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Thread: 2.5 Build

  1. #1
    Garrett booster
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    2.5 Build

    Don't know if i'm in the right section or not but this is what im looking for. I have a glh't omni with a 2.5 swap and i want it in the 11s. I have the suspension side of what i want to do figured out so i wont fill up the post with that lol. Anyway, my plan was the 89' 2.5, .40 over, forged venolia pistons, port and polished big valve G head, ported intake and exhaust manifolds, super 60 turbo, the 061 valve springs, performance F-4 cam, adjustable cam gears(was wondering if those were worth it) alum flywheel, fuel rail, adj fuel press reg, walbro 255 pump, and alcohol injection, i am running 87 CSX electronics. i was planning on boosting to around 20 psi and then putting a 50-100 hp nitrous kit on it. what would the weak points of the motor be, anything i should change and is there any reason i shouldn't do anything on here?? any help would be awesome!!!

  2. #2
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    About time you showed up,

    Well sounds like you have a solid base, that combo, with traction should easily put you in the 11's.

    What are you using for an IC, calibration?

    Are you getting the rods redone with ARP's or buying some aftermarket ones?

    I would use head and main studs but you'll most likely need to get an align hone with the main studs.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  3. #3
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    lol yea ive been busy so i haven't got a chance to get on here! but yea, the rods and crank were my biggest concerns. im assuming the stock rods will not hold up to what i want??? what about crank? also i was planning on doing the APR studs, just forgot to write it as for the intercooler im running the isuzu NPR intercooler, everyone told me before it was a awesome intercooler, and i had good luck with it on my old build... my calibration i am having matt wright do, he has also done all my old ones and ive had good luck with them so yea the number one weak point i see to my setup besides the rods (Maybe) is the 94 shadow A523, but ill just run it till it breaks then put in the 568 if need be, but what would your suggestions on rods and what not be? i really dont know where to go for that so yea your opinion will be AWESOME! Thanks

  4. #4
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Cast crank will take it, rods, they will take 500whp when rebuilt but for the money, hands down I would go with the Eagle SRT rods that Cindy has or for a few bucks more, TU's K1 rods. I got mine cheap otherwise I would have gone the K1 route.

    Debur the parting lines off the crank, have the engine balanced and you'll be happy. MY 2.5 TIII easily and very smoothly spins to 7000 rpm,
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  5. #5
    boostaholic bfarroo's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    I'd bore the block as little as possible. Your really not going to gain anything by removing more material other than making the motor weaker.

  6. #6
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    +1 to that..

    other than sizing new pistons, the best reason to bore a block is to put the cylinders in a line how they should be but sometimes are not

    JT
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  7. #7
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    the only reason im going .40 over is because my block is already that, when i got it it had a exploded piston in it, scard the cylinder wall, so its .40 over, thats my only reasoning for the .40 over..

  8. #8
    See me ride out of the sunset... Turbo Mopar Staff BadAssPerformance's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Bad thing that happened, but good reason to bore it

    JT
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  9. #9
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    i was just reading through the post again, and simon you said the stock rods are good to 500whp? what is a motor with my set up going to be pushing???? i was also wondering what about a 52 mm throttle body for that set up? good or bad??

  10. #10
    turbo addict
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Quote Originally Posted by me235 View Post
    i was just reading through the post again, and simon you said the stock rods are good to 500whp? what is a motor with my set up going to be pushing???? i was also wondering what about a 52 mm throttle body for that set up? good or bad??
    That motor could potentially make 400+ HP and yes, the stock T2/2.5 rods will take it. Power all depends on how well your upper end can move the air, what boost youre running, and how well its tuned. 52mm or 58mm throttle body is a good idea if youre running a custom intake manifold. If youre running a stock intake, theres no point in a larger TB.

  11. #11
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Quote Originally Posted by me235 View Post
    i was just reading through the post again, and simon you said the stock rods are good to 500whp? what is a motor with my set up going to be pushing???? i was also wondering what about a 52 mm throttle body for that set up? good or bad??

    Hard to say what your motor will push, but with a 100 shot of nitrous, probably 400 or so whp.

    Try the 52mm, then try a larger one, most seem to agree its based on intake manifold design.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  12. #12
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    so you would still say to go with the H beam rods or would the not be needed????

  13. #13
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Quote Originally Posted by me235 View Post
    so you would still say to go with the H beam rods or would the not be needed????
    Its up to you. I used the stock rods with no issues but they have to be prepped properly.

    If you have the cash, get new ones, if you don't, have the old ones redone.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  14. #14
    Garrett booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    ok so redone you mean like shot peened and cleaned and inspected??? im going to try to go with the H beams, but if for some reason i cant i wanna know what i need to to instead

  15. #15
    turbo addict
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    also get some ARP bolts for the stock rods, then have them resized

  16. #16
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Quote Originally Posted by me235 View Post
    ok so redone you mean like shot peened and cleaned and inspected??? im going to try to go with the H beams, but if for some reason i cant i wanna know what i need to to instead
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedeuphoria View Post
    also get some ARP bolts for the stock rods, then have them resized
    Yes, deburred, balanced, new pin bushings, drill the top for another oil hole-in the FAQ's, arps and resized.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  17. #17
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    The stock "bronze" bushing is really a bronze electroplated piece of steel crap. Having a REAL bronze bushing is a must.

    Mike

  18. #18
    turbo addict slasky's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    Just for reference I have a 2.5 commonblock, stock fastburn head, super 70 turbo, ported exhaust manifold, stock 1 pc intake, stock throttle body, stock rods with arp bolts, arp headstuds, and I ran a 12.5 at 21-22 psi in my full interior shelby charger. I would think either more boost or nitrous would get me into the 11s.

    With what you have listed I would think you would easily get into the 11s. The stock rods should be fine but I would got with the upgraded ones; because everyone always wants to go faster than originally planned.
    SDAC member "It's not the ride, it's the rider."

  19. #19
    turbo addict moparzrule's Avatar
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    Re: 2.5 Build

    I would run more than a super 60 turbo with the setup listed. I'd say a super 50 with a stage 2, or even a stage 3 since it's a 2.5L. My 2.5 spools a stage 3 to 20 PSI by 3500 RPM.

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