Oil Pump Differences?

[Chris W]

You drill out the little cap then install a screw and pry it out. The spring will pop out and then the relief valve will fall out, or it should. If its an older pump, clean it up, lube the relief valve and make sure it moves freely, if not, you will have too much or no oil pressure. The valve goes in with the hollow end facing up. Install the spring then the cap, the hollow part faces up. Tap it down and install the cotter pin. BAM, your done.


Your welcome Andreas.

The cap should be installed with the concave portion facing in, not out. Facing the concave portion outward will create too much pressure.

Chris-TU

[turbovanman²]

The cap should be installed with the concave portion facing in, not out. Facing the concave portion outward will create too much pressure.

Chris-TU

Ok, I reitterate, just watch the way it comes out, lol!

[Chris W]

Ok, I reitterate, just watch the way it comes out, lol!

No problem Simon, I'm sure that's what you meant to say In the past we have had several turbos come in for warranty repair that were perfectly fine. When using HP/HV pumps the turbo bearing cavity cannot drain fast enough and the pressure forces the oil past the turbo piston seals. Most people automatically think the turbo seals have failed and send in the turbo. Keep in mind that the oil drain is powered by gravity not pressure. All that is required to resolve the issue is reducing the P/V so the oil can drain properly.

Chris-TU

[iTurbo]

Chris, I have a rebuilt TII turbocharger on my Omni GLH that I bought from you guys a couple years ago. It's doing great, but I am having a problem with oil coming out of my compressor housing and collecting in the intercooler. I really don't think it's the turbo at fault here because it boosts just fine, minimal shaft play, and sounds completely normal.

The engine is an '89 2.5L TI with over 210k miles on it. It still has good compression and makes good vacuum at idle so I think the engine is fine. The oil pump is a Melling H/V. I'm getting pretty high oil pressure, even with the car fully warmed up. I haven't verified oil pressure with a gauge, but with a new Mopar oil pressure sender, the factory gauge is showing about 3/4. Is there any way to correct this without swapping out the oil pump for the standard Mopar pump?

[Chris W]

Chris, I have a rebuilt TII turbocharger on my Omni GLH that I bought from you guys a couple years ago. It's doing great, but I am having a problem with oil coming out of my compressor housing and collecting in the intercooler. I really don't think it's the turbo at fault here because it boosts just fine, minimal shaft play, and sounds completely normal.

The engine is an '89 2.5L TI with over 210k miles on it. It still has good compression and makes good vacuum at idle so I think the engine is fine. The oil pump is a Melling H/V. I'm getting pretty high oil pressure, even with the car fully warmed up. I haven't verified oil pressure with a gauge, but with a new Mopar oil pressure sender, the factory gauge is showing about 3/4. Is there any way to correct this without swapping out the oil pump for the standard Mopar pump?

Here's a reference guide I wrote up a while back. You can call me directly if you wish so we can go over your set up:

TROUBLE SHOOTING

EXHAUST STILL SMOKES:

There are many things, which could cause a new or rebuilt turbo to smoke.
Here are just a few common causes and their solutions:

#1
Cause: Existing oil in exhaust system still burning off from previous turbo
failure.
Solution: Continue running car until smoke disappears. Plan on replacing
Catalytic convertor soon because burnt oil will quickly restrict air flow and
lead to other problems later including turbo failure.

#2
Cause: Oil pressures build up in Turbo Bearing Housing caused by one or all of
the following reasons:

1) Restriction in oil drainback tube/line.
2) Oil feedline pressure exceeds drainback tube capabilities.
3) Blow-by in crankcase caused by worn engine, cracked pistons,
rings, faulty PVC systems, etc.

Solution: 1) This could be caused by one or all of the following three things:

a) Wrong type of drainback hose.
Verify there are no foreign objects in drainback tube/hose.
This could be the paper towel or duct tape you placed there during the
removal of your original turbo to prevent anything from falling in to your
oil pan during the swap. This also includes not using the factory silicon
drainback hose. These are heat and oil resistant hoses where most other
hoses cannot withstand these extreme conditions for very long. Most
automotive hoses are actually 2 hoses (inner and outer) separated by braided
nylon. When this is used in place of the silicon hose the nylon can actually
shrink from the heat restricting the inner hose while leaving the outer hose
looking perfect from the outside. Use the factory hose whenever possible.
There are no advantages to using any other type of hoses for this
application. Turbo removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston
seals should reseat on their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.
b) Oil return flange gasket issues
This is a “dry” gasket so do not use RTV on it. Even the slightest bit that
may get squeezed into the flow of the return oil will impede the gravitational
flow of oil back into your oil pan. Pressure will build up in the turbo bearing
housing to the point where oil is pushed past the seals. Remove all RTV from the
area and replace the gasket. Seals will reseat on their own.

c) Wrong oil drainback line angle.
Turbo oil drainback is powered only by gravity. Angles in excess of 20
degrees will impede oil return flow and pressure build up in the bearing
housing may result. Also be sure to maintain a smooth curve from turbo to
engine and prevent any kinks in the line, which may cause a back-up and
eventual pressurization of the bearing housing.

2) Verify oil pressure is not excessive. 60 PSI at idle for a
warmed up engine is WAY too much. 10psi per 1000 RPM is a good rule of
thumb. To much oil can pressurize the turbo bearing housing if the gravity fed
drainback cannot keep up. This pressurization will force the oil past the turbine
shaft piston seals and into the exhaust or compressor side of the turbo.
Over time, too much pressure can actually be harmful to your entire engine.
With excessive pressure, impurities in your oil can actually eat away at your
bearing surfaces and increase tolerances much like extrude honing works.
Conclusion: Don't use the MP Oil Pressure Relief Spring Kit unless you
absolutely have to but remove it right away if your turbo smokes. Turbo
removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat on
their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

3) Crank cases pressurized by blow-by can also cause oil to be
forced past the turbine shaft piston seals. Complete a compression check and
leakdown test to check the condition of your engine. There is also a blow-by
detection tool which is placed over the oil cap opening while the engine is
running and measures crank case pressures. Be sure to inspect your crank
case evacuation system to make sure the issue is not being caused by a bad
PVC valve. If you find your oil dipstick out of the tube a few inches after
some spirited driving you are most likely experiencing blow-by. Turbo
removal not required. Once issue is addressed piston seals should reseat on
their own and oil seepage will no longer be a problem.

If you have any questions about the above don’t hesitate to contact us.

GOOD LUCK!
Chris-TU
602-76-BOOST

[iTurbo]

Thanks Chris. It never smokes, so i think my problem is a combination of excessive oil pressure and/or crankcase pressure due to a half-assed PCV system I need to fix. I'm going to fix the PCV and add a crankcase evac system via the exhaust.

[Chris W]

Thanks Chris. It never smokes, so i think my problem is a combination of excessive oil pressure and/or crankcase pressure due to a half-assed PCV system I need to fix. I'm going to fix the PCV and add a crankcase evac system via the exhaust.

That should help out alot. Let me know how it works out after the fix.

Good Luck!

Chris-TU