pros and cons about this part.

[TurboII]

ok i just wanna know if anybody has used this, i was origanllygonna run 14psi but couldnt because of the surg (boost cut off at 14.7) tell me you guys or gals think about this device and what would i have to do to run it.

88 chrysler lebaron 5spd
Tll engine stock internals
a-555 with shelby clutch and flywheel
running 11psi now
Tll computer
bigger injectors (36 pounders), MFPR, welbro 255 fuel pump
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/prod...caf708c1db7936

[turbovanman²]

That was what I used before I got a cal, they work awesome. Just make sure you turn up the boost slowly and watch your guages so you don't go lean.

[Anonymous_User]

I ran a home made one years ago. It isn't a replacement for a proper calibration, but if you are confident in watching your mixture and listening to your engine, it works great.

Be careful, this plus a grainger is the quickest recipe for burnt pistons if NOT USED PROPERLY.

[TurboII]

what is it tho a boost controller or a device that does in between

[cordes]

what is it tho a boost controller or a device that does in between

It interrupts the airflow to the waste gate actuator. There is a ball on a seat with a spring which will let off at a certain pressure and then the WG will open. That is how I am currently controlling the boost in my cars.

[TurboII]

so heres the thing i want to run between 11-16psi will i be better off with this device or get a cal

[cordes]

so heres the thing i want to run between 11-16psi will i be better off with this device or get a cal

IMO, I would just run the grainger and be done with it. I don't really see a need for a cal with those power levels from a necessity standpoint. Although I would keep it at around 14PSI with an IC so that you don't have to fool the map etc.

[TurboII]

well i have the 3 bar map if thats a reason been meaning to use it

[Speedeuphoria]

what is it tho a boost controller or a device that does in between

this device is a map sensor bleed!

the factory computer's map max's out at ~15psi, well you set this to bleed off everything over 15psi so you dont hit cutout. Prob is that the car still thinks your making 15psi and your really making 18or so(however you have it set)

that valve is just a grainger which you would/could use to raise the boost as described in post#5

but as post 2 and 3 say you must be carefull


before you get one, what turbo and IC are you running?
and get an IC if you dont have one

[turbovanman²]

The cut out raiser is a great device, sometimes it will spike and this prevents your head from hitting the winshield. If your keeping it low, an MBC, cut-out raiser, AF guage and your all set.

[Speedeuphoria]

well i have the 3 bar map if thats a reason been meaning to use it

well you need a cal to use the 3bar map

then you dont need the cutout raiser and should be safer

if not using the above then do as Simon said and be careful

[Anonymous_User]

It interrupts the airflow to the waste gate actuator

NO.

That is a CUTOUT RAISER. It bleeds off the pressure signal to the MAP sensor.

[TurboII]

yea im not thinking of running one unless i have my stock computer upgraded to a 3 bar

[turbovanman²]

NO.

That is a CUTOUT RAISER. It bleeds off the pressure signal to the MAP sensor.

The MBC bleeds the pressure to the wastegate.

yea im not thinking of running one unless i have my stock computer upgraded to a 3 bar

You don't need a custom cal for the low boost your running, its a big waste of money. Do the cutout and MBC and watch your guages the first time out and you'll be very happy. I ran for 2 years that way.

[johnl]

The stock cal provides for overboost shut down - it cuts fuel and ignition after so many seconds of boost over a certain number of pounds of boost. So, really, this is only an issue during long pulls in 4th or 5th gear. (Assuming you have a 5 spd) That's because you don't spend enough time in "overboost" in the lower gears before you shift; you restart the computer's overboost shut down timer with each shift.

So, at first just use a grainger on the waste gate diaphram vacuum line to increase boost.

Then, only after you have the Air/Fuel - ignition timing - exhaust gas temperature complex sorted will it be safe to get the MBC. The point being that until your set up is correct - overboost shutdown is your friend. It's the safety valve against the heat that gets pushed into the pistons and builds up during long pulls in top gear.

[TurboII]

My car is all hooked up'd with that i bought everything for my lebaron and 14psi was my plan but overboost stopped me. can anybidy help me with what i would have to do to achieve my goal

[turbovanman²]

My car is all hooked up'd with that i bought everything for my lebaron and 14psi was my plan but overboost stopped me. can anybidy help me with what i would have to do to achieve my goal

Whats your goal?

As we've said, you can use the 2 devices and run around 15-16 psi all day long on stock hardware as long as you have an IC.

[TurboII]

my goal was to run 14psi and call it a day

[turbovanman²]

my goal was to run 14psi and call it a day

Well, I like the cutout so if you spike which can happen, you won't hit cutout.

The MBC gives your boost under the curve so to speak.