rebuild questions needs answers ASAP!

[WOP'R]

i need to decide what im going to do to my engine and now im asking for help because i keep changing my mind

for background ill be taking the head off due to a blown head gasket and wear on the cam lobes

Theres a few things that i know ill be doing such as...
pressure test and mill the head
Lonewolf S1 cam grind
Lonewolf exhaust mani port/coat
along with cryotreating and dry film lubing the cams and int shaft/oil pump gear.
head studs and cometic gasket

Now my question is, on top of that should i:
-buy titanium lash adjusters? mine are in good shape. Aside from the plastic breaking off what else may happen? (couldnt find down falls of the stock unit)

rebuild the head while its off? ie valve job, seals yadda yadda yadda? or just install the new cams and retainers?

get a 3 angle valve job done? How much HP would i expect from this alone?

and lastly what are your thoughts on cryotreating all the components in the head?

the reason im asking the above is because with that money saved i could get a cal written and/or buy adjustable cam gears

[Fast4Ward]

oh the r/t stress....LOL
with the amount of $$ saved on the purchase dude you should be able overhaul the whole drivetrain

[WOP'R]

hahaha arent you funny.

After my first project i told my self to keep it simple

[Fast4Ward]

the new headache is hardly simple....td's spend more time off the road than on...lol

[Lotashelbys]

I can help you out with most of those ?s. I would rather talk on the phone than type tho

[turbovanman²]

No such thing as titanium lifters, you must mean titanium valve spring retainers and if you wait my impatient son, I'll have a cheaper alternative.
I am reusing my old lifters, you just have to be careful when you put it back together.

[WOP'R]

No such thing as titanium lifters, you must mean titanium valve spring retainers and if you wait my impatient son, I'll have a cheaper alternative.
I am reusing my old lifters, you just have to be careful when you put it back together.

fwdperformance sells lifters that replace the plastic with titanium.

Not impatient, just like to plan ahead. the retainers were on the must buy list and there was no point in asking if i should get them....untell now

care to sare the new product?

[WOP'R]

I can help you out with most of those ?s. I would rather talk on the phone than type tho

what do you mean by help out? as in you can cryo treat or less or share you knowledge?

[turbovanman²]

fwdperformance sells lifters that replace the plastic with titanium.

Not impatient, just like to plan ahead. the retainers were on the must buy list and there was no point in asking if i should get them....untell now

care to sare the new product?

There not titanium, there steel. Your mixing them up with the valve spring retainers-

Name: 16V replacement lifter (single)
Part Number: FWD 43-0585
Description:
Replacement lifters for the t-3 lotus head. Price is for a single lifter. (BACK IN STOCK! but only a couple remaining, ETA on more March 07)
Price: $26.00

qty:




Name: 16V Replacement Lifters
Part Number: FWD 43-0199
Description:
Replacement lifters for the t-3 lotus head. Price is for a set of 16. (OUT OF STOCK!, ETA March 07)

Jackson has lots of knowledge he can share.

I told you already, I am coming up with valve springs so you dont' need to buy titanium retainers,

[Lotashelbys]

OK,if I were you I would definatly go with the titanuim retainers(unless Simon has a good cheaper alternative) I would get the cometic HG and the ARP studs(no questions there) and have the head milled(make sure its an RA 50 or smoother) If the valves are leaking I would go with a good 3-angle valve job(especially on the exhaust side as the intake is radious cut stock) Make sure that before you get it milled you have the stupid oil hole welded up thats on the drivers side rear corner next that head bolt hole! If your head dont already have alum core plugs get some. There are two ways to go about that:#1,screw them in finger tight and weld them in. #2, Torque them in using some ultra black Permatex for a little "cushion" to 60 In/LBs
As for lifters,I have re-used stock ones a few times with no problems. If some are missing the little plastic retainer I would find some good used one to replace those. Cindy has a stash of good used ones that you could get from her if need be. But, if you have the cash go with the improved INA units. Just be careful when you are pulling them out of the rockers you dont lose any of the lifter discs!
As for the cams LWP stage1s would be a nice upgrade. I have not run any of these yet but talking to Wallace it sounds like they are worth about 50 HP. Getting them cryoed while you are at it a a very good idea. That depends or the rest of you setup alot tho also.
As for your I-staft,get the newest version of one and get that cryoed as well. You are gonna want to put new bearings in also. Every time I have had a TIII pulled down the bearing is on its way out. If you have the whole motor out getting the block decked is a good idea when using s Cometic HG also. Anyhow,long enough for now hope this gave you some ideas

[turbovanman²]

Make sure that before you get it milled you have the stupid oil hole welded up thats on the drivers side rear corner next that head bolt hole!

