Calling all 2.5L T2 owners !

[WOP'R]

I have just installed a T2 Garrett on my 2.5L 90' Shadow and am having some boost issues. Here's my setup:

2.5 5spd
T2 Garrett
Large Adj. W/G Acctuator
20+ injectors
SRT4 intercooler
ported exhaust mani, 2.5" DP -> 3" Cat Back
Vaccum Block on Intake

I cleaned the vaccum lines using the vaccum block and cant seem to get it running right. I triple checked the vaccum set up and everything is hooked up right.

Could all of those that have the same setup as me post how you went about running your vaccum lines, and how you are controlling your boost. Details please (are you using any stock restrictors, etc?)

Also, any boost creeping issues? and how did u deal with?

[iTurbo]

I have a "2.5L TII" in my Omni GLH Turbo.

Quick list of specs:
'89 2.5L TI shortblock
Stock TII head/cam/manifolds
Rebuilt TII turbocharger w/quick spool option from TurbosUnleashed
Modified '89 SMEC and harness from '89 turbo/auto Caravan
3" exhaust - no cat, straight through muffler
NPR intercooler

I also have a vacuum distribution manifold, which is bolted directly to the intake manifold with NPT fittings above the fuel rail. It is a very simplified setup with vacuum lines going directly to the fuel pressure regulator, MAP solenoid, BOV, and vac/boost gauge. The only other vacuum line at all is the brake booster which still uses the stock line on the back side of the intake. Car has always run great this way.

For boost control, I'm using a grainger valve which is referenced from a nipple on the compressor housing. Boost control seems very solid this way.

[turbovanman²]

You shouldn't need the Mitsu restrictors.

[cordes]

I have a garrett turbo on my shadow with an SRT4 IC. I run a vac block on the back of my TI intake. I have a vac line going from my vac block to a grainger valve, and then to the WGA.

Exactly what problem are you experiencing with your boost control?

[ShelGame]

Do you have the WG plumbed T1 or T2 style?

T1 Style = Manifold ---- WG can ---- Solenoid ---- Vent

T2 Style = Manifold ---- Solenoid ---- WG Can


There are much better diagrams than this on Minimopar.net, of course.

If you use the T2 style with a 2.5 T1 computer, the boost won't be controlled properly.

[Turbodave]

Like Shel-Game said the later TI cars control boost by bleeding pressure off through the solenoid. All the cars I've converted haven't been happy (overboost under load) running of the TI controls and plumbing so I've just stuck with a grainger valve on them and been happy since.

[deuce dodge]

grainger..

........maybe set up a pressure switch to prevent overboost.

easy

deuce

[WOP'R]

Like Shel-Game said the later TI cars control boost by bleeding pressure off through the solenoid. All the cars I've converted haven't been happy (overboost under load) running of the TI controls and plumbing so I've just stuck with a grainger valve on them and been happy since.

ok, at this point i am still using the WG solenoid.. how i have it set up right now is :

Accutator --> manifold and I Teed off from this line to the WG solenoid. and with this setup i AM hitting cutout but barely feel any boost.

So did you just disconect the vacuum line from the solenoid and put a plug in it? OR, did you remove the WG solenoid completey ?

What I am going to do next is just plug off the vacuum line to the solenoid and just run a straight vacuum line from WG Acctuator to the manifold.

Will let you know what happens in an hour.

[WOP'R]

One hour later... heres the second way i just set up, and I am still hitting cuttout and barely feel any boost :

I just did a straight vacuum line from the WG Acctuator --> Manifold = overboost


So, my question now is what are the detailed configurations of the WG Solenoid and the Purge Solenoid ?
How I have these solenoids with this most recent set up are as follows from the top of each solenoid (when hovering over the engine bay) to bottom of the solenoid:

WG Solenoid: Pulgged Off, Pulgged Off, Vent

Pruge Solenoid: Manifold, Vapor Canister, Vent

***Remember that these are still the original T1 1990 Solenoids and T1 computer***

Why am I still hitting cut out !!??

[cordes]

If you have a line directly from the manifold to the WGA, and hitting overboost, there is a problem with the line or the WGA.

[shelbyplaya]

If you have a line directly from the manifold to the WGA, and hitting overboost, there is a problem with the line or the WGA.

not true. i hit over boost with my 2.5l and s60 turbo, my exhaust is open 2.5" no cat. so theres little back pressure to open it.



just get a g-valve hooked up and that will solve everything!

or if you just wanna test your WG hook it up directley to the small barb on the TB, you shoudlent see more then a cuple PSI of boost. then you know the WG is working fine.

