Steering coupler u-joint?

[Tony Hanna]

I'm into the Sundance to change a leaky waterpump, and decided to try to track down the source of an annoying popping noise in the steering while I'm at it.
Initially I thought it might be due to a loose inner tie rod, but John and I checked them awhile ago and they turned out to be fine. After listening to the noise from under the car, it seems to be coming from the area where the steering column connects to the rack, so I'm thinking it might be worthwhile to have a look at the u-joint.
If that turns out to be the problem, is it possible to replace it without dropping the crossmember? I'm guessing the roll pin on the rack side might be a pain to get out.
Also, can the u-joint itself be replaced or is the coupler sold as an assembly and where can I get a replacement (parts store or dealer)?
I'm basically trying to get an idea of what I'm getting myself into before I start so I can decide if this is something I want to tackle now or wait until I have the parts.
If it turns out that I have to drop the crossmember, I'll probably put it off until I have the money to replace the struts, wheel bearings, and get an alignment at the same time.
Thanks,
Tony

[TopDollar69]

Pull the steering column, its alot easier than dropping the K frame. Ive never tried driving the roll pin out with the rack in the car though, that might be another story.

[Tony Hanna]

Yeah, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not even entirely sure it's the u-joint, it's just next in my list of stuff to check. Whatever it is isn't loose enough to make the steering feel any different, it just pops as your turning the wheel one way and pops again when you turn it back. Nothing that affects drivability yet, just another thing on the list of annoying noises I want to fix.

[turbovanman²]

Yes, you can get the roll pin out of the rack with the rack not being dropped. Remove the steering column and bob's your uncle. Are you sure the popping noise isn't the upper strut bearings, or dry and worn ball joints?

[Speedeuphoria]

or the rack being loose and moving a little? but I dont think that would make that much noise

[Tony Hanna]

Yes, you can get the roll pin out of the rack with the rack not being dropped. Remove the steering column and bob's your uncle. Are you sure the popping noise isn't the upper strut bearings, or dry and worn ball joints?

Thanks Simon, that's what I needed to know.
I'm pretty sure it's not the strut bushings or the balljoints. The noise is coming from the wrong place. Listening to it from under the car, it's pretty easy to localize it to the area immediately around the rack. I'm guessing it's either the u-joint or the rack itself.
The rack was a little loose like Speedeuphoria suggested, but I sorted that out in the first few days after I got it on the road, so I'm pretty confident that's not it either.
I'm still curious to know if it turns out to be the u-joint, can I get a replacement or do I have to buy a complete coupler?
Thanks,

[turbovanman²]

I'm still curious to know if it turns out to be the u-joint, can I get a replacement or do I have to buy a complete coupler?
Thanks,

Well you have to buy the whole coupler, it doesn't come apart. I honestly don't know if you can buy them new but getting a good used one shouldn't be a problem. I have a few still in cars,

[Tony Hanna]

Well you have to buy the whole coupler, it doesn't come apart. I honestly don't know if you can buy them new but getting a good used one shouldn't be a problem. I have a few still in cars,

I was sort of hopeing you could buy a new u-joint and pop it in just like a drive shaft, but I guess that'd be too much to ask for...
Was that an offer to sell one? If so, I need to get the truck finished up so I can pull the Sundance back into the garage and make sure that's the issue. If it is, what would you want for one shipped to 25304?
Thanks,

[ShelGame]

You can't get a coupler new from Chrysler anymore. I have a contact in Mopar, he looked for me, and they don't exsist anymore.

I built a manual coupler for my race car using a hot rod part for the bottom and the stock coupler at the top. The bearings and cross-piece are standard Torrington parts (both Ford and Chrysler used them) that I bet you could get from a bearing house. If you're really careful, you can get the old bearings out and re-build the u-joint.

Here's the link to my post in the fab section, maybe you'll find it useful.

[Tony Hanna]

You can't get a coupler new from Chrysler anymore. I have a contact in Mopar, he looked for me, and they don't exsist anymore.

I built a manual coupler for my race car using a hot rod part for the bottom and the stock coupler at the top. The bearings and cross-piece are standard Torrington parts (both Ford and Chrysler used them) that I bet you could get from a bearing house. If you're really careful, you can get the old bearings out and re-build the u-joint.

Here's the link to my post in the fab section, maybe you'll find it useful.

That did help.
It's got me wondering how much modification would be involved in getting the upper portion of an aftermarket coupler to mate to the steering column. If it could be done safely with some minor fab work then that might be the solution I'm looking for.
Even if I had to weld it solid to the column it wouldn't be bad with a set screw to remove it from the rack. Besides, what are the chances that I'd have to replace it a second time over the life of the car?
Thanks,