2.4L with A568 - Front Motor Mount

[BadAssPerformance]

Since it has come up in a couple threads, I decided to add a thread for this. I got the idea from Carlos (lotaboost) and his 2.4L A568 91 Daytona (RIP )

The stud is a factory bolt with the head turned down to align into the dowel pin hole in the block ear.

Not the prettiest mount - it will be updated when I get time

[cobra2411]

I think the important thing to mention about this for people that haven't looked hard at the 2.4 block is that the original dowel has a lip or a recess in it. It's setup so that then the dowel is inserted the inside of the dowel is the same diameter as the hole on the front of the ear on the block. It's hard to explain but the bottom line is when you take the dowel out, turn down the bolt and insert it from the back it will stop on the lip that's 1/2 way in.

So, as long as it doesn't spin to prevent you from tightening it up, the lip will keep the bolt from going all the way through.

After seeing that, it may be what I do for that mount. There's a trans mount/boss above and below that that you can tie into the front mount and then use that bolt to tie the mount to the block. I think that's strong enough.

[1FastCSX289]

Thats not too shabby at all. Looks darn good IMOP. My mount is a lot simpler and consists of a Stratus stock mount with a 1/4" steel plate welded to it and then half of the stock P-body mount welded to the plate. Its very crude and even less sexy than yours......but it gets the job done. Ill have to snap some pics.

[BadAssPerformance]

I think the important thing to mention about this for people that haven't looked hard at the 2.4 block is that the original dowel has a lip or a recess in it. It's setup so that then the dowel is inserted the inside of the dowel is the same diameter as the hole on the front of the ear on the block. It's hard to explain but the bottom line is when you take the dowel out, turn down the bolt and insert it from the back it will stop on the lip that's 1/2 way in.

So, as long as it doesn't spin to prevent you from tightening it up, the lip will keep the bolt from going all the way through.

After seeing that, it may be what I do for that mount. There's a trans mount/boss above and below that that you can tie into the front mount and then use that bolt to tie the mount to the block. I think that's strong enough.

Exactly how the bolt/dowel hole work. It is clamped tigth, not going anywhere.

I did it this way as I have several 8V cars too and the way I swap parts around I did not want to make a unique trans case for this car.

Thats not too shabby at all. Looks darn good IMOP. My mount is a lot simpler and consists of a Stratus stock mount with a 1/4" steel plate welded to it and then half of the stock P-body mount welded to the plate. Its very crude and even less sexy than yours......but it gets the job done. Ill have to snap some pics.

Thanks. Mine is just a stock 2.4L mount and a stock 2.2L mount both cut about in half and leaned together so they touched, then tacked together and then gusseted all over.

Definitely get some pics, good thread to archive the different ways of doing it

[1FastCSX289]

I did it this way as I have several 8V cars too and the way I swap parts around I did not want to make a unique trans case for this car.

I totally missed this the first time I looked at it. Really, this is the smarter way to go rather than welding an ear to the trans. In hindsight, I kinda wish I did it this way.

[Austrian Dodge]

i lined up the block + a568, drilled straight through the ear and in the transmission case and put a dowel pin with there.

took it off, back on - perfectly aligned. i'll take pics next time in the garage.

[cobra2411]

What's the best way to lineup the trans to the motor? I know how to do it on a RWD, but you get to take the trans off the bell and have a nice hole to work though...

[rbryant]

Since it has come up in a couple threads, I decided to add a thread for this. I got the idea from Carlos (lotaboost) and his 2.4L A568 91 Daytona (RIP )

The stud is a factory bolt with the head turned down to align into the dowel pin hole in the block ear.

Not the prettiest mount - it will be updated when I get time

Good idea.

It MIGHT be worth adding a gusset from just below the bolt hole on the bolt that goes into the bellhousing back to the far side of the bracket. That way you get a more ridgid connection pulling the transmission toward the mount. Otherwise it MIGHT be possible for it to bend outward. It looks like it is probably stiff enough without it though considering that there are other bolts holding it to the block anyway but I like overkill .

I would probably still do the bellhousing mod again but this is also a good and creative solution.

-Rich

[1FastCSX289]

i lined up the block + a568, drilled straight through the ear and in the transmission case and put a dowel pin with there.

took it off, back on - perfectly aligned. i'll take pics next time in the garage.

This is where RBryant's trans dust shield really came in handy. I just bolted the dust shield to the trans, marked out the hole with a marker and drilled it out. I also moved the line up pin to another hole (on the top bell holes) so that I would have true center to drill the step on and therefore have the trans totally straight.

[Austrian Dodge]

correct, rich's dust shield really helped!! also makes it look a lot cleaner!

[cobra2411]

I started my front mount. Basically I cut the stock 2.5 mount in half and used cardboard to make templates for the motor and trans side of the engine mount. I cut plates out of 1/8" plate on a band saw and welded them together. Then I added to the mount with more 1/8" plate to connect the original mount and to add a strap for the ear on the engine. I'm going to use the "stud" option where I remove the dowel pin and put in a bolt to make a stud...

I'm going to cut up the original mount some more to get a nice curved piece to fill in the left side.