Vacuum Block Installation Questions that Left Unanswered

[DC Turismo]

Hello everyone.

I did some searching on vacuum block installation, but still have a few questions that I did not find answers for, and would like to here soon so I can get my car out of the garage!

First, however, I found that I need to attach a vacuum line from the vacuum block to

A) Wastegate Can on turbo
B) MAP Sensor
C) Boost Gauge (Where is the factory vacuum line for this?)
D) Heater (??????)

In my 1990 Daytona, I have upgraded to a Garrett turbo, and from what I understand I must bypass the wastegate solenoid since I have upgraded from the stock Mitsu. By this, I am running a vac. line straight from the vac. block to the wastegate can on top of the turbo.

-----------------------------------------
Questions I still have though:

By installing this vac. block, I was hoping to eliminate the mangled mess of vaccuum lines that are tied into the vac. line setup that runs in front of the intake and behind the valve cover (connecting to the TB in two places, amongst other things). Can this all be eliminated, or is that to stay? I notice that al of the lines in this setup condense into one that connects to some sort of gizmo that is attached at the front of the passenger side wheel well. Can a vaccuum line be run from there to the block?

Finally, with the heater needing to be hooked up to the vacuum block, where is the vac. line for this located?

Do I have all of the necessary vacuum lines covered? If not, what have I forgotten? What can I remove from the car that is not necessary to make this process easier?

Thank you in advance!

Let's get this solved once and for all so we can throw the given info into a condensed writeup in the Knowledge Center!!!11

[D1A8J]

i believe u need a vac line for the FPR and BOV


- Dave

for my spirit r/t im gonna run off of my block the following... FPR, BOV, WA, boost gauge

[Murphy]

that is the setup i had on my daytona

the line for the heater controls are on the brake booster

[Mopar_Nutz]

Mine is similar to Murph's but I don't have the PCV system. And instead of splitting the MBC and BOV line, I run my BOV off the small nipple on the throttle body and the MBC is off the compressor housing of my turbo.

[Murphy]

my turbo doesnt have a nipple.....maybe i should add one while its off the car to give me one more opening. I've herd its better to use a manifold vac source for the BOV then the TB, but i dont know if theres really any truth to that.

I read something on the BM chatbox about MBC location..........
if you do it to the manifold, when you let off the gas, the MBC will see vac and stay closed, helping to keep the turbo spooled
but if you connect it to the nipple on the turbo, when you let off the gas the boost builds up in the IC and pipng, the WG will open

i dont know how much of an effect this has if you have a BOV tho, probly not much if any........

on the topic of what can be eliminated......right off the bat you can take out the purge/charcoal canister setup and just leave the line from the tank open.....dont plug it. With the purge setup gone, you can get rid of the setup that goes to the TB and PCV, and just run from the manifold to the PCV. You can also eliminate the WG solenoid and just run a MBC. even tho you are not using the solenoids, you can not remove them or it will set off your check engine light.

BTW, my vac block is installed in the place of the IAT

[DC Turismo]

I installed my vac. block in place of the bung for the brake booster, like straight back from the TB. It looks good there, I'm satisfied with it for now.

So, I have done has you said Murph and taken out all of those dang on lines related to the TB, PCV, and then trail down to the solenoids on the passenger side inner fender. Now, do I look the TB bungs with a single vacuum hose as well, or should I run a separate vac. hose off of each bung and onto the vac. block.

Also, who mentioned something about the heater vacuum hose? The only thing I see that is related to the heater on my hood diagram is that the 'Y' that comes off of the brake booster splits three ways - one for the brake booster to the manifold, one vac. line to the cruise control, and then one split that has a connecter pushed on (larger version of those used on the TB's) that then decreases into a very small line/wire and appears to go through the firewall. Should I leave that there or hook a vacuum line up to the block in its place? In either case, why?

Thanks for the help guys! Here is my diagram so far:

|-----------------|
| X___X__X__X__|_X
| |___ | _ | _ |__|_|
| MAP FPR WG TB | TB
|-----------------|

That is how mine looks at this time. Most likely, if I am correct in this assumption, I will just loop one vac. line over to the block from the TB and cap the other bung on the TB? Then, I do need to put the boost gauge in the second TB's postition (as soon as I find where it comes out through the firewall (help?) It is a thick line that hooks onto the back of the gauge cluster itself, but I don't know where it goes? lol...

[shelby zed]

mine has one for boost guage, fpr, wastegate, map, brake booster,thats all required, and now catch can and dual stage boost controller

[Murphy]

Now, do I look the TB bungs with a single vacuum hose as well, or should I run a separate vac. hose off of each bung and onto the vac. block.

I linked the to bungs together

Also, who mentioned something about the heater vacuum hose? The only thing I see that is related to the heater on my hood diagram is that the 'Y' that comes off of the brake booster splits three ways - one for the brake booster to the manifold, one vac. line to the cruise control, and then one split that has a connecter pushed on (larger version of those used on the TB's) that then decreases into a very small line/wire and appears to go through the firewall. Should I leave that there or hook a vacuum line up to the block in its place? In either case, why?

the one with the connector is the line for your heater controls

I do need to put the boost gauge in the second TB's postition (as soon as I find where it comes out through the firewall (help?) It is a thick line that hooks onto the back of the gauge cluster itself, but I don't know where it goes? lol...

on my shelby Z, the stock vac line for the boost gauge T'd off the map line and went thru the firewall with the wiring harness. If your installing an aftermarket gauge, I would just run the hard line that came with the gauge thru the firewall where the heater core hoses are.

[DC Turismo]

Gotcha. For now I'm running the factory gauge, so I'll have to look for it then. It's a 1/4 hose that connects to the back of the cluster, so I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for it.

As for the heater controls, do I leave the connector on the brake booster or remove the connector and run a vacuum line from it to the block then?

[overlordsshadow]

I would personally leave the connection from the intake mani to the brake boostie intact.

[DC Turismo]

I would personally leave the connection from the intake mani to the brake boostie intact.

Yes I have done that. I just extended it over to the next bung with longer hose.

I started the car up for the first time and it turned over perfect and seemed to idle fine. I guess I'll find out exactly if there are any vacuum line related problems once I pull it out of the garage, including the heat line. I still don't know what that is about. Should there be a vacuum hose coming off of that brake booster onto the vacuum block or no?

[overlordsshadow]

The small hose that comes off the brake booster? Kind of like a plastic line?

[firebaron90]

finally, with the heater needing to be hooked up to the vacuum block, where is the vac. line for this located?


That small plastic line is for the 4 way heater control valve. Leave that connected to the fitting on the brake booster. That Item on the brake booster is actually a check valve.

Joe

[DC Turismo]

Thanks guys! I got everything hooked up how it needed to be and it starts up like a charm and purs like a kitten!!!!! muahaha Best of all it runs like a monster.

I just have to re-run the boost gauge vacuum line. But that'll come in a day or two! Thanks again for the assistance, I appreciate it!