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Thread: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

  1. #1
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    Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    What all do I need to add an in-line pump in-series with my in-tank pump?

    I wasn't able to find a replacement in-tank pump for my stock Walbro, which I believe is 190lph... so I need to add an in-line pump in-series with it. This is what I'm looking at right now...

    Aeromotive 11109 in-line fuel pump

    Aeromotive 15114 -8AN fuel pump fitting

    1/2" Blue anodized 25' aluminum fuel line

    -8AN hose to 1/2 tube fitting

    90 degree -8AN hose to -8AN O-ring fitting

    -8AN hoses to -8AN male fitting

    6' -8AN braided stainless steel hose

    What I'm trying to do is add the external fuel pump in-line with the stock in-tank pump, upgrade the 5/16" aluminum feed tube to 1/2" (-8AN), and upgrade the 5/16" return line to 1/2" as well. My Boomba fuel rail is -8AN, so basically trying to get -8AN all the way around... from tank to rail, and back to tank. My BEGi fuel pressure regulator is 1/8" NPT, so that's what the -8AN o-ring to 1/8" NPT adapter is for... mounting the FPR directly to the fuel rail on the return side.

    It seems like I'm missing something here... I don't know what I need inbetween the stock pump and the in-line pump. Do I need any kind of filter inbetween there? Some more braided stainless steel line? I guess I need to see if I can change the fitting on the stock pump out to something larger than 5/16, or find an adapter... Am I at least on the right track here?

  2. #2

    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Yup, sounds like it. A filter pre-secondary pump is always a good idea. A lot of guys even run another one after the pump as well.

    However you wire it, make sure it's off a relayed switch, and I would try to make a way for it to come on a hair after the stock pump as to not run the pump dry for too long. I have no idea wether the line will be dry all the way back there or not...

    A surge canister (like a big plenum) between the two pumps works even better with a gravity feed line to the big pump. That was the small pump isn't being drawn through at high load for extended periods of time.

  3. #3
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by 8valves View Post
    Yup, sounds like it. A filter pre-secondary pump is always a good idea. A lot of guys even run another one after the pump as well.

    However you wire it, make sure it's off a relayed switch, and I would try to make a way for it to come on a hair after the stock pump as to not run the pump dry for too long. I have no idea wether the line will be dry all the way back there or not...

    A surge canister (like a big plenum) between the two pumps works even better with a gravity feed line to the big pump. That was the small pump isn't being drawn through at high load for extended periods of time.
    Ack, I didn't even think about wiring... I'd think it'd only need a fraction of a second delay when starting the car... but it should be running at the same time as the stock pump the rest of the time, right?

    Would a filter like this Earl's Performance In-Line Fuel Filter be good enough?

  4. #4
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Just find a nice straight piece of pipe, cut it out, then add flare nuts and flare it, then you can add any combination of fittings. I did that on my van when I added a reuseable System 1 fuel filter.
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  5. #5
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by 8valves View Post
    A surge canister (like a big plenum) between the two pumps works even better with a gravity feed line to the big pump. That was the small pump isn't being drawn through at high load for extended periods of time.

    heres some info on the surge tank, although not sure if you'll really need it
    http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm

  6. #6
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by Speedeuphoria View Post
    heres some info on the surge tank, although not sure if you'll really need it
    http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm
    Hmm good info, not sure I will need it though.

    Another question popped into my head on this one... Is it possible to convert a Walbro 255lph model GRJ444 meant for the SRT-4/PT Cruiser as an in-tank replacement, into an in-line pump? I have this pump, it wouldn't fit in the canister to replace my stock pump. If I can use it as an in-line pump, that'd save me from having to buy a new pump and trying to sell this one.

  7. #7
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Usually no as there designed to be cooled by sitting inside fuel. Also, if you run it outside, it will be friggin noisey,
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  8. #8
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
    Just find a nice straight piece of pipe, cut it out, then add flare nuts and flare it, then you can add any combination of fittings. I did that on my van when I added a reuseable System 1 fuel filter.
    I'm pretty sure that stock Stratus fuel lines are plastic, and this wouldn't necessarily work. Though I don't know if he has upgraded to steel lines or braided lines. If in the unlikely event that he has not, Dorman makes a great kit for plastic fuel line repair for around 150 bucks I think that can be used to press new quck-connect fittings into a plastic line.

    Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if the Stratus line would be simmilar to my old Neon line, short plastic line from the pump, to a steel line that runs under the body. If this is the case you can do what turbovanman said and cut and flare lines, and you can even get away with compression fittings if you have to, but I would recommend the former.
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  9. #9
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    Quote Originally Posted by ShelbyTurbo View Post
    I'm pretty sure that stock Stratus fuel lines are plastic, and this wouldn't necessarily work. Though I don't know if he has upgraded to steel lines or braided lines. If in the unlikely event that he has not, Dorman makes a great kit for plastic fuel line repair for around 150 bucks I think that can be used to press new quck-connect fittings into a plastic line.

    Now that I think about it, I'm not sure if the Stratus line would be simmilar to my old Neon line, short plastic line from the pump, to a steel line that runs under the body. If this is the case you can do what turbovanman said and cut and flare lines, and you can even get away with compression fittings if you have to, but I would recommend the former.
    It's steel, or possibly aluminum 5/16" line that runs under the car between the tank and the engine bay. Right now I have something similar to the plastic repair kit you're talking about, only it wasn't nearly that expensive. I got it from O'reilly's, and only for temporary use to get it running. The only reason I got it, is because on the Stratus/Sebring Sedans, the fuel is fed into the fuel rail on the drivers side of the engine bay. I have a Boomba SRT-4 fuel rail now, and the SRT-4 is fed from the passengers side. The stock formed plastic fuel line with the quick connect on each side, wouldn't reach, so I used the cheap plastic repair kit to make one long enough to reach.

    Now I am looking at going -8AN all the way around. If you look at my parts list in my first post, you'll see 1/2" Blue anodized 25' aluminum fuel line. I plan on using that to replace the 5/16 fuel line that currently runs under the car between the tank and engine bay. Then upgrading the crappy temporary plastic junk I have right now, to -8AN braided stainless steel line.

  10. #10
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    Re: Adding an in-line pump in-series with an in-tank pump?

    -8an is big, -6an(3/8") will support 600+hp

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