Condenser area mounted radiator

[minigts]

Taking a poll as to who would be interested in having one of these fabricated. The reason I ask is I figure the price would be a little cheaper if a few people ordered one. The main reason I'm replacing mine is because I'm tired of having like two inches to do ANYTHING on the front of my car, not to mention I'd like to use my factory size oil filter.

I'm looking to get a 20"x14"x1.5" radiator made to fit. This will fit under the radiator support with the mounting studs at the bottom and an area on the top that will allow for just about any kind of mounting necessary to secure the top. I'm also having the guy weld the 90 degree fill neck on it and a 5/8" heater return inlet along with the factory inlets and outlets at the top and bottom.

For anyone running the older style water pump with the one inlet and outlet, this would be an easy replacement from the stock radiator. For anyone else using the newer style pump, a block off or cap would be necessary.

It will be a 2 core solid aluminum radiator with the above dimensions, factory inlets and outlets and the 5/8" heater return inlet.

Anyways, thought I would inquire as to who would be interested in such. I'm probably going to have it done here in about a week, so pics will be up shortly thereafter.

[zin]

What cost are you looking at right now (a one off)? And which body are you making it to fit?

[minigts]

Right now, just one is $350 and it will be made to fit my Charger, so Omni and Chargers. But the design will really be made to fit where the condenser is. For larger cars like the Daytona, I'm sure the fit would be fine to replace the factory one. The two things I want out of this thing is get rid of the RIDICULOUSLY long hose that extends from the pump to the heater core, which on my car is on the driver's side. The other is to give myself and the motor more room.

I'm also making this the dimensions I am because I will have a FMIC instead of the factory one. This one when installed will leave about 3.5" for the IC plumbing.

It's more than I want to pay, but for what I want to do I don't have any other choice. I'm sure the price would be reasonable if there were more in the order, but probably not much less than about $300. I'd love to be able to do this myself, but no time or talent to do it! hehe

[turbovanman²]

I've moved this to groupl buys.

[Turbodave]

Right now, just one is $350 and it will be made to fit my Charger, so Omni and Chargers. But the design will really be made to fit where the condenser is. For larger cars like the Daytona, I'm sure the fit would be fine to replace the factory one. The two things I want out of this thing is get rid of the RIDICULOUSLY long hose that extends from the pump to the heater core, which on my car is on the driver's side. The other is to give myself and the motor more room.

$350 seems like a reasonable price for a custom made piece.

While it sounds great for your Charger there are a couple things to consider. On an Omni there is very little room between the radiator and grill, so moving the radiator forward means less room for an intercooler. Most guys I've seen with big intercoolers on Omnis get rid of the A/C to fit them.

The coolant return going into the radiator was an L-body only thing, all the other models had the return on the bottom of the water pump. For someone that has a Daytona they would probably want to have the tank made without the extra heater hose fitting unless they were trying to shorten the hose like you are.

Definately want to see pics when you get one done, this might be a good part to put on my Rampage, I would love a few more inches of room underhood.

[minigts]

The coolant return going into the radiator was an L-body only thing, all the other models had the return on the bottom of the water pump. For someone that has a Daytona they would probably want to have the tank made without the extra heater hose fitting unless they were trying to shorten the hose like you are.

Thanks for the support Dave.

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

[Turbodave]

Thanks for the support Dave.

And that is something I have been meaning to ask. WHY did they do this? I mean seriously, why would you run a heater hose ALL the way from the pump at the bottom to a place at the top on the DRIVER'S side? Is this just something I'M dealing with because of where mine was or were the heater cores on the passenger side for cars with this pump from the factory?

Heater cores are all on the driver side so all the non L-body's got a bunch of hose going to the water pump inlet from the heater core. Not sure why they designed it like this, but it's the way they all are.

[turbovanman²]

I thought the heater hose nipple was AT the bottom of the tank, it was on the L body I just worked on. I think they did it due to lack of room at the front of the engine, its tight there and having another hose run to the waterpump is another failure point.

[minigts]

I thought the heater hose nipple was AT the bottom of the tank, it was on the L body I just worked on. I think they did it due to lack of room at the front of the engine, its tight there and having another hose run to the waterpump is another failure point.

You're right about the return line, however, my design with this guy would have it a little higher, almost midpoint of the radiator. Given where the heater core is, there isn't a good way around the placement of the heater hose. HOWEVER, it is, IMO, better than having it run from the pump to the heater core inlet.

So I see it as removing a lot of unnecessary heater line and cleaning things up a bit.

