so the 4.58v is coming from the signal wire on the ecu, not from the sensor itself? thats weird. otherwise i would just say shorted tps but this one is weirder.
so the 4.58v is coming from the signal wire on the ecu, not from the sensor itself? thats weird. otherwise i would just say shorted tps but this one is weirder.
yup. thats why I am totally freaked out. If its an ECU problem then I have damaged all my ECU's by testing them on the spirit.
The duster is doing it now too.
So I dont know whats going on with the spirit that its causing these problems.
Still havent tried to start her and Im sure there will be problems...including the fact that the ford TB doesnt really have a TB blade screw that adjusts (its just a stud) so I dont know if the engine will idle and thats just among the other fouling problems and blah blah blah.
At least it looks decent.
Will try my best to get it running tomorrow (friday) then head to the midnight races (and remember my helmet)
She is running.
Vacuum is a bit higher with the cam gears advanced.
Still gottta check if it is fouling any plugs.
my buddy is taking out his 12 second sr20 nx2000 so I really want to make it to the track tonight...
Git R Dun! I'd like to go to the track, but we got 8" of rain and my car is running on 2-3 cylinders.
Yeah so my sr20 buddy blew a headgasket cause he car was running bad and he decided he would rather beat a mustang then let off :P
I had some horrible runs. I will post slips later.
Lots of drama too. My new brake pads were hitting the spacers but the butcher brothers pulled up next to me (they run a caryard and do the TD thing) and say "oh we have some spacers that will fit at our yard (1 block away from track) so they come back and help me swap the spacers then I get into the races (late!)
Summary of my runs
-----------------------------
1st gear = bye bye 2.139 60' ick
2nd gear SLICKS SPINNING @ 12psi
3rd gear = NOPE!!!!!!!no 3rd gear
I thought I broke something but I guess I just let the clutch out to fast. I have no practice with this solid hub 3 puck and I actually had clutch problems that made me late to the races (clutch not engaging all the way so I removed all the rubber gromets to get more slack in the clutch cable and then it worked)
4th Gear = yay car not broken (going about 45mph at this time)
Put car back into 3rd gear, hit limiter and then engine braked @ the 1000' mark
17.8@74
----------------------------------
So I practiced my 3rd gear shift in line and then dropped to 9.5psi in the slicks (24.5x8 r15)
1st gear = weeee 1.99 60' on my 2nd try ever with stock rear suspension too.
2nd gear = PING!!!!!!! NO 2nd!!! shifter cable clip pops out! I knew what happened the moment I heard that.
3rd gear = blah 3rd gear sucks @ 30mph.
Cant get out of 3rd gear when shifter cable is jacked. I hit the rev limiter in 3rd and then engine brake.
I lost 2mph on the top end lol
blah I wanted my 12!!!!!!!and I had the 60' for it easy
Had to drive past the timeslip shack and pull over so I could fix the shifter cable clip and then grab my slip (i am NOT going to try a 3rd gear start with my current clutch)
16.4@72 lol
my 1/8th mph was 74 and that was me going 1st to Nothing!..then coasting...and then shifting into 3rd
------------------------------------------
Then when i was changing my tires this ls1 camaro owner I know was talking lots of crap (according to friends sitting nearbye) cause after he ran once he spectated and he saw my poor times. He just ran a 13.9 (not spraying) on dot slicks and he thinks he can beat me on street tires (not spraying)
but I already know from last time that i have run a 13.8 on crappy drag radials and that was with no traction
Just funny to me.
Got home safe. No transmission dying on the way home
I will take pictures of the timeslips when I wake up tomorrow afternoon :P I didnt get home till 6 AM.
P.S. I think the dodge 3.5L AIS that is on my intake manifold is leaking boost because I was only making 5.0ish boost (should be more like 5.8psi on my .4 bar Tial spring)
Im not really sure though. I dont know how they work. If it is leaking I will just fix up something so it gets air from my IC piping and then I will have a closed system. Im not really sure if that is a good idea though.
There is video of my bad runs too lol
sounds like the wiring is broken somewhere between the ECU and the TPS... there is a pullup resistor in the ECU that pulls the signal voltage high and triggers a TPS code. you have a code for TPS right?
take a tps connector and solder it a few inches from the ECU and test it there. ive had tps problems before but its always the connector that connects to the TPS itself. sometimes a pin likes to back out and it looks connected but it isnt.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
my first run was actually a 1 - 2 - 1 shift :P
somehow I didnt break.
Trying to fix the shifter tonight.
Cables are way to kinked up how I have them so its almost impossible to move this POS shifter especially since its cut 3"
went for drive after fixing shifter but I think the transmissions is just not to happy about shifting in the higher rpms.
It sounds like your clutch might be dragging just a bit. Either that or you're shifting at 7500+ RPM's. What trans lube are you using? Also, does the trans grind when you go into reverse if you let the clutch out in neutral first?
I have not had the reverse problem
I did have the trans grind when shifting into 4th at higher rpms.
I am not quite used to this clutch and I had some adjutment problems with it NOT ENGAGING so I removed all the rubber bushings to get more slack in the cable and got it to engage.
I may not be doing a good job with the clutch when I am driving in the higher rpms.
probly just synchros. ive gotten into lots of cars that the owner has no shift complaint with, but if you try to shift it at high rpm the synchros arent doing their job.
you know, shift 1-2 at 2000 rpm and the synchro is only dropping 400 rpm. shift 1-2 at 7500 and its dropping 3000 rpm.. not work so well.
I thought this trans would be good cause there was almost no metal on the magnet
I also found that the external AIS is a HUGE boost leak.
I thought the car felt sorta lame for having the intake on there and I had noticed that I was not getting 5.8psi boost.
Hooked up my air compressor to the intake manifold and sprayed some soapy water in the AIS tube and all the water just blasted out the moment I hit the air.
Im welding a small pipe onto my intercooler piping so I can connect the AIS to the IC piping using some 5/8" heater hose and create a closed system.
Oh and then I have some pictures of broken wastegate tube with bad weld (i didnt weld it). That was my real problem :P
Here is another thing I found leaking today. I dont know how I was making boost at all. I knew the car felt really laggy when i went for a test drive a few days ago.
This was broken before or during my races last week when I couldnt get a full run.
Ceramic spray canned the weld. Not as good as the jet hot on there but the weld wont break now.
I just wanted to mention its my fault that broke.
I just remembered now that when i was installing the engine last time, I kept pushing on the wastegate tube really hard to reorient the engine and I actually remember hearing something crack once....so it was broken when I installed it and it must have fallen apart more when I had the wastegate bolted on (heavy) and it got hot.
hmm thats a lot of leakage, should be a BIG difference with them all fixed.
Yeah, I remember thinking "wow this feels laggy for having the cam gears advanced 8 degrees and having this intake on here. Power seems down a little bit too maybe???"
I'm glad something like this was wrong because now it might be a lot more insane to drive.
Whats funny is that even with that huge leak the tires would still blow off and hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear...just about 1000 or so rpms later.
good to hear that the manifold is fixed. you get the TPS thing figured out?
Brian
yeh, just face it, you've got an unstoppable beast there. its roar can only be delayed, never stopped. now go for 15 psi and 120mph traps. snap snap.Whats funny is that even with that huge leak the tires would still blow off and hit the rev limiter in 2nd gear...just about 1000 or so rpms later.
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