Best way to eliminate cutout.

[Tony Lane]

I caught a whiff of inspiration after reading Terry's threads, think stock 2.5 P-body laying down 13.6's in the 1/4...

I'd like an affordable way to raise the boost beyond the cutout, 14.7 psi. It's getting old seeing the same blue LED light up every time on my Dawes.

I'm driving an '88 Shelby Daytona with the stock goodies, minus the g-valve, bov, and Walbro 255.

What's the most cost efficient, safest way to bypass the fuel cut?

-New cal from FWDP or TU - $100+
-Zener Diode (will that work like it does on the kick panel LMs found in pre 1987 cars) - $20
-3Bar Racing Fuel Cut Eliminator - $40

That's all I am aware of as far as products that will eliminate the fuel cut.

Thoughts?

[1FastCSX289]

I caught a whiff of inspiration after reading Terry's threads, think stock 2.5 P-body laying down 13.6's in the 1/4...

I'd like an affordable way to raise the boost beyond the cutout, 14.7 psi. It's getting old seeing the same blue LED light up every time on my Dawes.

I'm driving an '88 Shelby Daytona with the stock goodies, minus the g-valve, bov, and Walbro 255.

What's the most cost efficient, safest way to bypass the fuel cut?

-New cal from FWDP or TU - $100+
-Zener Diode (will that work like it does on the kick panel LMs found in pre 1987 cars) - $20
-3Bar Racing Fuel Cut Eliminator - $40

That's all I am aware of as far as products that will eliminate the fuel cut.

Thoughts?

I would use a custom cal. IT may not be the cheapest route, but probably the safest. There are guys on the forum here that would write something for you for a lot less than 100 bucks. This is the age of D-cal! But you would need injectors and a MAP.

[iTurbo]

I use MAP clamps from MM Racing. $15.

[Speedeuphoria]

or you could use another bleed for the map