Fitting 3/8" NPT to -8 AN:
Don't fit:
Check with 3/8" NPT tap, no go:
1/4" NPT tap threads right in:
The kicker is it looks like the wall would get pretty thin if I just re-drill and tap for 3/8".
Fitting 3/8" NPT to -8 AN:
Don't fit:
Check with 3/8" NPT tap, no go:
1/4" NPT tap threads right in:
The kicker is it looks like the wall would get pretty thin if I just re-drill and tap for 3/8".
I know I dont have 1/4 to -08.. might have others to step it up? 1/4 is kinda small...
wow, never heard of that event/show
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
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New this year, big party! Being on the DP historical society board I have to volunteer Friday and Sunday... http://fallfestdesplaines.com/
I blew $12 at Summit and should have the right fittings by Friday. Small, but what else to do at this point?
Just to document the project, here's a TU fuel rail for a one-piece intake:
And it's worth de-burring the injector holes, I used one of these tools. You can see some flash in the hole in this photo too:
Fittings required are -6AN with an O-ring. There is a recess at the end to accomodate the O-Ring seal. Do not use 3/8" or 1/4" fittings. We carry -6AN male to -6 JIC fittings in stock for $5.00 each.
Chris-TU
Last edited by Chris W; 09-24-2009 at 01:44 AM.
Chris Wright www.TurbosUnleashed.com Chris@TurbosUnleashed.com 602-76-BOOST Tech/Sales#: Monday-Saturday 9AM-7PM MST Proudly Serving the Turbo-Mopar Community since 1997 TU is a performance, not marketing company. We provide accurate performance data on all our performance products. Fabricating data to make us appear better is just not our style. Do the research before you buy. ROCK BOTTOM PRICES WITHOUT THE HIDDEN HANDLING FEES.... -----HOME OF THE 9 SECOND FWD T-M CLUTCH-----
It wouldn't be metric.
Nice writeup about what your doing,
FYI, I am using a weak intank 255 pump to feed an inline 255 pump and its just enough, for now, lol.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
Looking good Mike
Ordered the right fittings today (going to need a yard sale for all the extras when I'm finished...)
And got the tank buttoned up and mounted back on the car.
Here's the finished bulkhead from the outside. I did throw some argent silver on the bulkhead after clearing off some rust since everything else was going to be so shiny... The AN bulkhead fittings are installed with nylon washers that I also gooped up with some RTV sealant. Hopefully no leaks there. On this side the two original ports are plugged with some gas tank epoxy. I did run 12ga gasoline compatible wiring to the pump through the existing 5/16" port, and filled in around the wire with the epoxy. On the in tank side I used RTV, so hopefully between the two no leaks around the wiring either. I will be using the stock connector just for the level sensor.
Wiring that came with the Walbro pump was about 14/16ga, so while overkill, I ran the 12ga into the stock connector and soldered to the terminals. Other end will terminate in a radiator fan/inline pump connector outside the tank. I'll eventually run a new power feed to the pump from the ASD relay. Here's the connector apart:
And here I'm ready to solder on the bigger wire:
And here's the finished pump assembly. While not the perfect set-up, I got tired of worrying about matching the 5/16" pump outlet to the 3/8" hose barb via the special submersible Gates rubber fuel line that NAPA was out of in either 5/16" or 3/8" varieties. Plus that stuff is $24/ft... So I saw mention of an SRT-4 company that uses -6 line for their "bottleneck eliminator kits" doing the same thing I'm doing, so I went that route... If the line expands too much sitting in fuel, it will be past race season and the braid will hold it from expanding too much, so F it and get it in the tank already!
Oh, one more photo I took... the hanger assembly for the smaller in tank pump was different from the other single pump hanger's I've worked with on my '87 Chargers, so I had to cut out the inside of the bracket to fit the Walbro Pump with the thinner of the two included foam sleaves. Jewelers Saw made quick work:
Picked up new tank hangers from Rock Auto too and bent them to match the old ones and threw some primer on. Don't be scared when they arrive with a sticker that says "non turbo Omni" as they are the same length as the ones that came off my car.
Little more ghetto that I usually aim for... but here's the pump strapped in, the wiring routed through the existing 5/16" hard line, and the clamp I put to anchor the 5/16" hardline to the 1/4" hard line to add some stability for the larger pump. The zip ties are to hold the filter sock on the end of the pump since it kept popping off everytime I compressed it to go in the tank...
It runs!
Except all that work to keep the stock level sensor... and it's reading a full tank with 5 gallons of gas in it. DOH. No leaks so far though, so at least I can go racing... just have to estimate the fuel load for the remainder of the season.
Cool it runs test it with boost yet?
Bummer on the gauge? Maybe a wire issue?
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
Um, you a cop? Cause if you are, no I didn't test it into boost in third down Algonquin...
Didn't touch the wiring so thinking the float somehow got hung up on the pick-up dish... maybe a full tank will spring it loose, otherwise I could have damaged the rheostat with it going in and out of the tank so much... Now that everything including the hangers is shiny and new, it won't be an issue to get back in the tank, but I'm not motivated enough right now.
JT
SDAC Director
SDAC-Chicago President
JOIN SDAC and your local Chapter TODAY! - SUPPORT the CLUB that supports YOUR HOBBY!
87 Shelby Z - 10.50@141.66mph
87 CSX #751 Clone - 12.88@102.88mph
www.badassperformance.com
Check out Turbo-Mopar Times!
Submit your 1/4 mile times HERE!!
Support SDAC! Join Today!
"I'm not some pro athlete with a bajillion dollars, I'm just an every man"
Note: The information and any images provided in this post are not for distribution outside this forum without the author's permission.
Some photos of the final set-up...
Underhood:
Fuel filter mounted mid-car, the 90 on the outlet swings it to the inside of the frame rail to continue on to the engine bay:
And looking back toward the tank from the filter, I tried to route it to keep everything tucked up as far as possible, so it's not the straightest, but most protected:
Looking toward the engine bay:
And attached at the bulkhead in the tank... 36+ hours no leaks!
Looks nice. Thanks again for all the pics.