[90Dodgevnt]

Keep us updated.


I am interested, depending how the 1st one turns out, etc.

Mike

[minigts]

I'll have an estimate on the radiator for multiple orders this afternoon. Not sure where the break will be, but I'm thinking no better than $250. Which, if you figure the cost of a replacement one is about $150 or thereabouts and this will be aluminum. So, I'm thinking if he can get it around that price range, it will be a good deal for anyone interested.

More to come this afternoon!

[slasky]

It is a good price. I paid $400 to have a stock l body recored with a shortened high quality truck core. Mine was brass, which cools better than aluminum but it is heavier.

[minigts]

Well it wasn't as much as I was thinking, 10% off the $350 price for like 10 orders. I think he would do $300 flat for 10 or more, but it would be specific to the L bodies more or less. He is however going to do a thicker core with a less wide base, so 17"x2.5-3"x14".

So if anyone is interested $300-ish if we can get 10 ordered. I'll have full specs and dimensions by the end of this week and post exactly where everything will be. I see this thread fading fast though...

[90Dodgevnt]

I am still interested, but I'd have to see a final version/full mock up to commit.

[Turbodave]

I've got a few other projects that need attention before the Rampage, so while I think a new radiator for it would be nice, I can't justify getting one right now when I don't even know what engine I'm going to put in it yet.

[minigts]

I am still interested, but I'd have to see a final version/full mock up to commit.

Yeah I see how it is. After I get thrown to the wolves and you see if I make it out alive!!!! No, I understand. The main purpose was trying to get a discount for myself too, but it's hard to want to do something so specific without knowing the final outcome.

http://www.fsrradiator.com/ This is the company that does it. They do great work here in Memphis, and I mean great work. They have lots of examples of what they do in their waiting area and very clean on the builds. They use a TIG welder for most of their work and each radiator has a one year warranty against defects.

I do not work for them, will not in any way make any money if any of you decide to order one. I was thinking it would be cost effective for all of us to join in and order some, although $35-50 isn't that much of a savings anyways, so that's why I was joking up top.

[minigts]

Here is conceptually what it will look like, although you have to imagine the box as the radiator and it sitting in just a LITTLE bit more. Dimensions after I did some test fitting are as follows:

19"x14"x2.5"

The max thickness before it starts to stick outside the lip of the radiator support is 2.5", but that is cutting it close. I may have to make some minor adjustments to the lower front support area, but shouldn't be an issue.

The height is REALLY cutting it close, as the bolts holding the hood latch are too long. Going to have to use some shorter bolts or just cut these down a bit.

The length is fine and really could be bigger, but it's not necessary.

I have plans to cut out the metal in front of the alternator, which as I see it would now allow for an NPR IC to just drop right in without ANY adjustments, but this is speculation as I haven't done it yet. And I know what you're thinking, the metal in front of the alternator is there for a reason, but my plan for that is to make a door or plate that is removable. This will make it a LOT easier to work on the Alt tensioner. Seems like it would be a lot of work for a little reward, but to me it's worth it. By the time it's all said and done, I plan on making some descent mods to the front end of the car.

Going to the shop tomorrow, so more to come hopefully this weekend.

[zin]

I have plans to cut out the metal in front of the alternator,... This will make it a LOT easier to work on the Alt tensioner. Seems like it would be a lot of work for a little reward, but to me it's worth it.

I for one am with you on this one, ever since changing the belt on my Mom's 84 Omni 024! It actually factored in on my decision to buy the Omni, OK it wasn't a big factor, but just the fact that it was a consideration on whether to buy a car or not really says something! What the hell were those engineers thinking anyway?! Right up there with the PS if you ask me!

Mike

[rbryant]

This sounds nice and will solve some of the problems of mounting aftermarket rads.

For people that don't mind the challenge there are several scirocco style radiators on summit/jegs for under $250 that are about the same dimensions.

If I can't find a way to fit the intake on my SRT4 swap past my big radiator I might also have to switch to this style rad.

-Rich

[minigts]

I should have taken another picture, but the radiator you see in the picture has a place where the black piece on the alternator was leaning against the tank and made a small hole. Not to mention I had to re-route the wireThis due to the extremely tight clearance between the radiator and the alternator. Yet another reason to move things around. Just going to move the radiator to test fit this thing caused the leak to open again. But it's amazing how well silicone works.

One other thing I think I forgot to mention is this will not in any way hit the factory IC. So this can be installed and still clear the IC with about 1/4". As soon as I figure the font of the car out, in will go a nice LARGE FMIC.