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I just used the 95-99 Neon rotors on a 93 Daytona rear disc setup. I will add one more piece to the puzzle too. If you want 36mm calipers that bolt up to the old G,P, etc. brackets, you can use the caliper from a 2005 Neon SRT4. They bolt right up, and you have more options for pads than the old calipers.
I disagree that the SRT4 offers more pad options. It can't because they use the same pads! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris65
The neon and SRT4 pads are the same as the 89+ (vented and non vented) rear pads as well as intrepids regardless of the calipers.
1G neon rear calipers calipers are the same as the 89 non vented rear calipers. (34mm)
The intrepid/300m used basically the same caliper except it had a 36mm bore.
2G neon rear calipers are basically the same as 1G Neon calipers but use M10 banjo bolts
Similarly SRT4s basically use the Intrepid caliper with M10 banjo bolts.
Rear Brake Options KC Article Link
Semi Complete Rear Disc Pad interchange List (from rockauto):
CHRYSLER 300M (1999 - 2004)
CHRYSLER CIRRUS (1995 - 2000)
CHRYSLER CONCORDE (1993 - 2004)
CHRYSLER DAYTONA 1989
CHRYSLER IMPERIAL (1991 - 1993)
CHRYSLER INTREPID (1993 - 1996)
CHRYSLER LEBARON (1989 - 1995)
CHRYSLER LHS (1994 - 2001)
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1991 - 1996)
CHRYSLER PT CRUISER (2001 - 2010)
CHRYSLER SEBRING (1996 - 2006)
DODGE DAYTONA (1989 - 1993)
DODGE DYNASTY (1991 - 1993)
DODGE INTREPID (1993 - 2004)
DODGE NEON (1995 - 2005)
DODGE SHADOW (1989 - 1994)
DODGE SPIRIT (1990 - 1995)
DODGE STRATUS (1995 - 2006)
EAGLE VISION (1993 - 1997)
PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM (1991 - 1995)
PLYMOUTH BREEZE (1996 - 2000)
PLYMOUTH NEON (1995 - 2001)
PLYMOUTH SUNDANCE (1989 - 1994)
-Rich
Looks like you are right in this case. I see Wagner lists different pads for the older cars, but they do look the same. As far as Rock Auto, I won't use their site anymore since I tried to get steel pistons for the SRT4 calipers, and THREE times they sent the wrond part number. In the end, the "tech" person said I was ordering the wrong pistons and they were for steel wheels as opposed to phenolic wheels. Yes, she said phenolic wheels. :banghead::banghead:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...27t+big+enough.
Thread for my big brake fronts.
Wish I was racing the Shadow at Gingerman, I joined forces with another local team and we built a stupid e30 for chump car and running Road America in April.
Just a little advice: if you don't already have an oil cooler, get one. An accusump is worth the penalty laps. 2.2/2.5/3.0 - they are all notorious for blowing up in spectacular fashion.
boo! Chumpcar
boo! E30
Our team did the Chumpcar demo derby at Nelson's Ledge in 2011. It was a pretty brutal experience. After five previous races in Lemons, we made contact with another car only TWICE. Within the first two hours of Nelson's Ledge, we were hit THREE times with one of our most conservative drivers behind the wheel. Granted, Nelson's is a tough track to begin with, but the battle for 48th place just doesn't seem as important in Lemons as it apparently was in Chump.
We did score an oil cooler that suspiciously looks identical to a 2014 Corvette Stingray's cooler after dumpster diving near the durability lab at the GM tech center. :D
No accusump though. :( Hopefully we can squeeze it in for the next race. It's definitely on the short list.
I'm bummed that you won't have the Shadow at Gingerman. I was looking forward to seeing out there. Good luck with Chump.
I hear ya! I was just sick of doing all the work, paying all the bills, and hunting down drivers to squeeze money out of them. So when the opportunity came to have 3 other guys help out I jumped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayley
I will have the shadow at Autobahn, can wait!
It seems most racing teams generally consist of 1 or 2 guys doing 95% of the work. I got pretty lucky with this recent build and found a great team. One guy installed the cage, two other guys did all the suspension and brake work, I rebuilt the powertrain and the car owner paid for it all. :)
While I'm technically "captain" of this project, the car actually belongs to someone else. This has been a good thing all around because it forced me to a (slightly) higher standard since I'm responsible for someone else's money. If it was my project: "Seized front caliper? Just clamp off the rubber line with a vice grip and tie the pliers to the strut tower...."