Installing a Fuel Pump

[Spraynlog]

It had been about 5 years since I did this last time. I forgot a couple items.

Figure on having a free afternoon for this, I spent 3-4 hours on it.

I backed the T&C wagon up on ramps to start with, and blocked the wheels.
Since I still had 1/2 a tank full of gas, I got a 5 gallon gas can and did the following; Disconnected the 1/4" fuel return line off the FPR (engine off of course ) I rumaged around in the garage until I found a 4 foot length of 1/4" clear vinyl tubing. Installed the tubing onto the return barb on the FPR, dropped it over the front fender into the 5 gal. can. Started the car and ran the gas out of the tank until the flow stopped.

Next up, got the floor jack and a small piece of wood and placed the jack under the fuel tank so it wouldn't drop when I took off the fuel tank straps.
Then, under the car, unplug the electrical wires to the pump and the fuel gauge sending unit. Now go up under the hood and relieve the pressure on the fuel system by taking the cap off the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Get a shop rag and wrap around the area to soak up the gas that sprays out.
Stay out of the line of fire, or you could get it in the face! Then go back under the car and take off the fuel hoses to the pump and return lines. If they are original equipment, just cut them off and get new 50psi rated stuff to redo it with. I got some more gas out on the driveway here, so a catch can would be good....second choice is to get a rag to soak up the mess.

Here is where I forgot something. When I tried to lower the tank, I realized I needed to take the screws out of the filler neck up where the gas cap is.
Then after some kicking and rolling around, I found it useful to remove the passenger side rear tire to get the @!#$% fuel filler neck out of the tank so it would drop past the axle. I would suggest using jack stands and taking off the rear tire before getting in the middle of this. Hindsight is 20/20.

Now, I had the tank on a work bench, and it was time to remove the pump.
DO NOT use a steel hammer/screwdriver on this! Sparks are BAD when around an empty gas tank!!! I used a piece of hardwood plank I had and hit the wood with the hammer to avoid sparks. Notice that I am still here to write this. Clean the area around the lock ring/pump very well to avoid having dirt drop into the tank....dirt will KILL a new pump! Then use the wood/hammer combo to loosen the lock ring and remove the pump. Install the new pump and carefully install the lock ring. Tap it tight with the wood/hammer combo again. Reinstall the gas tank. using new 50 psi rated fuel line. Fill the gas tank with the can you ran out of the FPR before you started.
If it's a week later, you may need to go to the gas station on your bike to refill the can.... Check for leaks. Enjoy the boost!

Please feel free to add to my list of stuff. I may have forgotten something.
Once we get it all covered, maybe it could be a 'sticky' for future use.

[cordes]

I used a brass punch to knock the ring off, and it worked really well. I tried a wooden dowl, but it was not strong enough to remove the old rusty ring.

[Spraynlog]

I'll add another item I forgot in the first post. When you are unscrewing the
fuel filler neck, stuff a rag into the open end. This will prevent dirt from inside the wheelwell from falling into it while you are pulling it out.

[Clay]

dont know about other cars, but in an L-body you can change the pump with the tank in the car.

Jack up the passenger side rear, allow axle to drop, remove pass. rear tire, and you have fairly decent access to the pump.

[tryingbe]

I can remove the fuel pump in both my 85 GLH and 89 Daytona Shelby without jacking up the car at all.

[Anonymous_User]

without jacking up the car at all

a.) Your car must sit really high

or

b.) You must be really skinnny

I'd never get my fat a$$ under the car far enough and actually be able to move around enough to change a pump without jacking the car up.

[tryingbe]

Stock springs and aftermarket struts and shocks for both cars.

5'7 and 165 lbs.

[Spraynlog]

dont know about other cars, but in an L-body you can change the pump with the tank in the car.

Jack up the passenger side rear, allow axle to drop, remove pass. rear tire, and you have fairly decent access to the pump.

Hmmm...this might have worked on the T & C agon also. The only drawback I see would be the ability to see and clean the area around the lock ring before taking the pump out. The lip of the tank and the area at the bottom of the lock ring can be packed with road grime and dirt. Mine was pretty grungy. I wouldn't want to get a handfull of dirt into the gas tank! On the other hand, it would avoid the hassle with the filler neck.
I'll check it out next time.

[Vigo]

ive done the l-body pump without dropping anything, and on the k-cars, the way i do it now (on the ground anyway) is jack up the body as high as you want, but let the suspension droop. this gives you good access to the pump. i have done it without lowering the tank any but its much more chance of bending up the pump assembly trying to get it in/out. so i drop the straps and let the tank hang as much as it will with the filler still in and then do the pump. after a few times its pretty easy.