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I just followed the diagram. http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/lm-1987-t2.html

Blue connector pin #3 for a/c cut out relay. This means ECU can disengage A/C like it WOT condition or if engine coolant...

As far as I know, all MS require a separate wideband controller, same as require a knock controller for a knock sensor.

Megalog Viewer is awesome.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/2017/microsquirt/megalog.jpg

Yes, play in hole can throw off a few degree of timing, but there is no need to key it, I can check ignition timing with a timing gun and then adjust base timing within Tuner Studio...

Fully welded and balanced.

:)

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/2017/crankpulley/IMG_20171007_062550926.jpg
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My Microsquirt total cost and break down is listed in the first page, $1226. Only cost not included is cost of welding the crank sensor bracket. Bracket is made with some 1/4 inch metal welded to a...

I would agree with stock software is really well written, way ahead of its time. While sounds good in theory, I don't see it ever happening in practice with someone making a updated "stock" computer....

I just did emission and the car runs cleaner than it ever did on stock computer. I will definitely pick up more MPG as I can set cruising at 16:1 vs stock 13.7-14.1:1 ratio. I noticed when I set...

RPM signal got distorted over 2400rpm, a friend suggest to check the air gap between the crank sensor and the wheel, it was between 2-3mm. Adjust it to .5mm and RPM signal is now fine. :)

Hobbs pressure switch that activates at 0psi to open the solenoid to allow blowby to go from valve cover to pre-turbo pipe.

No, boost is controlled by my HDi Electronic boost controller and the MAC solenoid valve.

Had to design a beefier new crank sensor bracket.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/2017/microsquirt/enginebay/IMG_20170917_182536492.jpg
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Microsquirt and Qaudspark at stock LM location.

http://www.thelostartof.net/tryingbe/dodge/omniproject/2017/microsquirt/msspark.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20160912225825/http://www.turbododge.info/22manual/Chrysler_2.2_2.5_MegaSquirt_Manual/Chrysler_2.2_2.5_mode_on_the_MegaSquirt.html

I'm happy to get rid of the HEP...

No, the turbo HEP doesn't work, coding is wrong. The n/a HEP might, but why keep the hep and distributor? It's a perfect time to get rid of them both.

I remember spending days to figure out why the alternator wouldn't charge. It turned out to be a pin not making good contact inside the LM plug to the LM, that was the first week of owning the car....

I don't remember. You can go get one here. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/

I'm still at only idling the car, can't take it anywhere yet.

Why can't...

I burnt those chips and used ostrich, made 290WHP with it too. But let me ask you this, when the 32 year old wiring and computers give out and you want to keep the car, what would you do? Put another...

My hazard has never worked since I bought the car over 10 years ago. While I was adding fuse boxes for Microsquirt, I figured out why. The wire is corroded at least 10 inch inside the insulation...

I was experiencing electrical issue with my car and decided it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot the 32 year old computers or wiring. Wanting to keep the car, aftermarket ECU is the only option...