Hey you all, kinda a newbie to the site. but not to Dodge FWD turbos. anyway I was coming home tonight after work and pullin in the driveway it died. went to restart and nothing, just cranked. the timing belt is still spining, its gettin fuel to the rail, but no spark. I tested spark at the end of the plug wire with the old screw driver test to ground and no luck. any ideas?? Thanks all and I look forward to more fun on here!!
shooooot, should tell you what it is I guess. 92 IROC R/T. bout 82000 miles on the ticker... sorry. thanks again
Any codes? turn the key on and off 3 times and the check engine light will flash the codes.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
12 61 36 25
thats what I get out of it... any ideas?
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vb...e&articleid=30
Maybe recheck the codes, they seem a bit off. They should be in order also, IE smallest to largest.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I double checked em, I got 12, 61, 36, 15.
12 is right cause the battery has been disconnected, 15 is right cause the speed sensor is wiggin out, now 61 and 36 are stumping me.
also the tach has been intermittent for some time, could that signal bad coil? I mean the tach would work, then not work, I would hit bumps and it would come and go... any ideas? Thanks again!!
not only are they out of order, but your not getting 55(end of codes)
95 spirit 3.0/543 15.0@91 N/A, 14.5@96 on a 50 shot RIP 87 shelby Z - project car, maybe I can drive it this year 91 spirit - roll it, chop the top, do some burnouts! RIP
I would put an educated guess at the crank sensor, though I have no idea where it is located on a TIII, other than its going to be somewhere on the trans because it picks off of a reluctor wheel on the flywheel I think. Anybody thats more familiar with TIII's can correct me. I know a dead cranksensor for some vehicles can cause a no reading on a tac, as well as a no start with no spark. Will the car start after cooling off? I've seen more than one GM cranksensor work untill the car warms up and it conks out.
John Brown Had a TD... '98 Neon R/T sedan... The snow whip, has knobby tires. '93 LX 5.0/5spd Not a TD, rear drive, makes cool Vee eighty sounds.
36 is map sensor isnt it? i thaught the codes went smallest to biggest?
You are right I am am not getting 55 end of codes, actually I am getting it, just not putting it up here cause I figured we all knew that was the end of the codes.
the way I listed them is the way I got them out of the car. is there another way to get them besides, key on - off - on - off - on? I swear to god this is the order I get them in.
not only am I getting no spark, I get no "ignition" lead at the coil pack. no 12 volt reading anywhere on the 3 wires there. I know that the black with gray stripe is the tach signal, I assume that other 2 are power and ground and I am not reading any 12 volts anywhere with ign on? it also leads me to think that crank sensor is done.
any other ideas? also how can I check the crank sensor with a Digital Multimeter? or does it need to go in for diagnostics on that? Thanks again guys!!
does it turn on, like when you turn the key does it act like the battery is disconnected or is it only sparkl?
everything clicks and turns over like normal, just no fire.
man I cant believe the help I am getting on this. I been on other sites for FWD mopars but when the T111 site went down I stopped following it and just drove the car. Thanks you all for helping a newbie!!
Try this: unplug the power connector to the coil pack and put a test light on the green/black wire. Ground the other end of the test light. Now have somebody switch the key from off to run. The test light should light up for approx. 3 seconds and then go out. Now have your helper crank the engine while you watch the test light. If it lights and then goes out when the key is first turned on, but doesn't light while cranking, then your problem is most likely a bad crank sensor.Originally Posted by fast4popper
To test the crank sensor with a multimeter, backprobe the gray/black wire at the sensor plug and ground your other test lead to the negative battery terminal. while cranking the engine, you should see the voltage switch between 0.3 and 5.0 volts. If the voltage stays steady while cranking, then you definately have a bad sensor.
Crank sensors run between $150-$200 for a replacement, but if you're handy with a soldering iron, there is a sensor that will work for $38. The details are here:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...t=crank+sensor
HTH,
Tony
I would also look at the 02 sensor wiring. A common problem on TIII's is that the wiring gets hot either being too close to, or even rubbing against the turbo which causes the insulation to melt allowing the sensor to short to ground which usually results in a blown fusible link. That fusible link also feeds power for the fuel pump and ignition if I recall correctly.
Dave Tekampe
Director SDAC National
VP SDAC-Chicago
85 GLH-Turbo (DC intercooled)
86 GLHS #107
87 GLHS #148
87 CSX #161, #608, #674
88 CSX-T #529, #541
89 Shadow Competition Package and lots more...
I apreciate the follow up guys. i went home on lunch and tested the ign wire at the coil. it does go to 12volts for a brief second then does not give me that reading again. this is leaving me to believe its the crank sensor. does any know where to find the wiring so I can test the sensor itself?
as for the o2 sensor wires, I fixed that about 2 years ago. rerouted it and got it away from the heat that was just starting to melt the loom.
Thanks again guys!!!!
The crank sensor is right under the throttlebody. It's next to impossible to see without removing the throttlebody first. Locate the sensor and then follow the wires from the sensor back to where it plugs into the harness. Once you find the plug you can then test the sensor with a multimeter as I described in my previous post. You'll need to leave the sensor connected to the wiring harness and backprobe (shove the test probe into the connector alongside the wire).
agagin thanks for the follow up. I am out of town right now on business. I will do this when i get home Sunday. I am thinking it is the crank sensor. does the tranny have to come out to replace this?
Nope, you don't have to pull the trans. You can get right to it from under the hood with the throttle body and some of the intercooler plumbing out of the way. Should only take about 15 minutes or so.
well I made it home, tested the crank sensor, it is sitting at .3 volts during crank. am I right in assuming bad sensor? and how reliable is this "modded sensor"? I am not against spending the cash for a Mopar part if it is more reliable. again thanks for the help!! I was totally thinking it was between the trans and motor....
Yeah, if it's not switching from .03v to 5.0v and back again while you're cranking the engine, then it's definately a bad sensor.
As for reliability, I've had no problems at all out of my "converted" CSS40 sensor. Granted, the sensor has only been on the car since 5/6/07, but the first trip I made with it was a 1 1/2 hour drive from Marietta Ohio to Charleston West Virginia.
The only reason the replacement sensor for the TIII is so expensive is because they're rare. The CSS40 sensor is alot cheaper because it's for the relatively common '93-'94 Chrysler 3.0 V6. Both sensors are electronically identical, and mount exactly the same way. The only differences are the connector, and the little flat spot on the body of the TIII sensor. If you follow my instructions in the other thread regarding wiring the sensor, and cutting the flat spot into the sensor body with a file, I expect it will serve you well for many thousands of miles.
Tony
Reply With Quote
