Stupid I know but......
I have a socketed CAL I was trying another chip that did not work out too well and I put the old chip back in & car would not start (no fuel pump) pulled out the computer and noticed I put the chip in backwards!
Corrected that and the car started but now it idles at 2500 RPM! Looked around no vac lines off & everything else looks ok. Did I fry something?? And if so how do I check?
Forgot to add no codes....
The AIS motor probably has to be reset. I forgot where that procedure is documented but I'll try to find it.Originally Posted by kpic
[SIZE=4][COLOR=red][B][URL="http://www.fwdperformance.com/store"]FWD Performance[/URL][/B][/COLOR] is a performance parts and service business catering to a variety of high performance cars. We carry a full line of products to service and upgrade [I][COLOR="#FF0000"]Turbo Mopars, Shelby Dodges and Chryslers[/COLOR][/I] of all makes, models and years. From parts to service, fabrication and dyno tuning there is something for everyone. Visit our store at [COLOR=red][B][URL="http://www.fwdperformance.com/store"]FWD Performance[/URL][/B][/COLOR], we'd love to hear from you![/SIZE]
pull the vacuum line off of the brake booster. This creates a large vacuum leak, and a high idle. The AIS will close all the way off to try and get the idle down. Once that happens, shut the car off, reconnect the hose, and start it up.
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
SDML Readers Rides
C/S Registry
Stuff For Sale
Yea, thats it.
[SIZE=4][COLOR=red][B][URL="http://www.fwdperformance.com/store"]FWD Performance[/URL][/B][/COLOR] is a performance parts and service business catering to a variety of high performance cars. We carry a full line of products to service and upgrade [I][COLOR="#FF0000"]Turbo Mopars, Shelby Dodges and Chryslers[/COLOR][/I] of all makes, models and years. From parts to service, fabrication and dyno tuning there is something for everyone. Visit our store at [COLOR=red][B][URL="http://www.fwdperformance.com/store"]FWD Performance[/URL][/B][/COLOR], we'd love to hear from you![/SIZE]
OK I tried it but it did not work. I started car RPM at 2500 rpm pulled brake booster hose RPM shot up to about 3000 rpm - shut car - reconnected hose and same 2500 rpm. I think the AIS is working though because as it was warming up the RPM dropped to about 2000.
try disconnecting the battery?
you shouldnt had fried anything, i put chips in backwards adn 1 pin off before and its still fine
95 spirit 3.0/543 15.0@91 N/A, 14.5@96 on a 50 shot RIP 87 shelby Z - project car, maybe I can drive it this year 91 spirit - roll it, chop the top, do some burnouts! RIP
I've fried the chip a couple times putting it in backwards and powering up the board. All on LM's though before I knew which way to put the chip in.
It might take a while for the computer to learn the idle. The last time I took one out of my shadow it took 50-100 miles for the idle to come back down to normal again at every stop. Although those were trips to and from work which is all 55MPH roads with no lights etc. so it did not have much of a chance to learn the idle etc. If the chip still works, I doubt you fried it.
Putting the chip in backwards will invert the power supply to the chip. They have some built-in protection, but it won't last long. Older chips may live longer due to the larger die size. Anyway its a crapshoot. Some will live and some will die, but I have yet to see one die that wasn't TOTALLY dead. If the program was damaged, I would at least expect a code 53.
Maybe you have a big vacuum leak somewhere. How about blocking off the TB intake. If you can't kill it, you have a leak.
+1 on this. In my line of work (coin op electronic darts), it depends on the the age of the part, the mfg. of the prom, the duration of the mis-plug with power applied (ie: 5 seconds or 5 minutes) and how the planets have aligned that day...
If it ran fine prior to the mis-plug, and not so much afterwards, try and test the prom in a programmer, or just replace it...
TT
I will continue stressing the vacuum issue! I had yesterday the same issue with the same idle. Now, you have worked on the ECU so there is one Vacuum Line which is going off the break booster to near the Airbox (at least in my car). In my case this was completely disconnected and was succing like mad. Tapping this has solved my issue.
Anotherone is the Line which goes to your cruise control. I am sure you'll find something around that line. Ahh yes, anotherone on my side was that I had a leak around the PCV valve. Both fixes braught the car back to 900 RPM
Let's play cars.....:bump2: [URL="http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2909181"]Visit my ride[/URL] [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
It was the chip, must have messed it up by installing backwards. Why it only affected the idle I have no idea.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote