My question is that i bought the rear vented brakes and planing on putting it in my lebaron i have the proportion valve to go with too. My question is can i run a 21mm master cylinder for now instead of the 24mm master cylinder cause the one in my car is new and i dont want to change it until the time comes. my thought of a 21mm m/c would be i wouldnt have that much more stopping power as a 24mm would. Is it do-able?
Yes, it will work, but the pedal may have increased travel and won't feel as responsive. I would try it and see; you might prefer it over a rock hard pedal that the 24mm could give (which personally I like).
Well i am gonna change it sooner or later but i dont want to change it if i dont have to im not a big fan of stiff pedals but to complete the job the right way ima do it. I just dont hope its really hard
I have SLH III on my Omni; 60mm Caravan front calipers and 36mm rear R/T calipers and 24mm MC. Pedal is pretty stiff but not too bad at all. 'Rock' hard might be a bit of a stretch but personal preference is somewhat of a factor. I think you will be fine with the 21mm MC.
Ok i also found out that my rear drums are 200mm (I think cause being an 88) and the 10.- rotors up front. will that be a problem to convert my rear to disc. Im not looking for the stopping power now i just wanna convert until the time comes to upgrading. So is it possible? whem up have a down grade from a the 24mm setup brakes I.E-sheby daytona
the real issue with using a tiny master cylinder is that its going to take a lot of travel to make the brakes work well, and your reaction times in an emergency are gonna suck bad. with a right size mc you touch the pedal and the brakes are there RIGHT NOW. with an undersized one it feels like your foot has to sink into a few inches of mud before you get real stopping power. mush tastic.
Why not change it now? You're going have to bleed the brakes twice if you change it later.
+1 to this! The M/C is pretty cheap and easy to change so... why not?Originally Posted by tryingbe
Well to be honest i didn't even know what slh was until i bought the rear disc conversion and the guy stated their were the big brakes to me i thought they were some sort of after market kit. I started out just wanting to change to rear to disc for the fact of being easier to work on and making the car appear better and then i started reading up about the slh packages and become confused cause i had know idea what my car had or even if it would of worked. But the reason why i said little by little was because my master cylinder is brand spanking new its not even a year old and my proportion valve is brand new too that sucker cost me 125 bucks from the dealer (but i do have the Proportion valve for the kit i bought) cause my old one went bad and for the pads up front their brand new as well. And lil by lil meaning when it comes time to having to change the pad in front ill up grade to the nice calipers from the daytona or so. But im become so confused cause my car is a highline lebaron from 88 but i think it has the Kelsey Hayes setup cause i could take the rotors out with out having to remove the bracket making it the 54mm caliper ..I think (stated in the mini-mopar web.)
Also what im confused about is when im on napaonline and look under 88 lebaron they dont even ask me if my car is a highline or turbo or with a VIN E they just go right to the parts listing. But when i go under 89 they state what type of car i have, is it turbo, or 2-door what size wheels it came with and it leads me right in the hands of the good brake parts I.E cali, M/C, etc
My car is a 1988 Chrysler lebaron 2-door highline turbo with 15" eggshells
If you put the vented rear disc's on you'll also want to upgrade to the big 11" front brakes or the car will want to lock the rears 1st. Which could lead to a spin. Also yes upgrade to the bigger 24mm MC. Rock hard pedal nahh. Just right. If you want rock hard you should try my D-150 MC
well, 88 lebarons only came with one kind of rear disc setup. however, the years right after had the option of the bigger 11" brakes so thats why it asked.
also,d-150 mc here i come! someday...
yes you could get a crappy disc setup on the 87-88 lebarons. Same on ShelbyZ's. If you had 10" rear discs from an 89+ model car I would say keep with the stock front brakes but the 11's will have more force and want them to lock 1st. Only the vented rear disc's were 11's.
OKay i took what you guys said in mind and ima do the whole SLH1 all at once even put shelby struts and springs on too. But what i want to know is am i going to have to get the Brackets to convert my front to 11s or can i use my brackets that hold the 10" rotors.Also if i have to get the brackets does napa carry them or do i have to the Buy them off here. And if you have a part Number from napa that'll be great and if anybodys is selling a pair that'll be great.
