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Thread: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

  1. #1
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    modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    So this is actually part of another project I'm doing. At any rate I thought I'd share this as it might help some people looking to do something similar....This is on a 3.0V6, but the same thing applies...expecially the fuel pump assembly.


    OK, here's the pictures. This is a 1990 fuel rail. All we really did was cut the FPR flange off. The rest was just drilling out the adapters until they fit on the tubes, then brazing them on. Keep in mind that I still have to paint this thing, so it looks pretty ugly right now! I also have to find some sort of protection for the stuff on the fuel pump assembly...




    We did the same thing to the supply coming out of the fuel pump assembly. The return was the tricky part because it comes out as 1/4". It would not be smart to try and step all the way up to 3/8". Besides...I'm going to need a good return! So, here's what we did! BTW, make sure to remove the pump wire harness connector from the pump assembly before attampting to braze! You will melt it if you don't. I was fortunate and remembered!

    #1: cut off return elbow coming off of pump assembly
    #2: drill out tube all the way through the hanger until 5/16" brake line fits through the holes.
    #3: swing pump housng down(catch spring!!!) and take what is left of the return line out
    #4: take apart return line check valve and remove check valve body from old line
    #5: drill check valve body out until it fits snuggly over 5/16" brake line(do not install yet!)
    #6: flare one end of 5/16" brake line
    #7: slide check valve body over 5/6" brake line until seated against flare
    #8: modify spring to fit over 5/16" brake line
    #9: install 5/16" brake line through bottom of pump housing, then spring, then hanger, then pump assembly
    #10: hold pump housing against spring with slight pressure for pretension while keeping check vale body seated against top of pump housing.
    #11: braze return line to hanger while holding step 10(2 people make this easier)
    #12: braze underside and topside of return line to pump assembly
    #13: braze on modified adapter
    #14: bend return line to desired angle.

    The results look like this!




    This is a picture of the guts of the return line check valve(minues the body since it is on the new return line) in the order they come out. The washer actually sits on top of the check valve body. I'm really not 100% sure why this is in there, but I didn't see a real need for it...the older cars I don't think ever had anything like that...



    This last picture just shows the leftover parts that can be disgarded.


  2. #2
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    Re: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    Looks good. I did the same thing to my Spirit R/T, which is now using all 3/8" aluminum fuel line and -6AN braided stainless lines for the flexible sections. I also had 3/8" steel tubes brazed into fuel pump sender.

    Here are some pictures of mine:

    http://www.turbododge.com/forums/sho...highlight=fuel

  3. #3
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    Also, my car has been running fine, and I also removed the spring (check valve?) thing in the fuel return inside the sending unit.

  4. #4
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    Re: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    That looks familier!!! I wish I'd seen that a few months ago! I would have done it then! I guess great minds think alike! Oh well...it's done now. You're looks a bit neater than mine, but I haven't "dressed" it at all either. I'm also running an MSD booster external pump too...I don't want to chance anything with the amount of nitros this thing huffs!

  5. #5
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    Thanks, so far the brazing has held up well. I haven't had very good luck brazing the fuel rail though, so I just bought one of the vendors aftermarket rails for TIII. The OEM fuel rail on my Shelby Lancer used to crack and I would have it brazed shut but engine vibration would always make it crack again.

    What is that big metal piece in your last picture? My car didn't have that. Did you flare the end of the fuel return so it would stop against the reservoir lid? That's what I did and it worked great. I was able to keep the spring this way and the reservoir is spring loaded slightly against the bottom of the tank just like stock. To adapt the steel 3/8" line to AN, I used Summit AN compression fittings that use a brass ferrule. I decided to use these instead of tube nuts and sleeves because the steel line is kinda hard to get a good flare on.

  6. #6
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    Re: modding for -6AN @ fuel pump!

    This mod was done to a 3.0 fuel rail...the big peice is the FPR flange.

    I used the check valve body to hold the spring like stock. I pressed the tube through that and flared it so it wouldn't pull through the check valve body...In essence the same thing you did.
    Last edited by Reaper1; 12-25-2006 at 04:51 PM. Reason: more info

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