Noticed my CTD is getting less MPG on the low sulphur diesel fuel. Maybe 1-2 less. Co-workers with diesel cars (VWs) are seeing 4 or more less. Was told this is due to the way the sulphur is removed in the US to save costs. Lowers the cetane rating, it appears, and haven't found too much so far to back this information up.
Anyone have similar experience or a source for the info?
Thanks in advance.
Denny
SDAC Member, Steel City Chapter SDAC Member, SV-SDAC member, SV-TD Member
www.sv-td.com
85 600 ES Turbo Conv., 91 Spirit R/T
2014 RAM Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab Dually. 6.7 CTD, AISIN, 4.10 gear
68 GS400 (owned since 1973, someday 455)
2012 Can-AM RT Limited
Well it's already been low sulfur for many years now, but now it just went to ''ultra'' low sulfur. This is actually kinda bad for diesel trucks as it does not lubricate the pumps properly. When I had my 94' I always added some kind if additive for lubrication. My brother does the same to his 02' 24 valve.
But to answer your question, yes the lower the sulfur the less MPG you get. It's all a conspiracy of the oil company's. They say they are doing stuff to the fuel to lower emissions and save costs, but when we get less MPG we had to buy MORE fuel than normal making them MORE money!
My bro works for CAT, he thinks it's absolutely ridiculous how much crap they put on the trucks for emissions. Trucks that could get 6-7 MPG are getting 3-4 because of emissions. Maybe the air is coming out a little cleaner, but you are using twice as much anyway so WTF is the difference! Save the truck drivers money, they deserve it! Instead my bro see's independant truckers everyday that can't afford routine maintenance on their trucks because of fuel costs rising and worse MPG with emissions they just don't have the money. So, when no maintenance gets done the truckers screw themselves into $10-15K bills for an engine overhaul.
I guess now I know why my TDI Beetle is getting worse mileage!! I used to go 550 miles/tank and now it's like 485 miles/tank. I did not think it could make that much difference but I have not made any route changes and I keep my tires inflated by checking the mevery month. I also have a K&N air cleaner that's been cleaned recently since I thought that might be the problem.
Eventually they'll take so much stuff out of our fuel.. we'll have no fuel left! LOL!
its a wonderfull world to be a pessimist in! JUST ANOTHER WAY WERE GETTING LESS FOR OUR MONEY! haha
yay!
My dad's TDI is also not getting the same milage it used to, I say lets start making our own biodiesel at home.
Denny I get pissed off customers all the time. The new diesel fuel flat out sucks. There isnt much you can do about it. You are forced to buy it. People bought diesels for durability, which they still have, and fuel mileage. Well the fuel mileage they lost. Kinda pisses me off when i go to a gas station and right on the pump it says 15% ethanol added. I get back in my car and leave. Why should I pay X for less gasoline when I can go somewhere else and buy 100% gasoline?
I want a biodiesel kit but I don't want to shell out $1500 for a good one!
buy an old mercedes or old CTD. those will run on the stuff straight more or less. the old diesels with mechanical pumps can run on veggie oil with little to no changes made.
Yeah on the 12 valve cummins you can do that, you just have the change the fuel filter very often (I think with every oil change or every other oil change).
I also used to have a 81' mercedes 300d, only got about 19 MPG. It wasn't turbo though, and it was a 5 cylinder. The best car to get is the 190d, the 240 actually has less power in a heavier car but they both get 35-45 MPG. The 190 has like 75 HP, the 240 has 64 HP, the 300 has 90 HP, and the turbo 300 has 120-130 HP somewhere in there and a crap load of torque. My 300 moved just fine, it wasn't bad. But like I said the 300's are hard to muster 20 MPG, for some reason the 5 cylinders were horrible on fuel.
Could be the drop in lubricity doing it. Properly processed bio-diesel has higher lubricity, some areas have bio-mix, B5, B10, B20 etc, so you could try it on B10 if you can find it. Or you can collect all your buddies used engine oil, filter it real good, ~10 micron or better I think is good, and put a quart of that in every full tank. You can run a high percentage of that in the summer if you want, but if you're just trying to "fix" what you're getting from the pump, then that should do it.
Too much used engine oil can coke up the injector tips after a while, and doesn't lubricate the pump & injectors as well as you'd think. Best bet is to find some Lucas fuel treatment, sea foam, or Stanadyne additive. It will make a difference.
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