Daytona lights on, Doors DOWN!

[cavhero]

Old problem, I know. But new for me. I pulled the main headlamp switch on last night (good thing it wasnt totally dark!) And my Dash lights came on, but the headlight doors did not deploy....

So, here is what I have done:

Checked fuses (#16/25amp)headlamp motor fuse- OK
Swapped out headlamp module under the dash- no change-same problems.
Have checked all fusible lings, connectors, cannot see anything wrong, unplugged , or out of place, or, signs of arcing, or shorts.

Anyone? I really dont want to roll with them cranked into the manual/open position...looks retarded.

desertsnake1991@yahoo.com

[mcsvt]

I'd try putting power straight to the motor to make sure it's working as my next step.

[DC Turismo]

I needed to search for Barry's post from back in February. Here's his recommendation, and it works:

There are two items controlling the headlights motors in the 1990 Daytona (and only that year). There is a body controller module in the kick panel that controls the locks, headlights, & turn signals among other items. If it fails, it goes into default mode and leaves the headlights up.

The first trouble I had with my lights was a bad body computer. A re-man one from the dealer parts dept fixed it. But less than a year later the light motors would work at times and then not. And they would stick in either up or down position. And then at times they would work fine for a week or two.

This went on for some time. I ordered a new headlamp controller module (without ever seeing mine) from the dealer. I got the old style module but didn't know it was the wrong one. By the time I discovered it was the wrong one, I couldn't take it back (it's an electrical item).

I have a friend that was getting me used modules (the correct ones) from the junkyard. I took one of these apart and and also the new one from the dealer. The same kind of relays are used in both modules. I rebuilt one of the junkyard modules with parts from the new module. Swapped all 3 relays and the diodes also.

It worked for a while, then started getting erratic again. I started manually cranking the headlights up with the knobs under the hood. But the module seemed to work fine bringing them down at times. So for a long time I just unhooked the module with the lamps up and drove it like that. You do not need the module for the lights themselves to work, only the motors.

Finally last summer I found the problem. It is a design flaw or manufacturing problem. I've now found it in two of the modules I have. The pins for the connector develop cracks in their solder joint to the circuit board.

If you are fairly certain the problem you are having with your headlamp motors is the headlamp module and not the body controller module, I may be able to help you fix it. But you need to be able to solder.

In the 1990 Daytona the headlamp module mounts on the left side of the steering column down by the floor. It is like a small block 3x3x1.5".

1. Pull the module out of the car, and with a razor knife, carefully cut the case apart on the seam where it is glued together. When all done you will be able to glue the top back onto the body of the case.

2. Use your razor knife again to go around the perimeter of the gel. Loosening it so that the board with the gel compound can be removed from the body of the case. It will come out without too much struggle.

3. On the back side of the board remove all the gel only in the area of the connector.

4. Resolder all the connector pin joints to the circuit board.

5. Before you put the board back in the case. Go try it in the car. You might have to bring the wiring harness connector forward some to do this.

If all else fails, leave the box hang down below the dash and hit it a couple of times and retry the switch.