Anymore info on this? Thanks.
Type: Posts; User: turbovanmanČ; Keyword(s):
Anymore info on this? Thanks.
Pretty cool, I like the closed loop learning feature at WOT. :) Depending on price, I'd like one for my TIII van.
Can't be done, pull the head.
LOL,. eh! Maybe in a few years, my son will be driving, SCREAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, and he won't want to be around his dad anymore, :(
Only a few have built them, I'd call mine a success, if I would stop meddling with it, :p
Yep, I bought one to build a killer 8 valve and well, the van got crushed. Its complete, he just went crazy with the die grinder. I paid $80. Yours for the same amount, I even have a custom plenum.
I'd go with the 58mm, I had one bored out, one stock, didn't notice a difference, but that was auto.
Awesome, glad to see someone is working on their stuff, mine is still sitting. Good news is, Pantina is getting really good now, lol.
What?????? :(
Just hit me up at work or www.******auto@telus.net"
The stars being simons.
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They are still being made, the length got messsed up, you were going to send me some OE's...
LOL, :clap:
Ok, so to run an SMEC 2.5 TIII, you need few things.
TIII cam gears/idlers/powersteering bracket and pump, passenger mount bracket or you have to clearance the 8 valve one as it hits the cam...
Bump, heheehehhee! :lol:
Cool beans.
Well you should know, you're pretty close, :hail::bolt::rockon::partywoot: :nod:
Updates? My vote is detonation unless the top of the piston edge's are melted. I cracked a few cast like that before going forged, then I broke everything else, :banghead: You are also burning a lot...
That is incorrect, it all depends on how much is left of the base circle. I ran PT's with a stage 2 cam many years ago, but it was close as the oil hole was just below the top of the bore.
No doubt, I was lucky to get 17/18 with my low stall, when I want high stall, 13/14 mpg was the best I could get. :(
If you do use it, the compression would be much higher, probably around 10:1 with the TIII pistons and 8 valve head.
I'd go with the swirl head. The casting number is around the thermostat area and ends in 782. Any other head will be the old school G head, and that debate would start a war, lol.
How did it work out?
What I did was leave the rear alone, use A404 steels and A413 steels in the front clutch to get a nice tight drum, and use the rear clutch snap ring. Never killed a clutch on my van in all the years...
Because if you hook up the wrong one to the factory computer, BOOM!
If you choose to go your route, then that's ok, just know what you have, so that's really the point of the story, :p
Just use a 2.2 cast crank, plenty strong and lighter, so added bonus.
I have one but shipping, yikes.
I have it all off an R/T but shipping won't be cheap, :(