parts. If I remember correctly, I tried using a disc outer hub on a drum brake spindle and the drum was shoved up against the backplate when I bolted the wheel on. I can't remember the exact combo, but it was when I was switching my Shelby Charger from vented rear disc brakes to 90 Daytona rear drums.

[turbovanman²]

I remember switching hubs/spindles around on my old 83 Shelby Charger and it was either the hub or the spindle that was slightly shorter when comparing the drum/disc parts. If I remember correctly, I tried using a disc outer hub on a drum brake spindle and the drum was shoved up against the backplate when I bolted the wheel on. I can't remember the exact combo, but it was when I was switching my Shelby Charger from vented rear disc brakes to 90 Daytona rear drums.

Hmmmmmmm, I've matched up disc/drum spindles from around 85 and up and there the same. It could be the hub is different?

[jckrieger]

Hmmmmmmm, I've matched up disc/drum spindles from around 85 and up and there the same. It could be the hub is different?

I think it was the hub now that I think about it. I put the other hub on the car and that's what got everything to line up. There wasn't a large difference, but it was enough to throw things out of alignment.

[turbovanman²]

I think it was the hub now that I think about it. I put the other hub on the car and that's what got everything to line up. There wasn't a large difference, but it was enough to throw things out of alignment.

Well, 1/2 inch is a lot,

[spirit1991]

Just read this thread and my spirit trailing arm is off about an inch to the right. my hubs are original and the same L+R. i swapped the link from car to car and no change. i dont see bent parts. i was thinking of shortening an link by cutting and welding? alignment is also good, just the arm is sitting to the right. go out and check your AA bodies. seems to be an R/T thing as my ES is perfect.

[jckrieger]

Man, this thread is old! I still haven't dug into the rear axle alignment any more on my R/T... I'm just accepting the fact that it's retarded for now.

[spirit1991]

Funny that mine's exactly the same. Took me 2 years to notice, there has to be more!!!