Modded knuckles for L-body with 11" brakes

[iTurbo]

If I were to provide the knuckles from a '91+ car (such as an R/T or GTC), is there anyone anywhere that could modify them to be used with L-body struts?

....really wanting 11" brakes on the front of my GLH Turbo. I already have the 11" brakes on the rear and I think having 11" on the front would balance it out much better than the 60mm KH calipers and 10" rotors it has on the front now.

[Speedeuphoria]

I agree, you could also put cheap pads on teh rear and performance pads up front to help
not sure who does it

[cordes]

I have got to believe that if you took them to a machine shop they would be able to do it for you for a relatively reasonable price.

[zin]

If I were to provide the knuckles from a '91+ car (such as an R/T or GTC), is there anyone anywhere that could modify them to be used with L-body struts?

....really wanting 11" brakes on the front of my GLH Turbo. I already have the 11" brakes on the rear and I think having 11" on the front would balance it out much better than the 60mm KH calipers and 10" rotors it has on the front now.

Can someone refresh my memory as to what is required in the way of machining? Or point me to a link/thread that has this info? I'm getting ready to do the same thing.

Thanks!

Mike

[cordes]

the biggest issue is the slot where the strut fits around the knuckle is wider on the G body struts as is the corresponding part of the knuckle.

[travis_k]

Im pretty sure you can just put daytona struts on the front rather than modifying them to use the l-body struts.

[capev86]

it would be easier and more logical to modify a 91+ k frame to fit an L body. a competent welder/fabricator could do it just by cutting a chunk out of the middle of the k frame and welding it back together. the L bodies never got the nice dual pivot k frames, only the early stub strut type.

the only other way would be to using the knuckles from an 89 shelby daytona w/ the 11" brakes. the knuckle works with the older style steering geometry and has the caliper bracket integral, rather than a bolt on piece like the RT variant that came later!

[cordes]

it would be easier and more logical to modify a 91+ k frame to fit an L body. a competent welder/fabricator could do it just by cutting a chunk out of the middle of the k frame and welding it back together. the L bodies never got the nice dual pivot k frames, only the early stub strut type.

the only other way would be to using the knuckles from an 89 shelby daytona w/ the 11" brakes. the knuckle works with the older style steering geometry and has the caliper bracket integral, rather than a bolt on piece like the RT variant that came later!

I thought that the L-bodies don't bolt up quite the same way on the pass side so it is not as simple as cutting a couple inches out of the middle.

[Garret]

What I did when putting 11 inch R/T brakes on a Rampage was just grinded both sides of the strut mounting point and just ground more of a slot into the upper bolt hole to allow for more camber adjustment. However at near stock ride height the best I can do for camber is 0, when I drop it as low as the coilovers will go it goes to an acceptable positive camber

[iTurbo]

Would it be better to start off with a '91 knuckle with the bolt-on caliper adapter or the '89/'90 knuckle with the caliper adapter cast as part of the knuckle? My car has stamped a-arms and will be staying since I've already redone the bushings and POR-15'd them.

(EDIT) Nevermind, I just reread post #7.....looks like the '89/'90 knuckles would be best.

[rbryant]

Would it be better to start off with a '91 knuckle with the bolt-on caliper adapter or the '89/'90 knuckle with the caliper adapter cast as part of the knuckle? My car has stamped a-arms and will be staying since I've already redone the bushings and POR-15'd them.

(EDIT) Nevermind, I just reread post #7.....looks like the '89/'90 knuckles would be best.

I disagree that the 89/90 are best and think that the 91+ are better to use. The 91+ parts are more common, cheaper, etc.

The geometry is better when using the 91+ knuckles.

The reason that it is better is because it pushes the ball joint downward and gives better angles when lowering. That is the only relavant change and it is a good thing.

The only advantage I see on the 89/90 kuckles is that they weigh less than the 91+ knuckles.

-Rich

[DOHCRT]

I thought that the L-bodies don't bolt up quite the same way on the pass side so it is not as simple as cutting a couple inches out of the middle.

You are correct that it isn't as simple as removing a chunk out of the middle. The mounting points had to be reworked as well. When Rich offered the modified "K" members a few years ago I helped him with the logistics and Quality and it did require a bit more work that initially thought.

[AzShadow]

Here is my thread regarding this

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ion&highlight=



hahaha just noticed the OP date

[Turbo SOB]

I didn't know this was being discussed. I had done this to my Shelby Charger back in the early 2000s, and now my GLHS is set up with the 11+" brakes.

What I did was take the '91+ knuckles and machined 1 mm off of either side of the strut mount to fit the L-body strut. Then I had to grind quite a bit off of the inner side of the knuckle upright to allow it to snug itself up against the strut. Then, I machined a shim to fit in the lower strut mount bolt hole, to take up the slack of changing from the 12 mm '91+ bolt to the 10 mm L-body bolt (I think those are the sizes).

I wasn't worried about the lower ball joint dropping an inch, as I intended to install a 1" lowering setup. I never got around to it, LOL!

The rear was a no-questions bolt on. I just tweaked the brake line routing a bit. Even the e-brake cables worked (with a minor tweak).

I run a stock '91+ master cylinder (24mm?).

The Centurion II did fit, but were nailbightingly close. I literally couldn't squeeze my fingernail between the caliper and the rim, but they spun freely. I ran like that for months (daily driver) until I put the Fiberides on, which have more clearance. I'm not even joking or exaggerating a bit here. I don't think the 60mm caliper would have fit the Centurion II rims with new brake pads.