Thanks a bunch
Joey
I could be mistaken, but I believe you have to swap the whole knuckle assembly in order to go with the 11" brakes. The reason being that the brackets for the calipers are cast into the knuckle, unlike the 10" that use bolt on bracket. Anyone with more solid info please chime in!
Mike
That is true. I'm in the process of upgrading my '86 Omni GLH to 11" fronts (already did the rears). You have to use the knuckles from an '89 Daytona Shelby or Lebaron GTC (w/16" wheels). The caliper adapter is cast as part of the knuckle and will only work with the 11" rotor.
Okay this is becoming confusing, to help me out does anybody have pictures of the what ima need. Thanks
I think the confusion comes from the fact that what is commonly referred to as the SLH package has a number of options or stages, but centers around 10" brakes up front, with minivan calipers and mounts and disc brakes in back, with the vented 11" rear version being the pinnacle of that package. I believe it was presented this way because it was all stuff that could be bolted on to what was already there (ie knuckles) with no real modifications required.
Step up to 11" front rotors and now we need the whole knuckle assembly from the donor car, as well as the proportioning valve and an upgraded master cylinder (typically from the same car again). To add confusion to the list, many include the D-150 master cylinder as part of either of these packages and in doing so require adapters to connect the smaller lines of the car to the truck master.
It kind of comes down to just how bad---- do you really need your brakes to be? I'll likely end-up with a complete 11" set-up, but until I have time to re-due the whole front end, which I might as well do if I'm going to have the knuckles off, I'll be running the 10" fronts with minivan calipers and brackets, upgraded master, and solid disc read, pretty much as described on Dempsey Bowling's web page: http://www.dempseybowling.com/ Give it a read, or if you're like me, give it a couple of reads, and it should become a little clearer. Just bear in mind that he's illustrating the many incremental upgrades that you could do, not just the baddest of the bad. Any way you go, you'll be Stopping Like Hell! (maybe the 11" version should be called SLHS)
Hope this helps more than confuses!
Mike
Hey thanks dude that help me alot i have desided to go with the complete conversion from a shelby daytona I.E 24mm, 11" vented rotors in all four coners. My only problem would be to find the knuckles and bracket from a daytona i hope napa carrys them (i work their) But other than that its down hill from their i have the rear vented 11" rotors already and the front is know sweet.I think the confusion comes from the fact that what is commonly referred to as the SLH package has a number of options or stages, but centers around 10" brakes up front, with minivan calipers and mounts and disc brakes in back, with the vented 11" rear version being the pinnacle of that package. I believe it was presented this way because it was all stuff that could be bolted on to what was already there (ie knuckles) with no real modifications required.
Step up to 11" front rotors and now we need the whole knuckle assembly from the donor car, as well as the proportioning valve and an upgraded master cylinder (typically from the same car again). To add confusion to the list, many include the D-150 master cylinder as part of either of these packages and in doing so require adapters to connect the smaller lines of the car to the truck master.
It kind of comes down to just how bad---- do you really need your brakes to be? I'll likely end-up with a complete 11" set-up, but until I have time to re-due the whole front end, which I might as well do if I'm going to have the knuckles off, I'll be running the 10" fronts with minivan calipers and brackets, upgraded master, and solid disc read, pretty much as described on Dempsey Bowling's web page: http://www.dempseybowling.com/ Give it a read, or if you're like me, give it a couple of reads, and it should become a little clearer. Just bear in mind that he's illustrating the many incremental upgrades that you could do, not just the baddest of the bad. Any way you go, you'll be Stopping Like Hell! (maybe the 11" version should be called SLHS
Hope this helps more than confuses!
Mike
Thanks alot for helpful help
Glad to be helpful.
Mike
i dont know if this was mentioned yet but there are two different kinds of 11" front brakes, iirc. one is the early kind which you must switch the knuckle to use, and one is the later 91-up design, where you can just bolt the bracket and caliper from the 11s to any old knuckle on any 91-up and not have to swap anything else.
thats the setup on my dynasty. i had to grind out some holes on the rear to bolt the hubs to the dynasty axle but in the front (mine is 93) i just bolted on the caliper and caliper bracket, bigger rotor, bam. i actually think the caliper is the exact same one i already had, dual pin KH 60, but not terribly sure.
anywho, if you have a 91-up its damn easy to get 11" fronts.
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