Braided Stainless Fuel Lines

[The S is Silent]

I want to upgrade to braided stialness steel lines for my charger because the fuel rail and the FPR will already have the capabilities for AN fittings.

What do I have to get, and were can I get fittings? To adapt the stock hard lines, do I get flare fittings, and a coupler to attach it to the stainless line? And what is an AN fitting anyways???

[TurbododgePirate]

I'd like to know as well. I have some very nice 3/8" SS fuel line in the basement, but have no idea how to attach it to the pump, and the AFPR. Oh, I have a double flaring tool as well.

[87glhs232]

http://www.chassisshop.com

Page 126 of their catalog has a diagram of a hard line flare and fittings. The pages before and after have various parts, lines and other stuff needed. There is also a AN to SAE conversion table somewhere in there.

EDIT: I've used Earl's fittings before for auto tranny lines. Great stuff. A little pricey for your average TD'er, but it's highly recommended. I'm also collecting parts to AN my fuel system.

[The S is Silent]

Awesome catalog. I've glanced through it, and it's just the thing I need. How do you attach the fittings to the ends of the braided stainless lines though? I thought they had to be clamped on or something like that.

edit...nevermind, I think I found it at the end. It looks like the fitting grabs it.

[87glhs232]

Awesome catalog. I've glanced through it, and it's just the thing I need. How do you attach the fittings to the ends of the braided stainless lines though? I thought they had to be clamped on or something like that.

edit...nevermind, I think I found it at the end. It looks like the fitting grabs it.

Yep. It's a compression fitting.

[The S is Silent]

Are the fittings shown on page 4 of the Earl's plumbing catalog flare to compression fittings? So I'd flare the tubing, and the compression end would hold the stainless steel tubing?

[The S is Silent]

I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

[turbovanman²]

I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

Have you looked into the lines that have threaded fittings already on. I buy mine like this and then you just buy one fitting to hook up to whatever your hooking up to. I did that for my oil line and fuel pressure guage. Earls makes the line.

[The S is Silent]

Have you looked into the lines that have threaded fittings already on. I buy mine like this and then you just buy one fitting to hook up to whatever your hooking up to. I did that for my oil line and fuel pressure guage. Earls makes the line.

I didn't see anything like that in the catalog. The largest line I have seen in the catalog like that is an -3 AN fitting. Where can I get -6 AN tubing with the fittings already attached?

[turbovanman²]

Earls makes the lines, I used Earls -4 for the oil and fuel lines and they make other sizes. If you look at this pic, you will see the fitting on the line-

[Chris W]

I just looked through the catalog at what I think I need to do stainless lines with a TU billet fuel rail...

about 5 feet of line (not sure) - $40.95 @ $8.19/ft
3x -6 AN straight connectors (for the fuel feed and return lines, and rail supply)- $23.61 @ $7.87/ea
180* -6 AN connector for return end of the rail - $24.33
-6 AN to 3/8 in pipe thread for universal FPR - $20.20 @ $10.10/ea

Using that company, it would cost $110 to do tubing...if the fuel rail has female AN fittings. About $120 if not. This is all with billet fittings.

Matt,

We now carry all those items in stock including the unique fittings that go in the Accufab Universal AFPR. Our pricing is competitive and I will try to add the items tonight. I won't have pictures for a couple of days though.

Chris-TU

[The S is Silent]

Matt,

We now carry all those items in stock including the unique fittings that go in the Accufab Universal AFPR. Our pricing is competitive and I will try to add the items tonight. I won't have pictures for a couple of days though.

Chris-TU

Thanks Chris,

I ordered the fuel rail and AFPR today. I'll keep an eye out for the lines.

What are the inlet and outlet ports on the Fuel rails? Are they AN fittings, or NPT?

edit: I see fuel rail accessories...almost there.

[Chris W]

Thanks Chris,

I ordered the fuel rail and AFPR today. I'll keep an eye out for the lines.

What are the inlet and outlet ports on the Fuel rails? Are they AN fittings, or NPT?

edit: I see fuel rail accessories...almost there.

Hi Matt,

All accessories are up there now. I haven't gotten around to taking all the pics yet but they are all currently in stock. Fuel rail ends are 3/8 NPT to -6AN. Be sure to order the unique AFPR fittings required for the Accufab Universal AFPR (see photo). They are impossible to find but we did.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...7232#post17232

Thanks for your continued support!

Chris-TU

[turbovanman²]

Thats some wicked pricing, even with my killer discount, your way cheaper on the lines,

[The S is Silent]

Would I get into trouble using brass or steel fittings in the fuel rail?

[Chris W]

Would I get into trouble using brass or steel fittings in the fuel rail?

I would stick with the aluminum since we have all know what steel plugs do in an aluminum TIII cylinder head. Besides, some steel/brass fittings use different angles and won't seal correctly.

Chris-TU

[giftedmopar]

I didn't read the whole thread so I don't know if you are looking to replace the line all the way back to the tank. If not you may want to come off of your 5/16 fuel feed tube (which is plenty big). To do this you will need a -5 tube nut, -5 sleeve and a -5 to -6 male to male. You will need to cut the tube as straight as possible to get the best flare. I cut mine just past the first turn after removing it from the car and making sure there was no fuel in it. Slip the nut, then the sleeve on and then flare it. The -5 to -6 fitting will compress the tube sleeve and flare for a nice leak free high pressure fit. From that I was able to determine where to cut the SS line. I also included a block in mine for a pressure gauge. Make sure you wrap that line tightly in some duct tape before you cut it or you will frey it and spend the next few hours trying to get the other fittings on it while pricking your fingers until they are raw. I don’t recommend a hack saw either. I used Aeroquip aluminum fittings I got from FWDperformance.com along with their billet fuel rail. PM me if you want the Aeroquip numbers or some pics, I think I still have that info. Good luck.

[87glhs232]

Make sure you wrap that line tightly in some duct tape before you cut it or you will frey it and spend the next few hours trying to get the other fittings on it while pricking your fingers until they are raw. I don’t recommend a hack saw either

Some good advice there. I thought about that, but forgot to mention it. I learned the hard way about taping it up. If you do use a hacksaw, get a new blade.

[cordes]

Some good advice there. I thought about that, but forgot to mention it. I learned the hard way about taping it up. If you do use a hacksaw, get a new blade.

I just usewd some masking tape and a new hacksaw blade myself. The guy at the hydrolics place that cut the line used masking tape, and his cut looked good enough to me. A lot easier to remove too.

[The S is Silent]

Thanks for all the info guys. I saw the bit about taping before you can and will definitely do that. As for lines and fittings, there is a place in Greenville that all the racers go to to get fittings and lines. I'm gonna see what I can get there before I spend any money on this.

Or I was thinking of going through here: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/