my build...

[shelby zed]

just got my block back from being bored today, and after work i worked on it for a bit. got a coat of paint on it, and put the crank in. i still have to torque everything so its just in there. god those arp rod bolts are a ***** to put in. is it normal for the crankshaft to have holes drilled in the counterbalance peices? mine looks like someone went at it with a drill...ill have some pictures tommorow hopefully.

[turbovanman²]

Yes, thats how they balance the crank. Are you getting the rods resized after you put the ARP's in?

[shelby zed]

they resized them allready simon, ive got a package waiting for me so hopefully its the shifter or fuel pump or someting that will be fun. ill have some more pics tonight, ill be there putting the rest of it together. oh simon i have that kit thing to whenever you want it.

[Clay]

but the key is, did the resize the rods AFTER they put the ARP bolts in?

[turbovanman²]

but the key is, did the resize the rods AFTER they put the ARP bolts in?

Exactly. Sounds like you are putting the bolts in, which means they now need to be resized.

Ok, cool, my work number is 604-533-1162.

[shelby zed]

i took them in and got them checked with the arps in, and they said they where fine. sorry i forgot pics. got a goddamn vi on the old lancer last night.. then it started knocking today!anyways heres some pics

the little drill holes

[raccoon]

oh so nice, i could make love to it.

[shelby zed]

i allready did
some more pics, got the head assembled and put on

[22mopar]

YIKES, you changed rod bolts after resizing??? thats a major error!!!!!

BTW arp bolts are EZ to install if you do it right with a press. Never draw them in with the nuts by tightening. that stresses the rod, bolt and nut... bad plan stan.

[turbovanman²]

New engines are soooooo sexy,

[shelby zed]

and more, vc is still wet so it didnt crinkle yet


got my walbro today

and a sweet keychain

[overlordsshadow]

Damn fine looking engine. Hope she works well for you, mine sure is. Car just feels so nice going so fast. For some reason the shadow does not want to obey posted speed limits, maybe it just never sees them.

[shelby zed]

haha, yea.. i think mine may have the same problem..

[overlordsshadow]

Now there could be another problem. My right foot may be slightly heavier than my left one. Should add more springs to help keep the throttle closed. Would have thought I'd be born with a stronger right arm for yanking on the throttle on a bike. Maybe thats to come mid summer

[shelby zed]

got the tranny all cleaned and painted tonight, didnt take pics but tommorow ill e putting the clutch in and the tranny on.took tommorow off of school to get more done, should be done soon ... waiting on turbo lines to put the engine in, and a crank sprocket

[shelby zed]

got the turbo lines today, still need one elbow for them to work... but i got some flywheel bolts and a crank timing belt sprocket, so i put them all on and all the belts. tranny goes on tommorow after i find that damn plate that goes between the trannyn and engine and then it goes in. what do you guys use for tranny fluid?and also, what are the torque specs on the cam caps? my manual doesnt say. im also wondering about break in procedure... heres what ive gathered
run it a few times to heat cycle it all, like let it cool down completely after.
change the oil after 500 km,
heres my questions, use petroleum based oil at first? let it warm up idling before you do the break in? run a little boost or full boost at first?

[shelby zed]

tranny is on, need a dipstick tube, and to fab up my dp, as well as a little extesnion for one turbo line, then it goes back in

[shelby zed]

its in, and everythings hooked up. went to start it and apparently the machine shop removed the oil plug right by the intermediate shaft, so now i have to take everything off the front of the engine to fix it... looks likke itll be a couple more days i have some pics of it in ill post in a bit

[overlordsshadow]

That really, really, really sucks. I know just the plug that you are talking about. Thankfully mine was put back in all nice and shiney and didn't have any leaks or problems.

[turbovanman²]

got the turbo lines today, still need one elbow for them to work... but i got some flywheel bolts and a crank timing belt sprocket, so i put them all on and all the belts. tranny goes on tommorow after i find that damn plate that goes between the trannyn and engine and then it goes in. what do you guys use for tranny fluid?and also, what are the torque specs on the cam caps? my manual doesnt say. im also wondering about break in procedure... heres what ive gathered
run it a few times to heat cycle it all, like let it cool down completely after.
change the oil after 500 km,
heres my questions, use petroleum based oil at first? let it warm up idling before you do the break in? run a little boost or full boost at first?

Use Redline MTX or similiar or I like GM Synchromesh.

Start it up, set the timing, bleed cooling system, go beat the shitt out of it, I run 5 psi of boost, just plug wastegate to intake. I do what Hastings suggests, keep it 2nd and pin it to about 80 Km, then chop the gas for 5 secs, pin it to 80, and chop, repeat 25 times and its broken in. Go back, change the oil and filter-DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC, drive it hard but not at the same rpm and after 5000 km's, you can use syn oil.