Changing my oil and noticed there isn't any oil in the filter. Its damp but definitly not enough to pour any out. What would cause this? Been noticing a bit more valve ticking noise but figured it was normal for a TIII head with 109K on it. Any ideas? I figure it might be something to worry about but it must not be too serious if it hasn't ceased up yet due to no oil...
Did it sit overnight before you changed it? a few filters don't have drain back valves so it could drain out. I use Mopar and K@N filters and get it hot, then change it-oil always pours out, onto the block, coolant lines, down the oil pan,
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
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It's not a FRAM filter, is it?
No it only sat for about an hour. Oil was still warm. I use motorcraft filters, never fram. I know motorcraft is a ford brand but it is much higher quality than fram and I don't have to go to the dealer to get a Mopar filter. Been using them since I first got the car without any issues till today. I did put some synthetic lucas oil stabilizer in there, could that have cause a clog somewhere? Or is that even possiable?
Weird. Do you have good oil pressure?
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Sometimes the anti-drainback valve leaks the oil back into the pan, especially on engines where the filter sits on its side (like the 2.2/2.5). In a perfect world, a good oil filter won't allow this to happen!
You might have just had a bum filter, maybe try another brand. As far as Mopar oil filters go, Wix makes the skinny one (FRAM ph3614) and Purolater makes the fat one "090" (FRAM ph16). No need to goto the dealer unless you want to see the mighty M when you pop the hood!
or filter might be clogged, and the oil passages stopped using the filter and went through the filter bypass
If i were you I wouldn't use the motorcraft filter. Ford doesn't actually make them, they outsource to I belive Valvoline?
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The only time lucas stuff should be used is when there is no hope for the engine and you just need it for couple hundred miles more.Originally Posted by Dr.Evil
I've had excellent luck with Mobil 1 oil filters. M1-204 is what you need. Pricey, but in my book it's worth it.
Motorcraft switches between Purolator and Champion Labs. The Champ design doesn't have the best anti drainback valve. The backplate are sometimes rusty and the valve doesn't seat well. Also, most filters use nitrile rubber, which can get hard over time. The Frams are the worst. Cardboard doesn't make a good seal ever.
So what's wrong with Lucas? Works fine for me.
I don't know about you guys, but Wally World has Mopar filters around here (Cincinnati). They are only about a dollar more, if memory serves.
Doesn't the TIII have a built-in anti drainback valve like the other 2.2/2.5 engines?
The valve is on the output side of the filter (center). It won't prevent the filter from draining back into the pan.
Unless you like air to lube your parts for you.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
Interesting... but what about at real oil temp? Never been a fan of additives of any kind for the most part but it would seem that I have cleaner oil and better pressure (@10psi more) in my truck after using it. Never noticed any foaming either; not when checking oil levels after a hot run or when changing the oil after a hot run.
GMC 6.5 Turbo Diesel
I see the logic in the experiment and not doubting his results, yet my truck would seem to not follow that theory.
I would propose an alternative testing method that would involve running a know clean engine at temp, hard, then draining the oil (with additive) within the first 5 minutes of shut off into a glass or otherwise clear container to verify that the foaming has actually occurred at nominal levels.
but anyway...
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