I saw Cliffs post on that, going to get it threaded and use a plug then it will be milled flat after my valve job,

[WOP'R]

OK,if I were you I would definatly go with the titanuim retainers(unless Simon has a good cheaper alternative) I would get the cometic HG and the ARP studs(no questions there) and have the head milled(make sure its an RA 50 or smoother) If the valves are leaking I would go with a good 3-angle valve job(especially on the exhaust side as the intake is radious cut stock) Make sure that before you get it milled you have the stupid oil hole welded up thats on the drivers side rear corner next that head bolt hole! If your head dont already have alum core plugs get some. There are two ways to go about that:#1,screw them in finger tight and weld them in. #2, Torque them in using some ultra black Permatex for a little "cushion" to 60 In/LBs
As for lifters,I have re-used stock ones a few times with no problems. If some are missing the little plastic retainer I would find some good used one to replace those. Cindy has a stash of good used ones that you could get from her if need be. But, if you have the cash go with the improved INA units. Just be careful when you are pulling them out of the rockers you dont lose any of the lifter discs!
As for the cams LWP stage1s would be a nice upgrade. I have not run any of these yet but talking to Wallace it sounds like they are worth about 50 HP. Getting them cryoed while you are at it a a very good idea. That depends or the rest of you setup alot tho also.
As for your I-staft,get the newest version of one and get that cryoed as well. You are gonna want to put new bearings in also. Every time I have had a TIII pulled down the bearing is on its way out. If you have the whole motor out getting the block decked is a good idea when using s Cometic HG also. Anyhow,long enough for now hope this gave you some ideas

thanks for the info the oil hole. I new i was forgeting something.

And regarding the int shaft: what do you mean by the newest version?

Im still undecided about cryoing the whole top end. Anyone ever grenade a valve or rocker arm on these heads?


once again thanks for the info thus far

[turbovanman²]

And regarding the int shaft: what do you mean by the newest version?

Dude, you gotta listen, TI OR TII shaft

[WOP'R]

Dude, you gotta listen, TI OR TII shaft

and in your logic, lotashelbys is saying to use the TIII shaft when you've said they arent as strong even though you said he knows his stuff sooooooooooo clarification is in order correct?
maybe he was refering to a reman unit like the ones cindy is selling.
Thats why ppl ask questions ....all you gotta do is listen

[turbovanman²]

and in your logic, lotashelbys is saying to use the TIII shaft when you've said they arent as strong even though you said he knows his stuff sooooooooooo clarification is in order correct?
maybe he was refering to a reman unit like the ones cindy is selling.
Thats why ppl ask questions ....all you gotta do is listen

Cindy sells the same shaft for all engines, I keep telling you this. There is no updated shaft. And for the record, he said use the updated shaft, not TIII specific.

[Lotashelbys]

OK,Ok,settle down I will get the P/N off one of my good ones when I go out to my shop tonight. All the commonblocks used the same shaft but Mopar came out with a better heat treated one after all the first 91 TIIIs had so many problems. When I compared the two side by side the "newer" unit had a little more beefier looking teeth that drive the oil pump.

You do know the trick of using an 8valve I-shaft gear and using an 8valve tensioner with the belt guides machined off an no idler wooks with the stock TIII belt right? You can do it that way if you dont want to keep over-driving the I-shaft like e stock TIII does

Someday when I get some time I am gonna make a custom tensioner to do just this.

[WOP'R]

Cindy sells the same shaft for all engines, I keep telling you this. There is no updated shaft. And for the record, he said use the updated shaft, not TIII specific.

i know she does

your right there is no updated shaft, he never said updated shaft, he told me to get the newest shaft. I was asking what he ment by it. Could be that he was talkn about ditching the one in the block for a "new" reman simply for the sake that its a reman, or he could be talking about making sure to stay with TIII seeing how the TIII engine is "newer" than the TII. Or he could be talking about getting a TI/II shaft because as you have said "its better". You and i dont know what he ment by it...thats why i was asking him

we've had this discusion about the shaft via PM. I know your view on the topic.

AND DAMNET! MY THREAD IS OFF TOPIC AGAIN!

BACK ON TOPIC
cryo everything?..worth it?
lotashelbys: what do you mean by newer shaft?
anyone got links to the oil hole plug thread?

[WOP'R]

OK,Ok,settle down I will get the P/N off one of my good ones when I go out to my shop tonight. All the commonblocks used the same shaft but Mopar came out with a better heat treated one after all the first 91 TIIIs had so many problems. When I compared the two side by side the "newer" unit had a little more beefier looking teeth that drive the oil pump.
.

HA I WIN!

[Lotashelbys]

and in your logic, lotashelbys is saying to use the TIII shaft when you've said they arent as strong even though you said he knows his stuff sooooooooooo clarification is in order correct?
:

Simon may think that the TIII shaft isnt as strong but its the same as the TI and TIIs. The reasons why him along with others may think its not as strong is because you rarely ever hear of a 8valve one going bad. That is because they are overdriven on the TIII do to a smaller gear. Then if the timing belt isnt properly tensioned it causes alot more strain on the bearings. So you got two bad things going on at once and after time the shaft either strips out or the bearings fail

[WOP'R]

You do know the trick of using an 8valve I-shaft gear and using an 8valve tensioner with the belt guides machined off an no idler wooks with the stock TIII belt right? You can do it that way if you dont want to keep over-driving the I-shaft like e stock TIII does

Someday when I get some time I am gonna make a custom tensioner to do just this.

No i didnt know that, thats a realy neat idea!

question regarding the i shaft itself. Seeing how the 92+ i shafts have, as you said a 'beefier' gear, would the Common Block oil pump align up with the oil pump gear properly?