[Mike M]

Ray, what are you smokin' today. LOL. Anyways, if it is hitting overboost plugged in directly, then the g-valve won't make any difference, it might make matters worse. On my lebaron I'm running a 2.5 t-1 engine, a t-2 garrett with the stock t-2 rad/cooler, and 2.5" side exit with a little resonator, and no issues. I would probably start with checking the actuator. it could be stuck closed, or just not opening enough to control boost. But thats the only thing that I could see going wrong.

Steve Z
aka Gold Lebaron

[WOP'R]

If you have a line directly from the manifold to the WGA, and hitting overboost, there is a problem with the line or the WGA.

i changed the line 4 times. can you please tell me what you did with your soleniods? how did you hook them up and what did you plug off. LETS FIGURE THIS OUT FIRST!!!!!



regarding the WG, i have the adjustable unit from TU and i set it up as shown here http://www.turbododge.com/forums/sho...e+wastegate%22

does this wastegate have a stronger spring than stock and thus having a increased boost setting?

[WOP'R]

Ray, what are you smokin' today. LOL. Anyways, if it is hitting overboost plugged in directly, then the g-valve won't make any difference, it might make matters worse. On my lebaron I'm running a 2.5 t-1 engine, a t-2 garrett with the stock t-2 rad/cooler, and 2.5" side exit with a little resonator, and no issues. I would probably start with checking the actuator. it could be stuck closed, or just not opening enough to control boost. But thats the only thing that I could see going wrong.

Steve Z
aka Gold Lebaron

could you also please tell me what you did with the soleniods?? in detail please?

[cordes]

not true. i hit over boost with my 2.5l and s60 turbo, my exhaust is open 2.5" no cat. so theres little back pressure to open it.

You must have one hummer of a high flowing setup to overboost due to creep with a .63 housing and 2.5in. exh. I ran a T2 with a .63 and a 3" cat-less exh with no problems what so ever.

Any who, I am willing to bet that your problem is the adjustbable WGA. If you can't get that figured out the solenoids wont do you any good. Try to lengthen the arm slightly and give it another go with the vac line coming directly from the manifold. Then once you get the boost down to 6-8lbs use shelgame's info to figure out the vac routing. Although I would just use a grainger valve.

[WOP'R]

But why not deal with the easiest of the 2 possibilities first. The solenoids are much easier to adjust than the WG. I am not sure they are venting when they shouldnt be. If so, then its fixed in 2 seconds. So Please tell me about your solenoid set up, just so we can narrow it down. If the solenoids arent the issue, the I will move to the WG issue (if there is one).

So, PLEASE inform me of your guys' solenoid set ups! which are plugged, which are venting? and what is connected? and did you just eliminate a complete solenoid ? ... pretty please !

[butchsuppe]

The setup I use is a grainer valve, 5th injector and an ajustable diode see this site for diode http;//www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis this diode is totally bitchin, cost about $8. to mike. I,m run 17psi at 12 btc also see the dodge garage for info on 5th injector + grainger valve lol

[cordes]

But why not deal with the easiest of the 2 possibilities first.

If you can't get the boost to become stabalized with a direct vac line from the manifold to the WGA, all the solenoid setups and messing around you want to do wont help you.

Your problem is with the WGA given that the direct vac line to the WGA from the manifold was good, which is should be since you supposedly tripple checked it.

Once that is done, re-read shelgame's post which will instruct you in how to set up your vac lines going to the solenoid. Once again, most hage just put a grainger in a line coming from the manfold going to the WGA to control boost. It is about the best setup one could get, and you can't beat the price.

[WOP'R]

i understand what needs to happen with the wastegate solenoid to except the garret, i just wanted to make sure i was right ( i have yet to get an answer on that).

NOW what about the PURGE SOLENOID??

i was hitting over boost because of the wastegate soleniod being hooked up to the intake and "venting".

the purge soleniod is also hooked up to the intake AND it also vents!
i need to know if this soleniod is still supposed to be hooked up to the intake and vent?
i understand this soleniod doesnt control the boost but isnt it now taking pressure away from the wastegate by venting? if it isnt supposed to "vent" then wouldnt that mean i would still hit over boost no matter how I set the adjustable wastegate?

this is why i would like to get the soleniods figured out first

[cordes]

THe purge solenoid only vents when you start up the car I believe, and then it is sending the gas vapors from the charcoal canister to the TB. It should not be an issue.