Agreed. I took over 1/2 lb just out of the timing belt gear on the crank. :)
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Type: Posts; User: GLHNSLHT2; Keyword(s):
Agreed. I took over 1/2 lb just out of the timing belt gear on the crank. :)
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wow, with my Die-hard lawn tractor battery I could go out at lunch and roll the windows all the way down, then back up after and down again after work before starting the car. The only time it died...
Why 2 ports on the BOV that essentially do the same thing?? I'm not following there. :confused:
You are flowing a lot more air than a stock 2.5 which is what that table is based on. It's also dependant a lot on what intake manifold is on the car. I looked a long time ago at the 87 vs 88 T2...
The WG hole on my S60 housing was opened up to 1.25" since the TU 3" SV had a 1.375" flapper. I never had any issue with the flapper being pushed open with the stock big can actuator.
If you pump...
with the WG flapping in the breeze it shouldn't spin a significant amount of rpm more than if you had the pipes hooked up. It overspins a lot if you have the WG shut and the pipes disconnected...
When I tune the PEFTBL with a turbo that will creep I let the flapper flap in the breeze, and then just take off the i/c pipe to the TB. 1 or 2 runs should be fine and not hurt anything. This get's...
That's lower than the trans temp in my 15 Jeep GC with the 3.6 8spd so you're probably doing something right.
no that's a Lengel Plenum on a 2 piece.
PT lifters make these cars run so quiet.
mmmm GT30R. Are you using the stock exhaust manny or a TU piece?
Not to take away from simon but that ATP SV does a huge amount for turbo efficiency vs the stock style SV. Friend is running one on his mostly stock 2.5 with a T2 garrett. Even after porting the WG...
Probably running hot because the CB pump is the one that cavitates at freeway speeds. By shaving 3 fins off it shouldn't cavitate as much.
Run it, you'll be fine. It's not that hard to change...
yea not sure what pump Ed was referring to when doing it. I think you'll be fine. For all I know Ed was referring to the CB pumps since they've been said to cavitate anyway. I didn't know they were...
hmmm, you're going to be a bit of a guinea pig. I spaced the fact that I did mine on a non-commonblock water pump. Didn't realize the CB pump looked so different. Never seen one apart. I think you'll...
I do but not online anymore. Yes I just took and angle grinder and carefully ground the blade that stuck up down flush with the main wheel. Then cleaned up the burrs. Car is fine in the 105 degree...
I run the ported early water pump on my 2.5 with the 3 shaved fins, also have a UDP on it. Never had cooling issues. With that setup and the aluminum flywheel the starter turns the car over so fast...
good work on the water pump. Think it's on The dodge garage but somewhere back in the day it was also recommended to shave 3 fins off the water pump itself. I ported my housing (the non-CB pumps...
A dual ball bearing turbo on Mean Mini!?!? How Sacreligous!!!!!! That's way too much bling under the hood for her! :)
a 10" long 1/2 drive extension is plenty long to push the stock valve springs down with one hand and pull the rockers out with the other by carefully prying between the cam lobes.
I slowly work around all the bolts on the cam loosening the tightest ones just a bit as the valves push up on the lobes different and you want to have the cam lift up without bending.
I usually only go Mopar with that seal. It's an Automatic right? Just pull the engine IMO. Then you can inspect the seal and the oil galley plug.
http://youtu.be/KLxh4pN8-EE
That's a pretty serious leak. If you can get the lower inspection cover off the trans, and put something up to direct the oil away from just dripping straight down...
it can happen to anyone, my rear main seal retainer was cracked and I couldn't see it. allowed the seal to spin with the crank and leak. That sucked to have to pull the engine again. I always loctite...
I don't know what to say about under the hood of that car. Gus went damn fast in it I know but but I just don't know.