L body motor mount in need of welding

[Turbulence]

Here is what I discovered when I started to pull the TBI out to install the turbo motor:



The drivers side mount on the frame has a broken weld and is pulling away from the frame. The stud is one of the hold downs for the battery tray. Would it be best to pull the motor, since its going to happen anyway, and weld up the mount, or would it be better to leave the tbi /tranny in to help with situating the mount? It would be much easier to weld with the motor and harness out I'm thinking.

Martin
89 Horizon (the car in question)
90 2.5 TBI 523 Sundance RS

[Tony Hanna]

I think I'd make some reference marks on the top of the rail, and then pull everything out to fix it. From the picture, I'd be tempted to completely remove the mount, plate the rail, and then reweld the mount.

[Turbulence]

Sounds like a plan, here are a couple more shots with the harness removed:





Martin
89 Horizon
90 Sundance

[rbryant]

Damn...

Make sure to look the frame over and measure it for strightness. That isn't normal and almost looks to me like something drove the engine sideways from the driver side and ripped the mount.

While you are at it seam weld the whole darn fram rail to the body on both sides. I did this on my GLHS since they tend to pop out the spot welds.

It only took my friend about 30 mins to run solid welds all the way along both the shock tower and frame rail on both sides. It will not only stop the spot welds from coming loose but will also stiffen up the car.

-Rich

[Turbulence]

So far there doesn't seem to be any indication of the car being hit in any way. I'll know more in a few days when I pull the motor/tranny. At least I know now why the whole car vibrated like it did when idling in gear... Yeesh.

Martin
89 Horizon
90 Sundance

[Tony Hanna]

Yeah, I'd definitely plate that. If you just weld the crack and reweld the mount, it might hold, but it might also crack again. If you plate it, you'll be spreading the load over a larger area which will decrease the chance of ever having another problem with it. Also, I second what Rich said about the seams. Welding them solid might be overkill (wouldn't hurt anything though) but I'd at least stitch weld it 2 on 6.

[Nemesismachine]

I got pissed off at my car a while back and just put the car in gear , held the brakes, and dumped the clutch. The result looked very similar. This was on a 94 Duster 2.5 na. It is very possible it was just abused...

[Turbulence]

Finally all fixed:





Now we have a -25 C deep freeze so it will wait for next spring for the motor and wiring harness

Martin
89 Horizon
90 Sundance

["Top Fuel" Bender]

just saw this thread now
finsihed results look good
my drag omni had similar looking damage
the previous owner ran the trans into a concrete parking stop
pounded everything back into place a welded it all back up
no problems in 10+ years and some 10 sec. passes