I have an 89 Omni that I'm converting to Turbo. I want to swap the 4 wheel disc setup off an 87 Shelby Z onto it. I know I'll need the master cylinder, prop. valve, and all the brake components. For the front, just un bolt the 4 lug spindle and bolt the 5 lug in its place. Now for the back, just take the drums off and bolt up the disc setup??? Anyone help is always appreciated.
Jon
The back is a bolt on affair, you should even be able to use the drum spindles. E-brake will require a bit of messing around but from what I have read, not a big deal.
Front is a different story, you need to swap knuckles and going from what I have read, you need to machine the knuckle mount that goes into the strut.
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If you can land a pair of knuckles from a turbo Omni or Shelby Charger, you can swap those in and then the rest will be a bolt on.
This is an old thread but for those that have similar questions. You can swap the calipers, rotors and proportioning valve over without machining anything. Front and rear. You can even use the struts up front but you will then need to use the spindles also. They use larger diameter bolts for lower strut mounting and alignment. You will need to use the 2 bolt mount from the top of the omni strut. YOu will notice the daytona uses a bearing mount where the omni does not. The daytona naturally uses a much stiffer spring and will thus raise the front a little and ride much stiffer. not the best performing setup but if money is your concern it will handle way better then the stock omni setup. You may want to run an aftermarket daytona spring to lower the front.(easier to find then omni springs) You will want to run new brake lines from the center of rear junction to new caliper. Rear suspension is entirels different between the two.
O. forgot to mention. My swap was from an 88 shelby z to an 89 omni. can't say what cars are same.
Good info. Im finally doing this. I went to the dark side for a time (WS.6 Formula), but finally got back into the turo-mopar scene!
I have some pics that may help you with your swap. Im not sure how to upload them though. I just did this swap not long ago so if there are any questions you may have let me know. I can take more pics too.
i put some pic's in my garage if you are interested. The last two are the ones you may want to look at. On the second last it shows the bolt hole on the strut. the left hole needs to have the offset head which controls camber. you can see what it rides up against for the adjustment. the last is the lower ball joint. You will have to remove the bolt entirely as the ball joint post is notched for the bolt. So even if its loose it will not pull from the spindle unless bolt is out.
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