88 z rear discs on a 87 p-body

**mo' parts** · 10-17-2007, 04:04 PM

i finally picked up an 87 shadow es and have the z as a parts car.
will these parts interchange? how about the sway bars, are the tona's bigger? and if so will they interchange? gonna have alot of work ahead of me this winter. cant wait

thanks

**raccoon** · 10-17-2007, 04:09 PM

the brakes will swap right over, make sure to change the proportional valve as well.

not sure about the sway bar, I know it will bolt in but make sure its not the same bar.

**turbovanman²** · 10-17-2007, 04:09 PM

Bolt on and go. Change the master to a 24mm but I would get a new one of those,

The Z should have big sway bar, get some poly bushings for it.

**mo' parts** · 10-17-2007, 04:19 PM

thanks guys, that what i was looking for

so i should change the master and the prop. valve?

**turbovanman²** · 10-17-2007, 04:32 PM

Originally Posted by mo' parts

thanks guys, that what i was looking for

so i should change the master and the prop. valve?

Yes.......

**mo' parts** · 10-17-2007, 04:56 PM

thanks simon, id buy you a beer if you werent so far away. always quick to help, thanks again

**mo' parts** · 10-17-2007, 04:57 PM

are the springs between the two vehicles the same? (suspension) or is that something i should concider as well?

**Turbodave** · 10-17-2007, 05:05 PM

Pretty sure the Daytona has stiffer springs as well, probably worth swapping over.

**rare_ram** · 10-17-2007, 11:41 PM

What did the 24mm master come in?

**Speedeuphoria** · 10-18-2007, 12:12 AM

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/brakes.html

"This master cylinder(24mm) was used on all 1989 and later Chrysler FWD vehicles with rear disc brakes"

**turbovanman²** · 10-18-2007, 02:31 PM

Originally Posted by rare_ram

What did the 24mm master come in?

To be 100% sure you get the right one, order it for a 89/90 Minivan, they come stock with the 24mm unit.

**overlordsshadow** · 10-18-2007, 06:19 PM

Anyone have preference for make or supplier of the 24mm master cylinder, poly bushings?

**turbovanman²** · 10-18-2007, 06:53 PM

Originally Posted by overlordsshadow

Anyone have preference for make or supplier of the 24mm master cylinder, poly bushings?

As long as the MC is new, doesn't matter who makes it. I just got a brand new Cardone unit from Rockauto, $18,

Last one though.

Poly bushings- vendors, www.polybushings.com or your local parts store.

**mo' parts** · 10-22-2007, 05:48 PM

i have another question pertaining to the z to p-body brake swap.......

what about the front brakes? are the 88 shelby z's larger? reason i ask is my L front caliper has been sticking (or so i thought), anyway i replaced it and after driving it a short distance, it seems to be sticking again. im pretty sure its not the caliper(now new), it has something to do w/ the pads (look like they had plenty of life left) or the rotor being too thin.????
before i go any further, i need to know about the size diff. if the tona's are bigger i'll re-do those, otherwise ill be re-doing the stock shadow stuff. or, if you know what the prob is lmk. it just looks like the outer slide piece of the caliper is awfully close to the rotor, and looks like that was the prob. to begin with....... i hate being a parts changer.lol
Simon, are you there?????????

thanks

MODS: feel free to move this to the brakes section if need be.

**Turbodave** · 10-22-2007, 06:29 PM

Adam, here's a good test or a sticking caliper. When it's doing it remove the wheel on that corner, get a wrench and crack the bleeder open, if the caliper frees up the problem is elsewhere in the system. It's not uncommon for rubber brake lines to break down internally and start to act like a check valve.

If the capiler is still stuck, even with the bleeder open then it's a caliper problem.

**mo' parts** · 10-22-2007, 06:45 PM

Originally Posted by Turbodave

Adam, here's a good test or a sticking caliper. When it's doing it remove the wheel on that corner, get a wrench and crack the bleeder open, if the caliper frees up the problem is elsewhere in the system. It's not uncommon for rubber brake lines to break down internally and start to act like a check valve.

If the capiler is still stuck, even with the bleeder open then it's a caliper problem.

thanks Dave, i'll give that a try.

**mo' parts** · 10-22-2007, 06:55 PM

well, the caliper freed up after cracking the bleeder valve. i guess it may be the rubber line then.

**Turbodave** · 10-22-2007, 08:11 PM

Originally Posted by mo' parts

well, the caliper freed up after cracking the bleeder valve. i guess it may be the rubber line then.

If it's not I'll owe you a beer at Sdac-18

**turbovanman²** · 10-22-2007, 08:40 PM

With whats said, rubber line,

**mo' parts** · 10-24-2007, 07:25 PM

Originally Posted by Turbodave

If it's not I'll owe you a beer at Sdac-18

sure enough, that was it. thanks Dave, i'll buy ya a couple at SDAC18

but of course, it wasnt as easy as just changing the line, nooooo, that would be too easy. the hard line from the prop. valve to the rubber line twisted in 2 even after soaking it 24 hrs. w the pb blaster.
on that note, ive still got a somewhat spongy pedal. will just bleeding it at the caliper solve this(more than what ive already done, lol), or is there another way since the hard line was replaced?
thanks

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