What weight oil for SRT4?

[Keito]

To dredge up an OLD thread, I found this at work, I was wondering also about oil weight:

"The Owner’s Manual in about 3,300 of the above vehicles incorrectly recommends
Mobil 1® 10W-30 synthetic engine oil. Although this oil will not harm the engine,
emissions and fuel economy testing of the SRT-4 was performed with 5W-30
mineral based engine oil. Emission regulations require that the oil used for
emission and fuel economy testing be the same as the oil that is recommended in
the Owner’s Manual for normal driving and use."

Just passing it along because there didn't seem to be a final answer.

Mine must have been one of the 3300, since I got a yellow
card saying I should use 5-30 instead of 10.

[neongary]

The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, so I don't know what everyone is stressing about. 5W/10W is the viscosity of the oil when cold. So those of you "beating" on the car after it's warmed up, it doesn't make a flip of difference if its 5W-30 or 10W-30. 5W flows better than 10W when it's cold, something you really want in a OHC engine. You want the oil to get to the upper areas of the engine as quickly as possible. Nearly every car and light truck these days specifies 5W-30.

[Speedeuphoria]

hence why I run 0w-40
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

[neongary]

hence why I run 0w-40
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

That's great, but be careful when choosing a oil with such a wide range of viscosity. More non-beneficial additives are put into such oils to give them that wide range than a oil with a narrower range. (5W-30 vs 5W-50 for example)

[turbovanman²]

The second number (30) is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, so I don't know what everyone is stressing about. 5W/10W is the viscosity of the oil when cold. So those of you "beating" on the car after it's warmed up, it doesn't make a flip of difference if its 5W-30 or 10W-30. 5W flows better than 10W when it's cold, something you really want in a OHC engine. You want the oil to get to the upper areas of the engine as quickly as possible. Nearly every car and light truck these days specifies 5W-30.

I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

[CSX321]

hence why I run 0w-40
Want the oil fast to the engine, I dont drive it alot so it may help, and no way I beat on it cold.

Same here: Mobil1 0W-40. That is a very good oil, IMO. From what I've read, it has excellent resistance to breakdown at high temperatures.

[neongary]

I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

People should be educated, so your insight and experience is helpful for those that need to make a decision. I'm not going to spout my credentials, that would be pointless, but like you I am going to stick to what works. I've never had a engine/turbo/trans/rear failure by using oil weight recommendations provided by the manufacturer. I'm not a scientist or engineer and guess just too chicken to experiment.

[turbovanman²]

People should be educated, so your insight and experience is helpful for those that need to make a decision. I'm not going to spout my credentials, that would be pointless, but like you I am going to stick to what works. I've never had a engine/turbo/trans/rear failure by using oil weight recommendations provided by the manufacturer. I'm not a scientist or engineer and guess just too chicken to experiment.

Well, the oil was free, hahahahaha,

[05acr/88shelby]

i run amsoil 5w40.

[WVRampage]

My Volvo calles for 5w-30 oil unless you use sythetic and then it calls for 10w-30 so I think 10w-30 should be fine.

[WickedShelby88]

The wider the range say like 5W-50 the more quickly the oil breaks down. As far as viscosity goes your best bet in a turbo turd is say SAE 30 or 40... Wouldn't ever go 50 regardless unless the engine clearances necessitated as such. Like an old big block .... Even then it would be like 20W---. Synthetic for those of you who never read or have never heard this is actually still dino based.. Yeah thats right mineral based...!!!, but not as we know it. There is a chemical reaction or a lab situation that forces the molecules to conform to certain tolerances controlled in the size or weight that is desired which is why synthetic oils will beat the snot out of naturally occuring mineral oil hands down. So if it calls for 5W30 and your running synthetic and changing it every 3k your engine should literally run forever if you don't beat on it... Thats pretty much overkill from a daily driver standpoint which I would much rather be doing than dragging it out like "they" say you can. DIRT AND HEAT are the main things that kill an engine. Mechanical fatigue is next, but only if you beat on it or the engines design causes it to stress as such IE the f---ing 2.5 engine.. The rod ratio in that sh--box along with the piston design is horrid.. Its still good enough to go 200k, but if you don't beat on them.. You ever pull pistons that ever made it past 150k and you will know what I mean.. the fronts and backs will look like they were having a bad day to say the least. The 2.4 is a very well designed and engineered engine.. That sucker is good to at least 400hp with a stock bottom end.. I'd say you will be OKAY..

[Greedy]

I disagree, theory is a wonderful thing but reality sometimes shows us differently. I get to change alot of oil and know what viscosity I put in my customers cars, the thinner oils, IE 5w30, 0w30's etc come out warm like runny piss water, the thicker oils, 10w40, 15w40 come out substantially thicker. Years ago, I got sponsored by BG products, they gave me 0w40 race oil to use, it went in my 93 cbr900rr race bike, lets just say, bad choice, my gear box let go that year-I should never have run it because you could feel how notchy the shifting became. I replaced it with a used gear box, went back to Castrol 20w50 GTX and never had an issue again. We can argue until were blue in the face but for the average driver, yes, oil weight doesn't matter, but add a turbo, more boost, race it etc, then you need a thicker oil.

Why don't you just use straight 50 weight?

[WickedShelby88]

Its really too thick if your running factory bearing clearances and such. You will run into problems with wear when the engine is cold.