Cyl. #2 dead - no fuel - bad injector?

[Anonymous_User]

Today I started my Z, started and idled fine.

Backed out of the driveway - ran fine.

Put it in 1st gear and it immediately started missing. Definitely on dead cylinder.

I pulled back in the driveway and pulled plug wires to determine it was cylinder #2. I pulled the plug out and checked for spark. It had good spark, but I went ahead and threw in a new spark plug just for poops and grins. This didn't make any difference.

I pulled all plugs and did a compression test - 150 across the all four.

I checked my cam timing to make sure it hadn't moved - but since the compression was right on at 150, I was sure it hadn't.

So, with compression and spark, I must not be getting ANY fuel to #2. I messed around with the injector harness trying to get it to fire, but nothing changed at all. The harness looks to be in good condition and the connections were pulled, cleaned, and reconnected.

So... I may have a bad injector. First, I'd like to verify that I am getting voltage to the injector. Isn't there something like a noid light or something similar that I can plug into the injector harness to see if the power is there? Where can I get one? Do any of the parts stores 'rent' them?

If that checks out, I guess I have to pull the injector and see if it is spraying. A ----- of a job on a 2-piece intake.

[Spraynlog]

Any codes? You might be able to hear it cycle (or not) with a stethyscope while it is running. Sounds like a bad injector though....

[Anonymous_User]

No codes other than 55.

Man, if it was a one-piece intake I would just swap the injector with #1 and see if I could move the problem.

I guess if it turns out to be a bad injector I'm gonna have to re-flash my EPROM to use some stockers for a week. *sigh*

[Anonymous_User]

Bought a set of noid lights yesterday. Plugged into the #2 harness and it flashes as it should. So, I have spark, I have compression, and I have power to the injector. Is everybody with me in saying the injector went bad?

[lametec]

Put the end of a (long) screwdriver on the injector and put your ear to the handle. You should be able to clearly hear it tick while running. No tick = bad injector (assuming it has proper power).

[turbovanman²]

I like to use mechanics ears or a stethoscope, if its clicking, then its probably not your issue.

Also, a bad injector will usually set a code 26.

[Anonymous_User]

Alright, I'll throw a stethoscope on it. No code 26. So.... compression is perfect, spark is great... IF the injector is clicking, then what??

[MiniMopar]

Pull the fuel rail, reconnect the fuel lines and have someone crank the engine a couple of times while you hold the rail. See if all four are firing. Be careful where you point it.

If you want to compare flow, here is what I do:

- Go to a hobby store and pickup 4 of those little chemistry set test tubes. Get the ones with the flanged end. The injectors fit snugly inside them.

- Crank the engine over with all four attached, but don't do it too much or the pressure will pop the tubes off.

- Compare the amount of fuel in each. If one is particularly bad, it will be obvious.

[badandy]

I had this happen to me yesterday leaving work in my newly aquired CSX-T. A check engine light and code 26. I limped home and unplugged the injector...checked for signal...good to go...replaced the injector and disconnected the SMEC from the battery...washed hands...smoked a cig...plugged SMEC back in to the battery and vrooom!

I would think that if the injector went bad you would indeed have a code. If the injector driver went bad (I think it controls 1&2 cyl) than #1 would be out too...so all that is left is wiring.

[Anonymous_User]

Pulling the fuel rail is what I need to do. Stupid 2-piece intake, though, so I have to pull the valve cover. Yeah, I'm sure it can be done with the valve cover on, but I've tried, and it's just easier to pull the valve cover. I figured holding the rail over four cups and cranking the motor would tell me for sure if the injector is firing.

I would think that if the injector went bad you would indeed have a code. If the injector driver went bad (I think it controls 1&2 cyl) than #1 would be out too...so all that is left is wiring

Wiring confirmed good via noid light. Spark- check. Compression - check. Timing - check. Power to injector - check. Fuel pressure - check.

This should have been resolved by now, but lately life has been so busy, I only have time on Sunday to work on it.

[Tony Hanna]

I agree with everybody that said to listen to it. If it is ticking but not spraying fuel, it could (in theory) be possible that the injector is fine but plugged. If that's the case, then you could probably spray some cleaner backward through it with compressed air while holding the injector open with 12v to dislodge whatever is causing the problem.

[Anonymous_User]

I really appreciate everyone's advice. Man, it's hard to diagnose a problem when you can't find time to even stick your head under the hood! As soon as I get some more information, I will post an update.

[TurboJerry]

Sounds like a stuck injector to me. Only hold 12v to it for a few seconds. The low resistance injectors heat up fast. (hence peak and hold injector drivers)

[Tony Hanna]

Yeah, I should have mentioned that in my previous post. I always used a push button momentary switch to latch an injector for a few seconds at a time when cleaning them.

[MiniMopar]

You can remove the rail on a 2pc without removing the VC. I do it all the time. Remove the injector clips and regulator, push the injectors all the way into the manifold, maneuver the rail out, and then pull the injectors.