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If you search 'FMU' on ebay you can find a bunch for around $100.

Since you are running Megasquirt on this, could you run just an AFPR? Possibly set for just one pressure?

Right now they are 10% off and the price includes shipping (so $143, shipped). Strangely, the 4 and 6 puck clutches are cheaper...

I would think Clutchnet has the cheapest, but I ordered a unspring 6-puck and received a sprung 6-puck... So you may or may not get a unsprung...

I read that as "While the clutch is still functional, I can't justify replacing it..."

The problem with using a UDP is the distance from the pulley to the gauge bracket... Makes it difficult to set it accurately. So I have always swapped between the two.

My Spirit has been running with a base pressure of ~20 psi and didn't have any problems even in the heat of summer... If you think it is vapor lock, try feeling the fuel rails. I bet you will find...

When I looked at them, it looked like the tip would roll off and the nose of the rocker would hit.

Kreel is running them on the +3/+3 heads I did for him. He had a custom cam made by Crower. I don't know the full spec, but he took the base circle way smaller.

I would only use something like that only for head on engine work. For head off work, you want something like this:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/pro-66832_cp.jpg

In the MS documentation they cover how to fix the wiring if the AIS is not responding correctly. Initially mine was moving backwards and I had to switch two wires...

I believe the switch conducts when the clutch is in. The harnesses come with a jumper taped in for the auto cars.

Well, that's how I had mine done... We redid it and I am not sure we noticed any improvement...

The research I have done indicates angle doesn't make a huge difference. The strongest vacuum comes from putting it into the header merge. Sadly 4-1 merge have more room for a pipe in the middle...

Brent is talking about using the tool and referencing the pressure plate fingers to eye ball centerness... Not perfect but better than nothing.

I would say, weld it yourself. If the weld is leaky (or potentially leaky) seal it with some JB weld similar epoxy.)

To check timing you are better off not having the belt on, just the stock pulley...

Ed Kelly - www.kmperformance.com

Reroute what you can. Use a thermal barrier like I mentioned where you can't. They make a version that velcros on for things like wiring harnesses.

I have used some on a coolant hose that runs...

I relocated them out of the way as much as possible and then sleeved them with a thermal barrier like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14010/ in areas that they were close to exhaust...

Brent's is different from how I do them now. His is bolted to the transmission with flexs to the manifold.

To get the cost down I now take a stock crossover mount and reuse the flanges and flex...

The JB can hold up, but you surface prep needs to be very good. ie. get rid of all the corrision, then clean the surface with brake cleaner (I prefer the stuff that has acetone in it.)

For...