Has anyone ever done a manual brake conversion to a TD? My Daytona C/S is race only, and I'd like to get that rusty old POS of a booster out of there. Is it just a matter of making an adapter plate, like the older RWD cars? How about the linkage?
Has anyone ever done a manual brake conversion to a TD? My Daytona C/S is race only, and I'd like to get that rusty old POS of a booster out of there. Is it just a matter of making an adapter plate, like the older RWD cars? How about the linkage?
I'm curious as well
why do it your only going to save a 1/2 of a pound
i would think you would WANT power brakes for racing...but thats just me.....
95 spirit 3.0/543 15.0@91 N/A, 14.5@96 on a 50 shot RIP 87 shelby Z - project car, maybe I can drive it this year 91 spirit - roll it, chop the top, do some burnouts! RIP
Why? Reduced engine bay clutter, eliminate a possible source for vacuum leaks, and especially less weight. The vacuum booster weighs considerably more than 1/2lb. More like 5lbs. I've got it out, I'll weigh it if you want to know for sure. I'm trying to get the Daytona down to ~2700lbs (minimum legal weight for the class) and it's at ~2800 now. 5lbs makes a difference.
EDIT: Actually, I checked again, min weight for the car (minus driver) is closer to 2600lbs considering the "ballast" this particular driver is carrying around. Car + driver needs to be 2810lbs, min.
Terry - I went ahead and pulled the parts and sketched up an adaptor plate. I can send you the sketch, if you want. Feel like producing a kit for sale? I'd be more than willing to test it for youIt looks like the MP master cyl pushrod kit for the RWD cars will work (might have to cut it down), so I bought one of those, as well as the 15/16" MP aluminum mater cylinder (it appears to have the same bolt pattern as the TD master cyl). Although, 15/16" is very close to the 24mm we already have. So, there's probably no advantage to using the MP master cyl. But, it was in a kit for about half the price from Mopar. I figure my father-in-law can use it in his Dart, worst case...
im so sorry i was so drunk last night i didnt even know i typed anything
I just saw a pictures of a GLH engine bay...
Do Omni's have manual brakes as standard? I didn't see a booster...
they have a booster, its almost all tucked under the cowl.
Clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
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That would explain why I couldn't see it...Originally Posted by Clay
I think you will need to make an adapter plate for the master cylinder.
Then you will need to have the correct length rod as well. There are adjustable ones available for older cars from places like Master Power Brakes (http://www.mpbrakes.com/chryacc.htm)
The issue will be selecting the right master cylinder for the right amount of pressure and fluid flow for the application.
Bigger bore, less pressure, more pedal travel.
smaller bore, more pressure, less pedal travel.
A lot of people do this. There are many advantages when running big HP engines that dont make lots of vacuum. The guys who are doing it are usually running BIG cars with BIGGER engines, and they dont have any issues. We run small cars with small BIG HP engines (sometimes) so it should be easier for us.
Basically, someone needs to make the adapter, and try some of these different master cylinders out and find which one works best for them.
Bigger disc brakes (SLH, etc) will probalby help a good bit as well with this conversion.
clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
SDML Readers Rides
C/S Registry
Stuff For Sale
The adaptor plate and pushrod - I have figured out. The MC size - not so sure yet. I think I'm going with the stock 24mm for now.
I think you have it backwards, though. A smaller bore MC will have a lower pedal force, and longer travel, than a bigger bore MC. What's the smallest MC ever used on a TD? 20mm? I might need to get one of those...
I was also reading that it's recommended to move the brake pushrod up on the pedal 1/2 - 1" to improve the force ratio. That doesn't look like a simple task on our pedals due to the location of the brake switch. So, I probably won't be changing that right away either.
Thanks for the info guys
Sure......you could send me a copy of your sketchTerry - I went ahead and pulled the parts and sketched up an adaptor plate. I can send you the sketch, if you want. Feel like producing a kit for sale? I'd be more than willing to test it for you
I might be able to have somebody knock a few adaptor plates out
Thanks!
Here's the sketch Terry...Sure......you could send me a copy of your sketch
I might be able to have somebody knock a few adaptor plates out
Thanks!
I've got a 1/2" ally plate in my garage. I'm going to make a prototype with the drill press. I'm just not sure how I'm going to cut the 1-1/2" hole, though. Like I said earlier, I think the MP pushrod for the V8 cars will work. I guess I'll find out when it gets here.
These measurements are based on my '89 Daytona. I'm not sure if different years/models would need different plates. L-bodies in particular...
hey Rob,
why are you drill/tapping the outside 4 holes on the adapter?
clay
1986 GLH-T - Flat black......... learn it, love it, LIVE IT!
1988 LeBaron GTC Turbo
SDML Readers Rides
C/S Registry
Stuff For Sale
I'd be interested in seeing how this turns out, and how well it brakes. I had considered doing the same thing when my daytona drag car was still a reality. I had did a little research and the honda guys have a pretty slick setup. The were using an aftermarket master cylinder, but if we can just find what size it is we could use a comparable stock unit.
The 4 outer holes are studs on the original booster (at least on my Daytona). I was going to put M6 studs into them and just use the original nuts on the inside of the car (brake pedal brkt). I guess they don't have to be tapped, but then you'd have to have a buddy hold the wrench in the engine bay while you crawl under the dash to tighten the nuts.
Is the Omni booster mounted different?
I thought I had read somewhere that the smallest MC the TD's used was 20mm. But I don't know for sure. I think a 20mm would work good. A 24mm (what most TD's came with stock) will give a pretty hard pedal, I think. If we could move the pushrod pin on the pedal up 1/2 or more, then the 24mm would be OK. But I don't see how that's possible. At least on my Daytona brake pedal...
The honda guys seem to be using a stock manual brake master from the civics and some integras. Might be an option to look into, but like your talking about Rob they are also using the manual brake pedal assembly, which I'm assuming moved the fulcrum point on the pedal. This would be an awesome change on an l-body, especially with the header I have in mind.
My 81 horizan had manual brakes.
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