Condenser area mounted radiator

[90Dodgevnt]

I had the Scirocco radiator (AFC-80104N in the Summit catalog) with the dual fan setup and it was the biggest waste of money and didn't cool worth a damn.

To get it to fit I had to cut the hell out of the front core support area and chop the radiator pegs from the frame to get it to mount correctly. (This was for a FMIC Spearco setup). Not only did it not cool (radiator surface area was too small/thick...12x22x3) the fans always ran (and were noisy as hell), and this was without A/C. Part of the issues was building a shroud for the 2+ inch gap to the top of the header panel, and with the bottom 1/3 covered by a FMIC, so I just scrapped it and had a cusom one built.

I know of a at least 1 that is using this setup and someone else that is using the setup for a current project. Take it from someone that wasted $500+ with the radiator/fans and customs hoses


Run away! Run away!


Mike

This sounds nice and will solve some of the problems of mounting aftermarket rads.

For people that don't mind the challenge there are several scirocco style radiators on summit/jegs for under $250 that are about the same dimensions.

If I can't find a way to fit the intake on my SRT4 swap past my big radiator I might also have to switch to this style rad.

-Rich

[rbryant]

I had the Scirocco radiator (AFC-80104N in the Summit catalog) with the dual fan setup and it was the biggest waste of money and didn't cool worth a damn.

To get it to fit I had to cut the hell out of the front core support area and chop the radiator pegs from the frame to get it to mount correctly. (This was for a FMIC Spearco setup). Not only did it not cool (radiator surface area was too small/thick...12x22x3) the fans always ran (and were noisy as hell), and this was without A/C. Part of the issues was building a shroud for the 2+ inch gap to the top of the header panel, and with the bottom 1/3 covered by a FMIC, so I just scrapped it and had a cusom one built.

I know of a at least 1 that is using this setup and someone else that is using the setup for a current project. Take it from someone that wasted $500+ with the radiator/fans and customs hoses


Run away! Run away!


Mike

Thanks for the feedback. It is good to hear from people who have actually tried things!

I considered either the afco or the thicker griffin but figured it wouldn't cool my car with AC in the Phoenix desert where I live so I have a custom Ron Davis Radiator made. It looks like you are from Austin so you share my pain. People in the northeast can run a tiny little radiator and have no problems but in the southwest we need something serious or we overheat.

I am building an intake with a super short runner for the SRT4 swap so hopefully I can keep it for the 16v but it will be really tight and isn't anywhere near a dropin radiator and is tight even with the 8v engine.

-Rich

[90Dodgevnt]

Life without A/C in Austin stinks. I can't imagine AZ where it's 100+ on a cool day

The radiator I had made was right around 14x20x3 or a 15x20x3 (I don't 100%remember w/o looking at drawings which are at home) and it turned out ok, but a few errors were made in the build phase that I have to address before it's all back together.

(A) The radiator cap/neck was not taken into consideration by the builder. He figured max height was w/o the neck/cap, and it added another 1/2 inch. It's taps the hood insulation.
When I get the neck redone, it'll be similar to a I *think* an 87 CSX...

(B) The tanks were bigger then I wanted. I would like to (hopefully) get the passenger side tank tapered a bit, to help with clearance issues with the intercooler pipes or just have different tanks put on. I’ll drop it off tomorrow to see what can be done

(C) They forgot a drain----
That will be added if the tanks can be resized, etc

(D) I ordered the wrong size fan. It works, but watch your fingers when it's running Ordered a 15 inch fan by mistake…oops.

The radiator cools like a dream, even overcools….but it’s miles ahead of the factory stuff VNT radiator that I had. Just wish it hadn't been such a rush job as the mistakes, for the most part, could've been avoided.



Mike

[minigts]

Life without A/C in Austin stinks. I can't imagine AZ where it's 100+ on a cool day

The radiator I had made was right around 14x20x3 or a 15x20x3 (I don't 100%remember w/o looking at drawings which are at home) and it turned out ok, but a few errors were made in the build phase that I have to address before it's all back together.

(A) The radiator cap/neck was not taken into consideration by the builder. He figured max height was w/o the neck/cap, and it added another 1/2 inch. It's taps the hood insulation.
When I get the neck redone, it'll be similar to a I *think* an 87 CSX...

(B) The tanks were bigger then I wanted. I would like to (hopefully) get the passenger side tank tapered a bit, to help with clearance issues with the intercooler pipes or just have different tanks put on. I’ll drop it off tomorrow to see what can be done

(C) They forgot a drain----
That will be added if the tanks can be resized, etc

(D) I ordered the wrong size fan. It works, but watch your fingers when it's running Ordered a 15 inch fan by mistake…oops.

The radiator cools like a dream, even overcools….but it’s miles ahead of the factory stuff VNT radiator that I had. Just wish it hadn't been such a rush job as the mistakes, for the most part, could've been avoided.



Mike

Man, Mike WOW! Excellent things to think about and thankfully I did!

I stressed the overall height had to be 14" MAX and preferred a width no greater than 19-20" as I have a good bit of room to give on the width. Also stressed the width to be no greater than 2.5" as this would push the radiator out from under the support, which is why I'm moving it there in the first place!

The box I made in the picture above has places where I drew where the fill neck, inlet, outlet, heater return and drain---- would be. He and I also discussed the mounting studs for top and bottom and came up with a "solution". Plans are to have 2 studs at the bottom 4" from either side and a 1/2" flat l-shaped plate at the top that will stick out 1/4" from the edge of the radiator. This will allow the radiator to sit under the rad. support and allow to use the existing rad. support to secure it at the top.

I inquired about the block off for the pump outlet to the heater return and that isn't a problem. Dorman makes a rubber-type cover that will cap that off and allow me to use the original return inlet there previously on the TI radiator.

