SBEC and Ostrich trouble

[AzShadow]

Im trying to make a calibration and use my Ostrich on my SBEC. I have a professionally socketed SBEC that I purchased from a member on TD and the chip converter that Quantum was selling a while back. I assume that all the hardware is working as it should because when i load the stock .bin from the stock cal repository onto the Ostrich it runs the car. I have been trying to use Turbonator SBEC to make a cal and both dCal and Chem to edit them. I read the instructions posted in the Tubonator SBEC thread and watched the youtube videos posted on this forum in the tuning tutorial thread but everytime i load one of the .bin's that i made it will never start the car. The fuel pump doesnt even pressurize when i turn the ignition on. so far in all my research ive never come across anything where i say "AH HA!" i see where i went wrong. it seems like im missing something for sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


btw...the car is a 90 shadow, auto, 2bar +40s

[bakes]

using the right offset?

[tryingbe]

8000 off set when using SST27SF512 chip

[AzShadow]

i will have to double check tonight but in EmUtility i have the defaults which are file start address as 0x0000 and size 0x8000 with the End Justify RAM I/0 box checked. is this correct or do i need to change the file start address?

[x.Gen]

clear the end justify box.

[AzShadow]

still nothing so far, i can get it to start using the Phosphate Software and stock .bin cal. Im currently in contact with Rob on where i might have gone wrong using Turbonator. Thanks for the help guys

[AzShadow]

UPDATE: I tried Robs new T-SBEC code and got it to work like it should…kinda

The car would only start and run properly with the ostrich USB plugged into my laptop. If it wasn’t plugged in, the fuel pump wouldn’t prime when I turned the ignition on and it would start but run like total sh*t. Plug the USB into the laptop and like magic the fuel pump would pressurize when I turned the key on and it would run like it should.

Pulled the cover off the ostrich and tested the battery and im getting between 2.8V and 2.9V on the 3V battery. I would just replace it but its got tiny tack welds holding it in so I want to be sure its my battery before I hack it up getting it out and putting a new one in.

Finally I Tried one more time starting it with the laptop plugged in and it wouldn’t do anything. The tach even jumped all around when I turned the ignition on like there wasn’t even a chip in there. Reloaded the bin with the laptop plugged in and same thing. I tried doing some research on moates forum about this and found a few ppl with this problem but never found the answer.

Think it’s the battery or something else funky?

[risen]

UPDATE: I tried Robs new T-SBEC code and got it to work like it should…kinda

The car would only start and run properly with the ostrich USB plugged into my laptop. If it wasn’t plugged in, the fuel pump wouldn’t prime when I turned the ignition on and it would start but run like total sh*t. Plug the USB into the laptop and like magic the fuel pump would pressurize when I turned the key on and it would run like it should.

IDK if the battery on your ostrich is the culprit or not, those things are supposed to last for a long time and your dvom isn't likely to ever read exactly 3.0v.

Do you have a chip extender or something else between the ostrich and your sbec? Or is it just the ostrich ribbon cable?

[AzShadow]

yeah i read they were supposed to last forever as well.

Between the ost and the sbec i have quantums chip converter that he was selling a while back.

[risen]

yeah i read they were supposed to last forever as well.

Between the ost and the sbec i have quantums chip converter that he was selling a while back.

I'm pretty sure that the battery only supplies voltage for the SRAM onboard the ostrich (where your cal is stored). So, as long as your cal is there and uncorrupted between the times when it's not working correctly and working correctly, the battery is doing it's job.

My only guess is that maybe the chip converter isn't giving enough power to the ostrich when it's time to run and the USB is providing enough additional voltage to the ostrich to run it properly. Maybe try and check the voltage on pin 28 of the eeprom socket on the adapter board (If you're looking at the socket with the 'u' at the top facing upwards, it's the upper right hand pin on the chip). See what the voltage on that looks like without the USB plugged in with the car running like crap. Then try and check it with the USB plugged in, and see what the voltage is.

[AzShadow]

If im testing the voltage at pin 28, what do i take as my reference? (put the other mulitmeter probe on?) im not the best at electronic stuff...obviously

[risen]

If im testing the voltage at pin 28, what do i take as my reference? (put the other mulitmeter probe on?) im not the best at electronic stuff...obviously

Any good ground should be OK, though a clean connection to the battery is probably best. You're looking for around 5v at that pin. Pin 28 is the voltage supply pin for the eeprom chip. I'm not sure but I'd imagine that the ostrich is using it for it's supply voltage when there's no USB.

Some of the components on the ostrich may be able to operate all the way down to 4.5v but the closer to 5 the better. The comparison with the USB plugged in should be telling.

[AzShadow]

thanks for your help, if i have time today after work im going to try this out

[turbovanman²]

Contact Quantam, I think he had a few bad chip extenders.

[AzShadow]

yeah i got one from the first batch that had a few bad ones in it...sent it back to him way back when and he said he fixed it and shipped it back out...i just really havent been able to try it out till just now.

[AzShadow]

now i couldnt get it to start again with the ost. no matter what i did

since i couldn't get it running i tested #28 with the ignition on... 4.96 -5.0V with the laptop plugged in, same thing without, so its getting power. Sent quantum a pm....its gotta be the something in the converter or the ost itself.

btw...i had the cover off the SBEC when i was doing this and it was making a weird high pitch wining noise...

[ShelGame]

Power supply on the SBEC might be dead...

[AzShadow]

Power supply on the SBEC might be dead...

The socketed SBEC i bought came with one chip with a stock tune on it. I removed the converter and popped that guy in after i got a no go on the ost. and it fired right up so i assume all is well with the SBEC

[risen]

The socketed SBEC i bought came with one chip with a stock tune on it. I removed the converter and popped that guy in after i got a no go on the ost. and it fired right up so i assume all is well with the SBEC

Do you still get the high freq noise with the chip in? Or is it only with the ostrich in? And do you have you tried to use a 257 chip w/o the converter?

[AzShadow]

Do you still get the high freq noise with the chip in? Or is it only with the ostrich in? And do you have you tried to use a 257 chip w/o the converter?

No high freq noise with the chip in. Also, when i DID get the ost to randomly work i never remember hearing any high freq noise. And yeah i never use the converter with the chip, just plug it straight in the socket in the SBEC and go.