Throw out bearing making noise in neutral

[jeff1234]

Hello all, The problem I have is that the clutch engages about an inch off the floor and I can hear the T/O bearing making noise. This means that it is running against the clutch fingers all of the time. The clutch slips under power and I recently spoke with the guy who owned it before my friend, whom I bought it from. He said that when he replaced the clutch, it was the first one he ever did, and I am guessing that he didn't put the clutch pedal adjuster back to the starting position. I think this causes all of the cable slack to be taken up forcing the T/O against the fingers. I think what is causing the clutch to slip is the motor torquing forward, pulling on an already to tight clutch cable and partially disengaging the clutch.
Does anyone concur, if so, then my question is, what is the procedure to return the spring loaded pawl back to original position?
Thanks all jeff1234

[jeff1234]

Hey all, I did some way far back reading in transmission and it sounds like my clutch is about normal except for the T/O noise and the slipping. Any agreement on what I think the cause of the slipping is? My bobble strut lower cushion was worn so I ran a bolt into the rubber to tighten it up. This didn't help. If I am accelerating and the clutch slips, I can let off on the go pedal and then slam it back on the floor and the slipping stops. Go figure!
Any ideas?
jeff1234

[BadAssPerformance]

Try pulling up on the clutch pedal to see if it adjusts

Also, might want to check out this thread regarding TOB noise...

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...bearing+rattle

[jeff1234]

Thanks BAP, I had alsready tried the clutch pedal thing awhile back. No change. In a way this problem is bothering me because I am going to get a performance clutch soon and I have been reading about clutches that unexpectedly engage right off the floor, so I am trying to get a full understanding of what I am up against. Differences in clutch cover heights on the pressure plate assembly can account for some of these problems.
jeff1234

[jeff1234]

BAP, That was a great thread, thanks for pointing me at it. Have you had any experience with the T/U $165.00 clutch package. I dont think I will exceed 300 whp anytime soon. Would this one be a waste of time and money. Also, for a milder motor like I will have is the four puck overkill, (driveability ect.) or is the buy it once rule in play here?
jeff1234

[turbovanman²]

FYI, its normal and ok for the TOB to ride on the fingers all the time.

If you move the arm at the trans, how much play does it have?

Worn motor mounts won't affect the clutch as it uses a cable thats mounted solidly to the trans.

[jeff1234]

I think I have about an inch at the arm. jeff1234

[BadAssPerformance]

BAP, That was a great thread, thanks for pointing me at it. Have you had any experience with the T/U $165.00 clutch package. I dont think I will exceed 300 whp anytime soon. Would this one be a waste of time and money. Also, for a milder motor like I will have is the four puck overkill, (driveability ect.) or is the buy it once rule in play here?
jeff1234

No problem.

No experience with TU clutches, but I am sure that whatever HP they are advertized for that they will work for.

Puck clutches are nice however do not last as long as the full disk clutches. The sintered bronze puck material eats away at the steel surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate.

[TurboRon25]

To reset the clutch self-adjuster you pull the pedal up away from the floor (as previously stated). Then when you push on the pedal, you should hear a pop the first time (or first couple). This is the mechanism adjusting.

You may want to check your pedal and self-adjuster parts. The back side of the pedal arm has a spring pulling on a plastic block with teeth on one side. These teeth engage more plastic teeth on a kind of pivoting deal (very technical- I know). If one or more of these (plastic!) teeth are worn you will have your clutch engaging an inch off of the floor.

I don't know what car you are talking about, but I was able to pull off the 'jez-us' clip on the left of the pedal arm and slide it off the pivot bar. I replaced the whole pedal arm (the adjusting stuff is built right in). When looking at your mechanism it is obvious if the teeth are messed up.

Ron

[turbovanman²]

I think I have about an inch at the arm. jeff1234

An inch seems about right so its not binding up. If its slipping, its because its worn out or improper installation.

[jeff1234]

Thanks to everyone who replied; however mundane you might have veiwed the info you passed, it was very helpfull because it helps connect the dots on this end. The tip about worn out teeth in the adjuster was one I wouldn't have thought of and definately bears looking into, especially when I am going to replace the clutch.
jeff1234

[BadAssPerformance]

Glad you found the info helpful, that is what this forum is all about, helping others and learning from others too