Battery...DEAD

[overlordsshadow]

Well after dropping $200 on a dry cell battery I figured my problems would be over. Got the new engine in about 10 days ago and moved battery to trunk. This morning my battery was dead and no accessories or lights were on. Got it boosted and went about 15 km to school. It stalled once on the way there but I was able to start it again. It is now dead again and I am waiting for my friend to come boost me. Only thing I did to the car recently was wash it. It does have problems warm starting but not problems cold starting, holding idle, or a quick drop in rpm. Friends here think I could have a coil problem. Would a coil problem drain a battery ultra fast? No stereo being run. Only the engine and fan, sometimes the fan inside the car and the lights. No voltage problems with the new setup until this morn.

[JDAWG]

sure your connections from the eng comp to the trunk are good? Wire big enough? Try doing some IOD testing

edit IOD= Ignition Off Draw

[JDAWG]

http://www.schumacherproducts.com/applications/?id=0014

[overlordsshadow]

Hey, Went and had a test done on the battery/charging system. Battery is in good health and alternator makes volts. 'No diode ripple detected' is the only message that came up. I have only codes 12,55 and 23. Where the hell is the charge temp/ throttle body temp sensor on a T1? There isn't is there. Mabye this new comp for a 89 2.5 stage 5 from FWD(Cindy) thinks there should be one? Cold starting does have a problem acually. The first start after cold it revs up to 1100 down to 200 and slowly works its way bouncing back and forth to sit at 900. Usually stalls endlessly unless I give it some gas.

[overlordsshadow]

Well did some parasitic testing and the dome lamp fuse is sparking pulling it out and puttin it in. What else besides the dome light is on that fuse?

[JDAWG]

the charge temp sensor should be in the intake, what year is your car? Is it intercooled? I hear that Cindys computers can have cold start problems but I have never owned one myself. Your car shouldnt have a charge sensor being a T1 orgionally, you can add the sensor though. The dome lamp fuse will spark pulling it in and out, I am sure you pulled it while you had the door open, when you put the fuse in it completes the circuit and will give a spark, if there was a problem in the circuit, like a dead short the fuse will be blowing. You said there was some sort of problem "no diode ripple detected", you may have a problem in your smec, your alternator isnt internally regulated, it is regulated by the computer, have you checked any voltages at the alternator or battery?

[overlordsshadow]

Your right the door was open stupid me. I sure as hell hope the smec is not damaged. Haven't had it for more than two weeks. The battery is good and will hold voltage and amps on its own. The voltage gets up to about 13-14 when the car is on, so the alternator is doing something. Going out to test the car for power right now. Its been sittin for 10 hours.

[overlordsshadow]

Well the problem lies in the dome light circuit. Had the fuse for the dome light out all night and the problem went away. There full charge left and car cranked over right away and powerfully. The dome light still works if I put in the fuse. What else is on that circuit?

[JDAWG]

does the light stay on with the door closed? may have a switch problem, not sure what else is on the circuit, may say in the owners manual

[overlordsshadow]

The lights does not stay on. The drain is still present with the lightbulb out and doors closed with fuse in. Fuse is still out and I have no tach?! So the tach is in some way connected to it.... Some scouting to do in the next few days/weeks. Thats why I love being so close to my car. Who needs a tach when they can hear the roar of the engine and feel the pull of the car.

[JDAWG]

nvm my alldata started working so I stole a pic

[overlordsshadow]

And thats for a 92, non ES shadow? Sorry my shadow is a bit of a frankenstein. It is essentially a T1 with T2+ power in a 4 door base model shadow.

[JDAWG]

ehh, you never said you had a 92, i assumed 89 cause of your puter, my alldata is down again, ill keep checking though

[Turbodave]

Have you got a Factory Service Manual? the wiring diagrams in there will give you the best detail about how the circuit is set up.

I know that the dome light wiring goes back from the dash along the drivers side, where it is also connected to the trunk light (make sure that's not stuck on all the time in your car) and then goes up the C-pillar on the drivers side and across the roof to the dome light.

[JDAWG]

came across this though
NO: 08-26-92
SUBJECT: Excessive Ignition Off Draw (IOD) and/or Component Display Errors Because Of Transistor Failure
DATE: Nov. 30, 1992
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The following list describes the various symptoms that could be caused by a transistor failure. The symptoms are listed by the different electronic components that are involved. A component may display one or more of the symptoms.

