Starts fine cold. After running it is having issues. I'm leaning towards fuel pump. Any other ideas?? Car seems to always throw code 22... this despite a brand new sensor. the fan cycles normally so it is working.
Starts fine cold. After running it is having issues. I'm leaning towards fuel pump. Any other ideas?? Car seems to always throw code 22... this despite a brand new sensor. the fan cycles normally so it is working.
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
what kind of issue's exactly? just starting?
hep's like to act up when warm, just a thought.
That's what I'm looking for. More ideas. Yes, seems to be just starting. I haven't driven it. I will be checking it when my son comes home. Hard to start then dies. Code 22 might cause this as well.Originally Posted by mo' parts
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
+1 on hall effect, especially if it died in traffic.
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Nope.. doesn't have the issue until warm start. Runs fine while it's going
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
My 89 Shadow T1 had the same problems as your car. It would start instantly when it was cold, but as soon as it was up to operating temp, and was shut off, it would take quite a few cranks to restart. My car had alot of little problems from when i was trying to get better gas mileage, and i replaced alot of things, but the one thing that fixed it's warm start issue the best was my cam timing being off one tooth... another thing that was wrong with my car was three injectors were slightly leaking. They weren't leaking bad enough to wash the oil down with gas, but probebly leaked enough to cause it to flood after sitting for a bit. After replacing the injectors with new ones, and fixing my cam timing my car starts on the first crank when it's warm. Does you're car still have the stock CAT?
Hope this helps
Ken,
I think I'd look into that code 22 a little closer. Try probing the signal wire from the cts with a multimeter and see what the voltage is when the engine is warm and having starting troubles. Should be the tan/black wire. I'd check it at the ecm as well to rule out the possibility of a wiring problem. The schematic I'm looking at shows it as pin #2.
HTH,
If 22 is for the coolant temp, then yeah, it will make it a bugger to start when hot. They fail on the cold side so the computer thinks its at -34 or something like that. Its like when you disconnect the CTS, then try to start it, its very hard and you have to float the gas pedal. Ken, stuff is on the way,
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Prior to swapping in a new motor this week, my 90 Daytona also had issues when starting warm. i.e. after driving a few miles, stopping by a friend's house, and then restarting the car to drive off, the car would be terribly hard to start (I would have to tap the gas to keep RPM's up and keep the car from stalling). Also, once the car would start going, it would be very sluggish and unresponsive as in gas to acceleration. The entire car would rock very hard when trying to start it. But, after about 20mph, everything smoothed out?
With this new motor in , I have not experienced this set of circumstances yet thankfull. HEP could be the cause, but I kept the same HEP on this new motor that was also on the one I took out. The result is that I have not had the same problems.
Coil- Had a 90 sundance that would always start cold. Got hot- no start. Drove me nuts. Been fine ever since after changing coils, at least in this case... G.P.
Exactly what it is doing. New bearings and rings in the car. Compression is great.
Thanks for the coil Idea 3N... I have a few I could swap. I'll give it a shot
Ken Adler....
Cars, A few (9)
Had a similar issue and a bad (pinhole leaking) FPR was the culprit.
Ken, definitely check your rubber fuel lines and FPR. I did change those out and now that I think about it, it seemed to help afterwards. The FPR, however, did have a bad O-ring which I did not discover until I pulled the motor out.
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