Cam timing advice

[SL#189]

I just got done re-timing the SL after having it skip a tooth or two post-storage startup. Cam timing appears spot-on (no degree wheel available), ignition timing 12^, no codes, completely stock (except Champion R9YC gapped at .035). The problem is that it bogs at low gear, builds RPM and boost VERY slowly (the GLH is WAY more responsive and it's all stock also). I suspect I'm still one tooth off - the question is which way to rotate the cam (one tooth forward?).

On a secondary note, after storage I appear to have developed a coolant leak somewhere on the driver's rear corner of the head (it wasn't there prior to parking last summer). Aside from the bolt on the side of the head (near the airbox mount) and the headgasket, is it possible I may be leaking from one of the manifold studs?

[mo' parts]

it could be a man. stud i guess, id check the rubber hose for the coolant return from the turbo to waterbox.
if you need to advance the cam, go 1 tooth clockwise. believe it or not, i usally use a compression gauge to get my cam timing where i want it. 1 tooth advanced usally would change it by 8-10 psi.

[SL#189]

I feel pretty safe about the turbo coolant line - bradied SS just over a year old, but I'll re-check it anyways (it does ride right on that corner of the head - tight fit). Time to dig out the inspection mirror/flashlight!

Thanks!

[mo' parts]

I feel pretty safe about the turbo coolant line - bradied SS just over a year old, but I'll re-check it anyways (it does ride right on that corner of the head - tight fit). Time to dig out the inspection mirror/flashlight!

Thanks!

ss lines, nice. lol
funny thing w/coolant leaks though, when its under press it can squirt just about anywhere. so be sure to check evrything in that general area.
hope it helps

[turbovanman²]

I draw aline with yellow paint marker on the back of the cam sprocket TDC, its where the cam key is. Then draw a line thru the center of the valve cover. This way, you know its bang on.

[SL#189]

Looks like it is a manifold stud/bolt - a little white crust and discoloration under the nut/manifold on the one closest to driver's side. That shouldn't be too painful

Redid the cam/ignition timing, but kind of half-fast (pronounced half***ed) on the cam part (loosened belt, advanced cam, but it went fast, so I can't be sure it was only one tooth) - now it works like it should, but I also have my mystery 3k RPM stumble back again too. Back to do it right (mumbles something like DIRTyFT "Do It Right The First TIme")