How do I burp my cooling system?

[lowprofile]

Hi, my 2.5 turbo is having some overheating issues after water pump replacement.

The normal temp or the car used to be in the midle of the two lines in the pic, turning on in the higher and going off in the lower (2 of 3), but after the pump change the temp goes easily between the second and third (3 of 3) and goes down fast if I rev the car about 2k in parking.



Once the fan is on it remains on all the time cause the temperature doesn's go down enough .

I've been reading and I guess it's air in the hoses.

What is the correct way to make it burp?

thanks in advance

[Clay]

2 things you can do:

1) there is a threaded plug on the water box on the head (where the thermostat goes). Unscrew this threaded plug and you can use it to purge air from the coolant system.

2) when you install a thermostat, drill a small (1/8") hole in the thermostat face around the outside edge. Put this hole at the top when the thermostat is installed. This will allow any air in the system to escape to the radiator, and out if you let the car heat up with the rad. cap off.

clay

[lowprofile]

It was fast!!!

thanks Clay

[turbovanman²]

1/16", 1/8 is too big,

Also a plugged heater core will cause temp spikes and running hotter than normal.

[Clay]

Ive been drilling them 1/8" for god only knows how long, but smaller wont hurt anything. Same effect.

[Dave]

Or you could jack the front end up and take the radiator cap off and let the vehicle run.

[turbovanman²]

Ive been drilling them 1/8" for god only knows how long, but smaller wont hurt anything. Same effect.

In colder climates, seems to run cooler,

Or you could jack the front end up and take the radiator cap off and let the vehicle run.

Why? drill the thermostat, no more air bubbles, ever,

[cordes]

In colder climates, seems to run cooler,

Agreed. When I was living in MI the 1/8" hole was too much. It would take my car too long to warm up and then it would run too cold. Since I have gone to the smaller hole, it has been much better temp wise, and it also gets a little better MPGs when it is cold due to the faster warmup I presume.

[lowprofile]

I had to remove the thermostat, it wasn't opening properly I guess.

The car is working at lower temps and now the weather is warm, so I will try this way for a while and maybe in winter will put a new one.

thanks a lot for the inputs.

[turbovanman²]

You should always run one, it keeps the engine temp consistant.

[mark]

if you completely remove it, the coolant is going through the system too fast, and its not in there enough to transfer the heat from the motor into the coolant.

[lowprofile]

ok then I'll pick a new one. I was trying to figure out if that was the problem, or some other hidden issue.

there's only one type of thermostat? The guy who sold me this car told me it was a mopar performance thermostat... :/ what a MP thermo does beside open and close?


thanks!!

[Dave]

ok then I'll pick a new one. I was trying to figure out if that was the problem, or some other hidden issue.

there's only one type of thermostat? The guy who sold me this car told me it was a mopar performance thermostat... :/ what a MP thermo does beside open and close?


thanks!!

The MP T-stat probally runs a little cooler. It has a lower temperature at which it's completely open.

AutoStoned or whichever sells 160*, 180*, and 195* for our vehicles. Probally more, but that's what I'm used to.

[Clay]

what a MP thermo does beside open and close?

restrict flow for proper cooling

[turbovanman²]

if you completely remove it, the coolant is going through the system too fast, and its not in there enough to transfer the heat from the motor into the coolant.

Did you miss enough "time" lol.

Theres the other angle too, the water is moving so fast, the rad can't remove the heat from the coolant, so it can run hotter but in most cases, cars without thermostats run cold.

[cordes]

I have read that the time required for heat exchange between coolant and the rad is not enough that it needs to be "slowed down" by a T-stat in all but the most extreme cases, but that the T-stat does provide proper warmup and overall cooling. Comments?

[turbovanman²]

I have read that the time required for heat exchange between coolant and the rad is not enough that it needs to be "slowed down" by a T-stat in all but the most extreme cases, but that the T-stat does provide proper warmup and overall cooling. Comments?

It all depends on the rad and setup. I have read that coolant can move too slowly or too fast, there is a perfect balance in there somewhere.

I have found that cars/trucks with good cooling systems run cold without a thermostat, a vehicle with a bad rad etc will run hot with or without one.