The mounting studs at the bottom SHOULD allow for anyone interested to mount the radiator where the condenser was and clear the front motor mount welding. It would also, in some fabricated way allow those who would like to just replace the existing radiator in the factory location and be able to use some type of adapter plate. Like a flat bar with holes for the custom radiator to mount and then studs on the ends that mount where the factory radiator mounts are, if that makes sense.

In my quick thinking, I think something could be made. At any rate, he has the specs and hopefully will have something this weekend so I can replace my existing one. As soon as I get it, pics will be posted!

[90Dodgevnt]

Yap, keep me posted.

Depending on what I can do with getting the fixes made to the current radiator, I may buy one if not two. Hell, I got a 2nd Shadow that would love and intercooler..

[minigts]

Well I submitted the information/design on Monday and they had it ready today!!! I was more than excited to get the call. Did a great job, in my opinion, and I can't wait to get this thing in and confirm everything fits right!!

One of the things I asked for was the tab you see in the 4th picture. This will allow me to mount the radiator at the top with bolts and to place a rubber spacer between the mounting tab and the factory radiator support.

The last picture is of the mounting tabs which are spaced 4 inches from the ends. This will not be in the way of the front motor mount, if you are wondering or were curious.

Please enjoy.

[Dez]

Looks very nice, and the quality of the weld are superve.

[MiniMopar]

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

Perhaps the engine warms up faster with less coolant circulating before the thermostat opens.

[90Dodgevnt]

Very nice.

What was the final cost?

[minigts]

Well with tax it was $380, but we have a 10% tax rate here. I think if any of you were to order anything out of state, it wouldn't be as much. HOWEVER, without tax and what he did it was WELL worth it, for me. As I mentioned, if at least 10 of you were interested it would be about $300-315 plus shipping so about $350. Wasn't thrilled about the small discount, but the work is, again in my opinion, well done and for what I want out of it.

This is my justification for spending the money. I've had this car for about 16 years and always wanted certain things out of it. The more I work on it, the more I realize what should have been done and what I want to do. I can't even go into my interior and how I want to redesign it at this point, but nevertheless it will be a $1000 interior when I am finished and that ONLY includes the interior pieces, not to mention the seat covers.

Point being, the radiator cost me $380 tax included which is about $200 more than what it cost to have a factory one that just bolts in and works just the same, but this is my custom car and I want it to look as it would if I were going to build it from scratch, because I am.

Having said that, if anyone were to state their view on whether it was wasted money or spending more than it's worth, I would encourage their logic of those who could better spend their money on speed and performance. In some ways I would agree, but for me I wanted this and in some ways needed this for myself and my 16+ old project car. So I won't get angry or argue if some of you feel it wasn't worth it because in some manner I would agree. But it runs along the same lines as those who spend thousands powdercoating parts not seen or sound systems that will cause hearing loss. We spend where our feelings drive us, whether they are effective or a fa scad.

[boost geek]

Perhaps the engine warms up faster with less coolant circulating before the thermostat opens.

I had 2 L bodies, both had the heater core hose on the rad, but both cars had lousy heat, barely any in winter. Both cars got the later pump housing with the nipple, and heating became much better. I think the coolant circulates quicker through the pump setup.

[MiniMopar]

I had 2 L bodies, both had the heater core hose on the rad, but both cars had lousy heat, barely any in winter. Both cars got the later pump housing with the nipple, and heating became much better. I think the coolant circulates quicker through the pump setup.

Makes sense, even if the flow is the same. If you think about it, the motor has to heat up all the coolant in the left radiator end tank and the lower hose, instead of just what's in the head/block and core.

[minigts]

Sweet interior conversion, btw! Man, I was trying to figure out what car that was in. Clicked on the pic and it all made sense.

[Turbodave]

That radiator looks great, and I think even without the discount you got an awesome price for something custom made to your specifications.

[SVO Blake]

Trotter...

Just checking out the site. Pretty cool site...

I need to come to Memphis and check your car out as well as Tom's.

Blake

[GLHS592]

I guess I missed it. Where did you get this radiator built? I've been thinking about having one built for my truck.

[minigts]

I guess I missed it. Where did you get this radiator built? I've been thinking about having one built for my truck.

Four Seasons Radiator in Memphis on Thomas Street. You remember how I told you I wanted to do the radiator under the support for extra room? Finally did it.

Actually pretty reasonable overall and very good work. Still got to get it in and make sure there aren't any clearance issues and everything is working fine, but I'm not too worried. He asked me to build the cardboard version, as I did to check the dimensions. Assuming the variance is within 1/16" of an inch, which it is, everything should just bolt right up.

[zin]

Wow, that's one nice radiator! And the price was VERY fair for a custom made piece! If I wasn't dead set on retaining my A/C I'd have one! But like most things, I insist on doing the hard way! That's just my way!

[GLHS592]

Four Seasons Radiator in Memphis on Thomas Street. You remember how I told you I wanted to do the radiator under the support for extra room? Finally did it.

Yeah, I remember. Will it leave you enough room for a front mount intercooler?

[minigts]

Thanks for the kind words Zin.

Kevin, this will leave all kinds of room for the FMIC, maybe more after I correct the latch support or should I say, re-engineer it. My goal is to design the front end support area so I can install/remove all these components, work on the alternator and have a professional clean look all at once. The next step to do this is cut out the area in front of the alternator and make a removable cover. After that, I need to custom make a hood catch piece that locks in with the hood latch only using the two bolts, maybe using the other two for extra support. This way I could very easily drop in an NPR and not have any clearance issues.

And as long as it will take me, it really shouldn't take that much to do. As I do it, I'll take pictures, document and share with everyone.

I'm putting the radiator in today so I will have some final pics of the radiator installed by this evening.