Finally got started!

[Lee'sdaytona]

Ok folks, for the past year I've been all talk. But today, "Operation Convert Turbo-Minivan to 5-spd" has begun! I have some pictures to share for your enjoyment, and I have a few questions. I've been following the directions on the dodge garage.com.
After installing my clutch pedal, it says to hook up my clutch cable. I can't remember or see how the little ball end of the cable attaches to the pedal. Does the pedal have to come out to do this?
Can I take my auto tranny out much like I did the A-520, using the directions from R&R a clutch? (IE safely drop the auto tranny on the ground without cracking the case or hurting myself?)
My only real concern is clutch alignment. I really would hate to get everything back in place and find out that the clutch won't disengage or engage. I have a new PP and clutch going in, with the input alignment tool. What should I do to make sure I don't have this problem?
thanks a bunch!
-Lee

[turbovanman²]

You pull the trans like any other car, the van has lots of room but its still a bit tricky, you do need to support the engine at the same time.

Do all the cables, wiring changes before you put the 5 speed in. Yes, the clutch alignment tool will be fine. Make sure to put some liquid teflon on the flywheel bolts and use the longer ones too. Reverse will be the same but now your installing a lighter trans.

[Lee'sdaytona]

You pull the trans like any other car, the van has lots of room but its still a bit tricky, you do need to support the engine at the same time.

Do all the cables, wiring changes before you put the 5 speed in. Yes, the clutch alignment tool will be fine. Make sure to put some liquid teflon on the flywheel bolts and use the longer ones too. Reverse will be the same but now your installing a lighter trans.

Ok so now here's my questions(and thank you for answering the first questions ):
Supporting the engine is fairly easy---block of wood and jack under the oil pan. BUT, while the trans is removed, I want to change the main bearings. What should I do? I have all new poly mounts already installed, which I don't want to damage by letting the engine hang from two mounts. Next question: I read something about using a Daytona manual trans mount?? I just scrapped my daytona and forgot to grab it!! doh! Does this mean I need a different metal bracket part of the mount and I can still use my minivan poly trans mount? Is it possible to use the original auto minivan trans mount? (my van is an 89 if it matters)
Now, the longer flywheel bolts? I had planned to use the ones that came out of my 2.2 from the daytona. That isn't good? How can I get longer flywheel bolts then?

[Turbodave]

Ok so now here's my questions(and thank you for answering the first questions ):
Supporting the engine is fairly easy---block of wood and jack under the oil pan. BUT, while the trans is removed, I want to change the main bearings. What should I do? I have all new poly mounts already installed, which I don't want to damage by letting the engine hang from two mounts. Next question: I read something about using a Daytona manual trans mount?? I just scrapped my daytona and forgot to grab it!! doh! Does this mean I need a different metal bracket part of the mount and I can still use my minivan poly trans mount? Is it possible to use the original auto minivan trans mount? (my van is an 89 if it matters)
Now, the longer flywheel bolts? I had planned to use the ones that came out of my 2.2 from the daytona. That isn't good? How can I get longer flywheel bolts then?

I've changed rod bearings in the car, but never mains. You can support the engine from above. I used to us a 4x4 piece of wood across the fenders with a length of chain wrapped around it before I bought a fancy engine support bar.

The trans mount is different from an auto to a 5speed, so the one off your auto trans won't work.

As long as the flywheel bolts are from a manual trans car that's fine. The flywheel is thicker on a stick car, so longer bolts are used.

[raccoon]

nice floors!

[Lee'sdaytona]

I've changed rod bearings in the car, but never mains. You can support the engine from above. I used to us a 4x4 piece of wood across the fenders with a length of chain wrapped around it before I bought a fancy engine support bar.

Where would I bolt the chain to? I can't wrap it around the bottom....Maybe wher the trans bolts up, I could hook a chain on and run one of the trans mounting bolts back in?

The trans mount is different from an auto to a 5speed, so the one off your auto trans won't work.

Sooo....just the metal mount is different? I sure hope I can just get a manual mount, and install my poly bushing from the auto mount to the manual mount. Seems they only sold one type of bushing. Anyone have a manual mount to sell?

thanks,
Lee

[Lee'sdaytona]

nice floors!

Thanks. I really lucked out with this van. Pretty rust free accept the rear wheel wells and a small spot by the gas tank and small spot on the sliding door. I need to get that fixed
I bought this van with only 107,000 miles!
-Lee

[Turbodave]

Where would I bolt the chain to? I can't wrap it around the bottom....Maybe wher the trans bolts up, I could hook a chain on and run one of the trans mounting bolts back in?


Sooo....just the metal mount is different? I sure hope I can just get a manual mount, and install my poly bushing from the auto mount to the manual mount. Seems they only sold one type of bushing. Anyone have a manual mount to sell?

thanks,
Lee

I usually use one of the bolt holes in the cylinder head to hang the drivers side of the engine from.

