You need to do a lot more for traction then. Shim sway bar, rear air shocks, and relocated battery to passenger side is what I did with the daytona.
You need to do a lot more for traction then. Shim sway bar, rear air shocks, and relocated battery to passenger side is what I did with the daytona.
Doesnt help when you are spinning both.Originally Posted by moparzrule
To say.."whats the point of having a 9 second street car?" is no different then saying
"Whats the point of having a 12 or 13 second street car?"
the point is...having a fast street car.
Gary never made more then 440whp. Rod cap let loose on that dyno pull.
He never ran at the track with that much power.
his car weighed about 1950 pounds or less from what i remember
The air shocks do
The swaybar shim and relocated battery get you to spin both, you are already there though. The shocks keep the rear end from squatting plus on race day pump them up a bit more to have most of the weight of the car on the front tires. Made all the difference in the world in traction for me.
i've got an atb diff, the shim and bat trick won't help, although the bat is moved, and i have 1g dsm struts and springs in the rear, which are substantially stiffer, and the rear is lowered.
The shim and battery moved was the only thing that made me posi, before that is was one tire fires. So don't say it doesn't work because I had an open diff and spun both fronts.
The rear lowered is the WORST thing you can do for traction, no wonder how much trouble you have. Doesn't matter if it's stiffer, no coil spring made for our cars will be stiff enough to keep the rear from squatting with 400 HP up front. Jack it up!
I don't believe I'll be taking your advice...
Last edited by t3rse; 07-03-2007 at 10:51 AM. Reason: no point in arguing with a wall
The lower vs. higher rear height argument aside, I saw his car going down the track at SDAC. It has trouble hooking in multiple gears with slicks. Did you read what he wrote? He already has a torque biasing diff, he has relocated the battery etc (not that it matters with that style diff) and he still can't hook.
Your advise is great for somone who is not making a ton of power by today's standards, but there are a lot of guys putting down well over the HP amount you are speaking of. Telling these people that doing what Gary and Gus were doing 10 years ago will work is not very well thought out advise.
Umm, did you read my post? Apparently not. I said that we were already past that he was getting both tires spinning, I moved on to the rear end being so low as the reason why no traction.
What do you mean lower vs. higher rear height argument aside, thats most of the point of my posting, it makes all the difference it the world. I already said that even MY CAR wasn't getting traction as I was spinng BOTH fronts UNTIL I put the rear air shocks on. Did the bold letters help that time?
And like I said already like 3 times, there are a few SRT-4's in the 9's with FWD, they are getting traction somehow. And I'm the one who it's like talking to a wall?
Edit- Here's my quote from earlier, please note the bold letters-
Than have fun spinning your tires all day long while I get traction. If you have 400 HP and I have 300, I can still beat you because of traction. So you can stand there all day and bash my setup which has already proven results, you go try to work on your AWD setup and get no where. If you want AWD, get a DSM.
Like I said, I get 100% traction with only drag radials in first gear I could wind it the whole way out. Slicks EASILY hold 100 more hp than drag radials, probably more. Plus I was only running 60 PSI in the air shocks, they go to 100. Taking that into account, 450-500 HP is not out of range with getting full traction doing the things I have done to my car.
take it easy gazers lol.
Brian
Sorry, I thought you were suggesting that he had already moved the battery and shimmed the sway bar.
I would like to see what these 9 second SRTs are doing to get traction which we could do also. If it is so simple, I wonder why we are all failing to implement their superior techniques.
Well, I don't know that but I do know that they are all jacked up in the rear end. Maybe not from air shocks, but those 9 second SRT-4's aren't street car daily drivers. I do believe there are plenty of 10 second SRT-4 daily driver's though, I know a low 11 second car locally here....he's gonna shot a 50 shot to get into the 10's he told me but IMHO I've always believe N20 is cheating. Just my opinion.
Um
airshocks will do everything that shimming or moving the battery will do...therefore no point doing that mod.
The shim'd swaybar mod has been debunked from what I remember. Ive tried it. It does the opposite of helping.
There is a huge discussion about front/rear ride height in another thread about a car that actually makes power and goes fast....
You will find that raising the rear of the car will hurt traction in a FWD.
What works is going for max drop on all 4 corners and limiting weight transfer.
The srt-4's like the look of the jacked up rear end. Thats why they do it.
You dont get full traction in first gear @ the track with 300whp. Please dont mislead people like that. A first gear roll is quite different then launching at the track.
That is apples to oranges then. I know one of the main advantages of the srts is that they have the ability to run a larger slick easier than most of us, especially those in the L-bodies. Perhaps that has something to do with it.
I would say the best mod I did for traction was removing 300# from the rear of the car so the front weight bias is huge.
Not even comparable to pretend mods like shiming the swaybar.
With LSD Im not so worried about 1 perfect balance in front.
Perhaps, but are you going to make 700-800 HP like the SRT-4's do? Probably more like 400-500, and IMO it is possible to get traction with that.
Well since I went from one black streak on the pavement to 2 black streaks, I'd say that disproves calling the shim a ''pretend'' mod. Then I put on the air shocks and had full traction. Airshocks do not do the same thing, you wil still burn one tire with just air shocks in the rear, unless you only put one air shock in the driver side corner which is stupid.
Ah, 300 pounds from the rear would be great...but putting air shocks on does essentially the same thing, shifts the weight to the front. But less weight is better anyway, so if you can loose it go for it. I plan to loose a couple hundred pounds on my shadow as well.
I'm always scratching my head when people want to stick their battery in the trunk.
I was under the impression that a few killer mods for FWD traction for a strip only car were solid rear shocks, high pressure tires, (killing weight transfer) and fuel tank delete with fuel cell under the hood for better weight bias. Of course, those are not real streetable, so airbags to firm up the arse end are more of a compromise towards that.
When people do that, usually it's because they use their car for autoX not drag racing....if they do it on a drag car, yeah they're dumb.
I think my shadow will get even better traction than my daytona once I perform the same mods on it because the fuel tank is in the middle instead of in the back of the car. My plans for weight reduction is to take out all the speakers/radio, back seat, and cut the rear tire well out and make it flat there. The only rust on my car is the spare tire well, had about a 4X2'' hole in it, so thats another reason why I'm getting rid of it.
WHen you have airshocks you can run one stiffer then the other. Solves 1 tire spin problems, still keeps the rear end from moving.
you cant put more weight on the front end by jacking up the rear....and you kill the aerodynamics of the car when you do that.
Physically moving the weight to the front of the car is the only way to move weight.
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