Ticking, and some performance mods

[1966 dart wagon]

Hey guys well i have had my cylinder head all gone through and such when i did my new head gasket, i have installed a used t1 turbo converted it myself by using parts off my original one, thanks Ben (topdollar69) for the walk though. Ive noticed my engine will pull normally up to about 5200 rpm or so, at one point it pulled to 5500 but i'm going to try to stay out of the revs considering now after a night of cruising and playing around in the tona, i noticed the head has been ticking more then normal(or at least what im use to) what could cause this? can i fix it? I still have to track down a oil/coolant leak, also i noticed my engine would run hotter if i turned the heater on, could it be a collapsed heater core hose? Im thinking of starting out with replacing the basic hoses, like upper, lower rad hose, then the 90*bend hose on the w.p. and see how it works, the antifreeze was mixed properly but probably now off since it leaks. it already has a 180 degree thermostat. O and i think my gas gauge is off, when it gets to about 3/8ths a tank it will sometimes studded or not pull in rpm's as high is the normal for tm's. I filled it up got about 8.5 gallons in her of 93 oct. with 10*ethonal (spelling?), is corn bad for these cars i assume no i can get 93 with and w/o the corn additive which is better?

Well after i fix those little things I'm going to start playing around some more with mods of course haha, as of now i have a stock 1gen bov and pipe thinking of mounting it in the lower intercooler hose(hot side) what size of pipe do i need to make that work?? and I'm looking for mid to high 13's with 3in exhaust, i am going to get some dsm injectors 450cc's for 30 dollars cant go wrong, then afpr, good tires and go from there, a wide band of course also. and other pointers im running 14psi now and it pulls pretty good

[Speedeuphoria]

I filled it up got about 8.5 gallons in her of 93 oct. with 10*ethonal (spelling?), is corn bad for these cars i assume no i can get 93 with and w/o the corn additive which is better?

If you are running rich the ethanol will help lean it a little, if your running lean and cant add any more fuel the non corn gas would richen it up a little. how much?? No idea depends on your fuel setup/needs but @10% it may only be a .1 difference on the A/F

[1966 dart wagon]

If you are running rich the ethanol will help lean it a little, if your running lean and cant add any more fuel the non corn gas would richen it up a little. how much?? No idea depends on your fuel setup/needs but @10% it may only be a .1 difference on the A/F

i dont have an af guage yet, still deciding on which one i wanna get. thanks for clearing that up

[1966 dart wagon]

well i didnt wanna start a new thread but i may, got another question...

ive noticed when i drive my car nicely(no boost) easy driving n shuc it runs at the quarter temp place, what approx. temp is this, then after i get on it sometimes it gets as hot as up to the 3/4 line, what temp is this,a nd how can i prevent this fluxuation, i have a 180 thermostate but forgot to drill a hole in it, would this help? any sugestions.

[shadow88]

No two instrument clusters read the same, so an actual temperature for a certain position is an unknown. The hole in the housing will help fluctuations, but not cure them.

[1966 dart wagon]

thats intresting about the whole guage may vary on cluster...reminds me of old mopars, i have a 69 cuda and i am told the same thing about the guage on that, its bassically a sofisticated dummy light while im on the topic of cooling and such, i was wondering if anyone has created a way to make it so there fan would kick on when you press the ac button, see my car didnt have ac factory, someone added it with the ac temp control and since i wont use the switch anyways and i have some cooling problems, and i fixed my over flow tank problem, i was wanting to make it so i can manually turn on my fan, yet it would still turn on at the factory settings when the switch is turned off, since i run a lil hot and the fan doesnt turn on till about 3/4 the way up. any thoughts on this? has anyone done this?

[shadow88]

You seem to be asking for a manual rad fan switch. They're fairly simple.

The computer in your TD grounds the low side of the rad fan relay when it decided the time is right (212F) or when the a/c is on or during warm up.

You can also splice into the grond on the rad fan relay and run it inside to a toggle switch and then to ground. This way, if you want the rad fan on, you flip the switch, which grounds the low side of the relay, which energises the high side of the relay, which sends current to the rad fan and ta-da, it works. The best part is, if you forget -it still works!

I have not tried to use an a/c switch to get this done. Toggle switches are easy to hide too.

The toughest part is finding which wire to splice into. A service manual would always be preferred. Identify the rad fan relay by unplugging the coolant sensor and "feeling" which relay is clicking. It may take more than one try to find it. Next locate the low side ground wire. I pulled the relay apart and read the "schematic" on the relay case.

Splice into that wire and just to be sure you have the right wire, run an inline fuse and breifly touch the negative terminal of the battery. The fan should cycle. Now that you have the right wire spliced into, run that wire inside, attach to a toggle switch, and the other terminal of the toggle switch runs to a ground in the vehicle. Test, and you're done.

Sorry for the long responce, I just wanted to make sure I covered everything. This should probably go into the knowledge center All testing should be done with the key on, engine off.

[1966 dart wagon]

thanks for the nice big reply id rather read alot then a lil, i'll have to find out which wire it is for the ac switch, if i cant do it, i'll do it the toggle method, thanks for the good idea