I think the mount insert is the same. I've got a few mounts somewhere, but it would take me a few weeks to find one most likely. Try putting a posted in the "wanted" section here.

[Lee'sdaytona]

I usually use one of the bolt holes in the cylinder head to hang the drivers side of the engine from.

I think the mount insert is the same. I've got a few mounts somewhere, but it would take me a few weeks to find one most likely. Try putting a posted in the "wanted" section here.

ok, I'll do that. Thanks.

Just a few updated pictures. Today I modified my steering column, installed the clutch cable to the pedal, and reassembled my interrior. Here's a tip: Dig up one of your many non-working Daytona factory boost gauges. Dismantle and cut out the TURBO lettering. Remove the P RND21 mess, and epoxy in the turbo plastic piece. Light will still show through the letters and light green at night, making it look stock. Its crazy to install the indicator light when it won't work on a turbo computer. Whadda ya think? Check the pictures below. I may try to send that suggestion over to the Dodge Garage.
-Lee

[Turbodave]

The turbo decal looks good there. On my van the original dash just said "Front Drive" in that spot (it's a 5spd van from the factory).

When I swapped in a tach dash I added a Dawes Device in that spot and used the boost gauge and tach face from a 90 Daytona turbo to put in a factory looking boost gauge.

[Lee'sdaytona]

The turbo decal looks good there. On my van the original dash just said "Front Drive" in that spot (it's a 5spd van from the factory).

When I swapped in a tach dash I added a Dawes Device in that spot and used the boost gauge and tach face from a 90 Daytona turbo to put in a factory looking boost gauge.

Thanks for the compliment! I forgot about the front drive decal. I was wondering what factory turbo 5-spd vans got since they didn't get the shift light. I like the turbo letters better over front drive...looks cooler IMO
-Lee

[Dusty_Duster]

That gauge console looks nice!

[Lee'sdaytona]

Which one? haha, I think Turbodave has more time put into his...although I installed an autometer oil gauge where the stock one was, and took time to paint all the needles...mine were the typical faded white/clear color, and I went to a hobby shop and asked for a translucent orange color, and got a little tiny can...worked great!
TurboDave, I like the way you did the tach/boost gauge from a newer daytona...I'm guessing you used the old needle so it would look original? As for the dawes device, I never used one, and I have an autometer A/F gauge, so I've gotten used to that, plus its entertaining for my new passengers to watch the dancing lights
-Lee

[Lee'sdaytona]

Hey by the way, did you ever get your tach straightened out? I remember when you first posted this picture, I noticed your engine was running according to the boost gauge, but your tach was close to zero.
-Lee

[Turbodave]

I did get the tach fixed, just had to look at the rpm with my scan tool and put the needle back on in the right spot. I painted the needles also, they were nearly white when I went to install them.

The tach in mine is the stock minivan one, but the decal and boost gauge mechanicals are from the Daytona.

[Lee'sdaytona]

ok an update here. I had to throw in the towl before I hurt myself or broke something. I removed all the trans bolts and the mount is completely removed. For the life of me, I can't get the transmission to drop! I've had it as far off the block as 4 or 5 inches, and I can't tell whats getting hung up. Possibly my problem is I have a little jack on the oil pan supporting the engine. I don't want to ruin my poly engine mounts by just letting the engine hang. Only other thing I can think is I did not remove the casting where the passenger's axle is inserted, and where the SDS is located. Maybe that is catching on the rear mount? Anyone have any experiance with this problem? The case will either hit the sheet metal by the mount, or the side of the trans will hit the frame just behind the control arm. HELP!!
thanks,
Lee

[Turbodave]

I usually remove the entire front engine mount, that lets you move the engine/trans forward a little to provide clearance from the K-frame.

You did remove the torque convertor bolts already right?

[Lee'sdaytona]

I usually remove the entire front engine mount, that lets you move the engine/trans forward a little to provide clearance from the K-frame.

Is that safe? Leaving only the pass side mount to do the job of holding the engine?

You did remove the torque convertor bolts already right?

Um...no....I thought you had to get the bell housing off so you could accesss the torque converter? So with that little room, I should use a wratchet wrench or something to remove the torque converter?
thanks,
Lee

[BIGBRUDDA]

I just located a 5speed van (Plymouth N/A) at the local pull-n-pay. Lemme know if ya got all your parts.

[Lee'sdaytona]

I have all I need accept the 5-spd trans mount. I have the poly bushing, but need the actual mount....I'm waiting on a response from a friend that I gave a bunch-o-parts to to see if he has one. If your up to it, get all the 5-spd parts from it and sell them here...those packages rake in some bucks. ---Pedals, cables, trans mount, clutch cable and bracket, clutch pedal stop, shifter, console, ...and I think thats it....But I'm pretty set, if only I can get this auto tranny out
-Lee