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Thread: Getting ready for it to run...

  1. #1
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    Getting ready for it to run...

    Well my head will be done today at the machine shop, it checked out good, and i had him install new valve seals. Well i know the trans had atf in it so i drained that and now gonna put new fluid in it. What weight do i want to run in the trans, quakerstate 5w30?? im unsure on brand but thinking 5w30. how about for the engine. i wanna run syn. but dont want it to leak after all the crap inside gets flushed out. what is my second best choice? mobile clean 5000 10w40??? im still unsure. next for the head bolts i know you are suppost to soak them in oil before you tighten them down? what weight, and i think i know where i can find the tq specs. thanks

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    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    Trans, run dino 10w30, other options are GM Synchromesh, Manual MTX not the 80/90 stuff.

    Engine, use 10w30 or 10w40 synthetic oil, it will only leak if it was badly carboned up or leaking anyways.

    Headbolts, don't soak them, you put oil on the treads and under the bolt to washer. Best is to use ARP moly lube.
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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    Quote Originally Posted by 1966 dart wagon View Post
    Well my head will be done today at the machine shop, it checked out good, and i had him install new valve seals. Well i know the trans had atf in it so i drained that and now gonna put new fluid in it. What weight do i want to run in the trans, quakerstate 5w30?? im unsure on brand but thinking 5w30. how about for the engine. i wanna run syn. but dont want it to leak after all the crap inside gets flushed out. what is my second best choice? mobile clean 5000 10w40??? im still unsure. next for the head bolts i know you are suppost to soak them in oil before you tighten them down? what weight, and i think i know where i can find the tq specs. thanks
    I always ran 10-40 Penzoil or something similar that is NOT synthetic as some people complained about the synchro's not working correctly with too slippery of an oil like Mobil1. So... Quaker state like you said should be fine, but I always used 10-40.

    I always used mobil1 in my engine...it did have a few leaks, but that is kinda typical with a TD anyways. be careful not to use silicone on the turbo oil lines and the turbo's drainback tube. Same with delicate oil passages around the camshaft end cap. use anerobic sealer there.

    Tourque specs... I reccomend using a new MP headgasket and MP bolts. You could get away with re-using the stock headbolts, but they are torque to yield bolts and are probably pretty tired now. MP headgasket and bolts are cheaper than felpro and especially factory OEM bolts. (and better) Not one HG failure from the MP gasket and bolts.

    45ftlbs, then 65ftlbs, the 1/4 turn. I like to start around 25ftls, then 45, then 65. Check the specs to make sure I am not off going from memory.

    Oil on the threads...not a good idea. All you want is a tiny drop on the threads. Run a thread chaser through the holes, 1st or an old headbolt back and forth with a drill or something, alot of brake cleaner as well and compressed air. If the threads have too much oil on them, the bolts will prematurely bottom out from the oil squeezing at the bottom of the blind tapped hole in the block. Just put one drop on the clean threads and wipe it around the thread with your fingers and that's it.
    Quote Originally Posted by 22mopar
    have a look at my feedback on the forum. all positive.

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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    Headbolts, don't soak them, you put oil on the treads and under the bolt to washer. Best is to use ARP moly lube.

    Yes, a drop under the heads of the bolts and the bottoms of the washers, too, to reduce friction.

    But.... do NOT use ARP moly lube, or any moly lube of any sorts. This will result in improper loading of the bolt. You will essentially be overtorquing the headbolt as the moly lube reduces friction vs motor oil quite considerably. If using oil and torqueing to 65ftlbs, you'll be putting the same load on the bolt with moly lube as if you torqued it to 75ftlbs or possibly more. The lube really does make that much of a difference. I see it when I torque rods at work and verifying with a torque stretch gauge.

    Ex: New arp bolts for SBC call for .0057-.0063" stretch at 50lbs with moly. We use a certain lube that GM used to reccomend called CMD #3 high pressure lube which is supposed to be about the same as using straight 30wt oil which is what they used to use for lube back in the day. At 55ftlbs with CMD#3, I see .0045 stretch on a new bolt vs the 50ftlbs @ .006 they need. Fortunately, no failures due to the under-loading of these bolts (which bugs me fwiw...but i do as I am told)
    Quote Originally Posted by 22mopar
    have a look at my feedback on the forum. all positive.

    Steve

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  5. #5
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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    Trans, run dino 10w30, other options are GM Synchromesh, Manual MTX not the 80/90 stuff.

    Engine, use 10w30 or 10w40 synthetic oil, it will only leak if it was badly carboned up or leaking anyways.

    Headbolts, don't soak them, you put oil on the treads and under the bolt to washer. Best is to use ARP moly lube.
    thanks but what is dino, is that the brand? i put in into google and got mobil 1

  6. #6
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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    regular oil, non synthetic

  7. #7
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    Re: Getting ready for it to run...

    dino is slang for non synthetic oil. dino=dinosaur=fossilized fuels, etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by 22mopar
    have a look at my feedback on the forum. all positive.

    Steve

    '90 VNT competition package Shadow - T-III SC6262 conversion/restoration
    '91 Spirit R/T - white
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    '92 IROC R/T - red
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