6 puck clutch and yellow PP. THANKS chris!!!!

[shelbyplaya]

i got my clutch kit i orderd from TU a cuple weeks ago early last week (just havent had time to post my review yet). one slight extreamley small issue but it was delt with over the phone right away and effortlessley!

the clutch and PP arived fast considering i live in canada and on a small island

thanks chris, best person i've delt with when it comes to TM's! i'm now a firm customer of TU!!!!!!!!!!!

[2.216VTurbo]

UM Chris, does this mean mine is coming SOON????

[ssheen]

You install it yet Ray? That is the same one I am thinking of as well. btw, we are coming out to the lower mainland next week.

[moparzrule]

How much more clamping power is the yellow over the blue (waiting for Chris's reponse here)? I have a TU 4 puck with blue plate, I'm planning on running about 350 WHP with a 2.5L so I should be fine. But I'm just curious because I've heard before the T3 plate is like 1700 PSI. I ran a dual diaphram plate in my daytona with I think 2400 or 2500 PSI. I loved the petal feel, you KNOW you got a clutch that will hold then LOL.

[GLHSKEN]

Chris will be out of touch for a bit, please see the sticky at the top of this forum.

[moparzrule]

I'm not in a hurry for the answer, no biggie.

[shelbyplaya]

ok here's my findings's

well worth the extra $50 it costs! i would more recomend it for ppl who drive with a more aggrssive street tire, they make my tires squeel at 2500rpm starts and i can squeel them travling at 60mph now.

for track use it couldent get any better. i love it!

[shelbyplaya]

ok ok. maybe the yellow pp is a bit much for a street driven car. if i had the chance i'd go for the blue pp.

the fly wheel is alredy blue and cracked. the clutch it's self looks much the same as well as the PP. i can tell it does ALOT of work.

also it only has about 300km's on it one 4000rpm launch and about 10 or so 2nd gear burn outs. i'll get pics of it then copy this into a new thread n the trans section

[moparzrule]

No, you just didn't break in the clutch! Ceramic clutches are especially touchy, if you get on them too soon before they are broken in they slip pretty easily....and when ceramic clutches slip it creates tremendous heat and also glazes over your disc. The heat causes the blue on the fly wheel, perhaps the heat even cracked it too. I seriously doubt in was the PP. How come no one ever breaks in a clutch properly??? I always wait 500 miles on a new clutch to slam them, that means nothing more than easy going releases and never more than 1/4 throttle. It's paid off.

[8valves]

perhaps the heat even cracked it too.

Absolutely. I've had decent luck with getting away with 300 or so miles for break in with my ceramic discs... I had been told that they are picky about breaking in, but do it faster than an organic style disc. I'm not sure about the truth to any of that though.

But I've ran some severe PP and ceramic disc combos for over 10K miles now with no heat marks of any sorts.

I DO NOT do 2nd gear burnouts though... if anythign start in first and grab second with a quick shift. If you don't have an immense amount of power to break away the tires that would seem like clutch suicide to me.

[moparzrule]

Once my clutch is broken in I beat the hell out of it. What I do is hook a vacuum line directly to the wastegate so I only get 5-7 PSI boost plus the wastegaste starts to open as soon as it sees boost so the boost doesn't come on so hard. I had a T2/T3 clutch in my daytona, properly broke in for 500 miles. Held until 260 WHP and then the hub ripped out of the disc material. NEVER slipped, and I attribute that to proper break in since it never got glazed over. I just love these people that say the T2/T3 doesn't hold anything over 200-225 WHP, I ask them how long they broke in for and the usual response is ''around the block once. My daytona was a pacifica model, fully loaded power everything, plus I always have about 100 pounds of tools in it and I weigh 250. In an L body I have no doubt if broken in properly a T2/T3 clutch would hold 300 WHP.