AJ

Electronic Instrument Cluster (EIC)
Intermittent erroneous or erratic display



Part of display at twice the normal brightness



Abnormal Ignition Off Draw (IOD) of 40mA or 550mA with no visible indication





AS

Electronic Instrument Cluster (EIC) (Town & Country only)
Intermittent erroneous or erratic display



Part of display at twice the normal brightness



Abnormal Ignition Off Draw (IOD) of 40mA or 550mA with no visible indication



Check engine lamp on at all times with ignition on. 40mA IOD



Check gauge lamp on at all times with ignition on. 40mA IOD





AA, AG, AJ, AN and AP
Mechanical Cluster Tachometer Drive
Loss of tachometer returning to zero with ignition off



Abnormal Ignition Off Draw (IOD) of 130mA





AJ and AY
Overhead Console Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)
Abnormal Ignition Off Draw (IOD) of 265mA with no visible indications



DIAGNOSIS:
Determining Cause of Dead Battery - Ignition Off Draw (IOD) Test

The maximum IOD for a vehicle is less than 30mA. The body controller has a thirty second time-out (has current draw for thirty seconds after the ignition is turned off). The Transmission Control Module (TCM) has a 20mA for twenty minutes and the automatic load leveler has up to 500mA draw for sixty minutes after the ignition is turned off or the battery is reconnected. These components must time-out or be disconnected before the IOD measurement is taken. Follow the IOD procedure in section 8A of the electrical, fuel & emissions portion of the appropriate 1992 service manual with the following modifications.

Modify step 4d to read as follows:

After three minutes time has elapsed, the test light should turn off or be dimly lit depending on the electronics the vehicle is equipped with. If the test light remains brightly lit, do not disconnect the test light. Disconnect each fuse or circuit breaker, beginning with the fuses that feed the M1 and/or M11 circuits, until the test light is either off or dimly lit. Use the appropriate wiring diagrams service manual to determine what is on that fuse. Reconnect the fuse and disconnect one component at a time on that fuse and determine if the IOD drops to a normal level (under 30mA). Determine which component causes the high IOD and correct the condition. It is now safe to install a milli-amp meter without damage to the meter and check for low amperage IOD.

Modify step 6 by checking the components listed in the Symptom/Condition section first.

If one of the components is the cause of the excessive IOD, use the Repair Procedure.

AJ or AS Electronic Cluster - Intermittent Erroneous or Erratic Display

This failure may be a constant condition or be extremely infrequent and may reset with cycling of the ignition switch.

If the condition is only with one gauge, use section 8E of the electrical, fuel & emissions portion of the appropriate 1992 service manual.
If the cluster has erratic displays coming across the entire cluster - replace the cluster.
If erroneous or erratic display cannot be verified, look for red lines going across the cluster. These red lines would be difficult to see in daylight, but should be easily seen in the dark. Replace the cluster if red lines are present.
If customer complains of repeated random or erratic displays (ghosts) appearing across the entire cluster - replace the cluster.
AS Electronic Cluster - Check Engine Lamp Stays On

Check engine controller with the DRB II scan tool for diagnostic trouble codes. Repair as required.
If no diagnostic trouble codes are found, use the DRB II scan tool to read the status of the check engine lamp. If the engine controller says the lamp is off, but the lamp is on - replace the electronic cluster.
AS Electronic Cluster - Check Gauges Lamp Stays On

Verify gauges are in the normal operating range. If coolant, volt, or oil pressure gauge is out of range, go to section 8E of the 1992 service manual for further diagnosis.
NOTE: NO GAUGE OPERATION WITH A CHECK GAUGES LAMP ON, IS AN INDICATION OF NO BUS COMMUNICATION. SEE TSB 08-14-92 FOR MORE INFORMATION.

Check the body controller for diagnostic trouble codes. Repair as required.
If no diagnostic trouble codes are found, but the check gauges lamp is on - replace the electronic cluster.
PARTS REQUIRED:
Quantity
Description
Part No.

AR

Tachometer Drive Module (AA, AG, AJ, AP and AN)
4375410

AR

EVIC Electronic Board (AJ exchange)
5269234

AR

EVIC Electronic Board (AY exchange)
4685040

AR

Electronic Cluster (AJ exchange)
5269401

AR

Electronic Cluster (AS exchange)
4685011



REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves replacement of a defective electronic component as determined by the diagnosis above.

Identify the defective component using the Symptom/Condition and Diagnosis procedure above.
Select the appropriate replacement part from the parts list above.
Replace the component using the procedure in the appropriate section of the 1992 service manual.